First tweed jacket

[kolecho]

I bought my first length of tweed in London a couple of days back. It is a dark brown 16oz Harris tweed. After spending some time comparing variuos types of tweed (Shetland, Donegal, Homespun, Harris etc), I was surprised to find how porous some tweeds are. More to learn, obviously.

I am now contemplating my first bespoke tweed jacket that I will use when travelling to cooler climate. I am thinking of the following details:
- Single breast
- Spalla camicia
- 3 button, 2.5 roll
- Welted breast pocket, patch hip pockets
- Double vents
- 4 sleeve buttons

What do you think of the above?

In addition, I have some questions:
- Is it a good idea to have it cut a tad larger so that it fits well over a sweater?
- What kind of seam details are typical for tweed? On the lapel, shoulder seam, coat hem etc?

Thanks in advance.

[Wakefield]

Kolecho

The details and style you listed sound very nice.

Addressing your questions in reverse order, I think a variety of seam options are appropriate (including swelled or double stitched) but I tend to go with plain as I think there can be a danger of 'detail overload' on a jacket like this.

On the size issue, I would say no to incorporating extra room. I tend to go for a more structured style than the one you are suggesting but my last tweed jacket was cut slightly roomier than normal with this idea in mind. I now think this was a mistake as I never wear anything under it apart from a waistcoat since it has never been cold enough for me to do so (and I live in Yorkshire and it can get a bit parky, as we say in these parts!).

Regards

G A H

[sam]

I would recommend that you do allow a little extra fullness in the jacket to accommodate a sweater underneath. Tweed jackets with a sweater is a natural and classic combination. Since you will be using this for cooler weather, it will be nice to have the option of layering a sweater underneath if you so choose. I could not see myself wearing a heavy tweed jacket without some type of sweater or thick shirting underneath. To me, a standard dress shirt would look odd underneath a heavy tweed jacket that seems to naturally call for more layers. I would also recommend getting leather buttons instead of horn buttons. I like the details you've chosen. Good luck.

[BenedictSpinola]

I would ditch the patch pockets.

[kolecho]

I have been observing some tweed jackets in NYC this past couple of days. At Bergdorf, all the tweed jackets are lightweight - no more than 12oz I think. When I asked them for heavier tweed, like Harris tweed, the sales guys said the "professorial tweed look" is out

I saw a gentleman with a heavier Donegal tweed jacket yesterday. The vertical back seam and shoulder seams are pronounced. Unlike the ones on a suit jacket, these seams formed a bump along the seam. The lapels and collar had pronounced stitching, about one third to one half inch from the edges. These details made the jacket look quite rustic.

All had flapped besom hip pockets. However, I am still quite keen on patch pockets like those on Iammatt's tweed jacket.

[the tailor]

Clothing is about you.
Have what you fancy.
I am hoping to make myself a new overcoat during the christmas holidays and a donegal tweed jacket, I think, they are a classic and versatile.
The cloth is also as easy as pie to make.