Italian RTW / MTM

[kirsch]

Could anyone share their comments about Canali or Corneliani with me?

I know these are not bespoke or "top of the line" (at least price-wise) suits, but I often hear that spending on a Brioni RTW is pointless when one could get bespoke elsewhere for the same price.

So how about these two?

thanks,
chris

[falke]

The tailoring of either Canali or Corneliani is definitely not as good as Brioni. If you want M2M Italian suits or jackets, a better value is to go with Belvest or Ravazzolo. They are less expensive and every bit as good as Brioni. But beyond tailoring, you should first consider which one fits you best. Remember M2M is based on an existing pattern, so you need to determine which brand is a better fit for you. Here is the difficult part: finding somebody who is knowledgeable enough to give you an honest opinion. Unless you can find a retailer who you can trust and work with, I would seriously consider bespoke tailoring rather than M2M.

Falke

[Chris Rimby]

If you want to figure out which RTW brands you might like the only thing to do is to try them on in person. Even if something is considered higher quality doesn't mean it will fit you right.

It's funny seeing you ask all of these questions because I've been asking many of the same.

I've purchased a no-name off the rack suit and then had it altered. I've paid $1400 for a Samuelsohn MTM. I've ordered an Isaia suit and sportcoat through discount sites on the internet.

While the Isaia pieces fit and look alright, I haven't even gotten close to what I'm after yet. It's become clear to me now that the balance and proportion of a perfectly fitted garment can only be had through bespoke. If you're not ready to go there yet the only thing to do is to try on LOTS of different pieces from a bunch of different makers.

The only problem with going with a RTW is that usually by the time you find a good one you could've commissioned at least a high-level MTM from someone like Kilgour or Desmond Merrion.

[JMurphy]

While the Isaia pieces fit and look alright, I haven't even gotten close to what I'm after yet. It's become clear to me now that the balance and proportion of a perfectly fitted garment can only be had through bespoke.

I dunno, Chris. This is interesting to me...I've been watching your posts as you seem to be on a 'quest' much like I am. To be honest, I love the Isaia stuff I've bought. Now, one thing that could be an issue is our body types. Isaia offdapeg may fit my body better than it does yours.... (it seems like I see a lot of talk flung around about how clothes should fit without taking into consideration the vast differences in body types out there--I'm not suggesting you're doing that) but the jackets fit me nearly perfectly with only the sleeves needing adjustment. At least to my taste and sophistication I am vy satisfied with Isaia. I have a couple Belvest jackets that are similar but leaner which don't fit quite as well. Alden, RJ or Manton could probably pick apart the fit of my rtw but I like it and even at full-boat retail the price seems worth it to me---and I rarely pay full-boat. At a discount the stuff seems a steal. But the 'gain' in fit for full-on bespoke----well, I need to raise my level of sophistication to 'get' it. Maybe someday.

Just rambling on a cold Seattle night.

[JamesT1]

Just rambling on a cold Seattle night.

Are you snowed in at the moment?

[Chris Rimby]

While the Isaia pieces fit and look alright, I haven't even gotten close to what I'm after yet. It's become clear to me now that the balance and proportion of a perfectly fitted garment can only be had through bespoke.

I dunno, Chris. This is interesting to me...I've been watching your posts as you seem to be on a 'quest' much like I am. To be honest, I love the Isaia stuff I've bought. Now, one thing that could be an issue is our body types. Isaia offdapeg may fit my body better than it does yours.... (it seems like I see a lot of talk flung around about how clothes should fit without taking into consideration the vast differences in body types out there--I'm not suggesting you're doing that) but the jackets fit me nearly perfectly with only the sleeves needing adjustment. At least to my taste and sophistication I am vy satisfied with Isaia. I have a couple Belvest jackets that are similar but leaner which don't fit quite as well. Alden, RJ or Manton could probably pick apart the fit of my rtw but I like it and even at full-boat retail the price seems worth it to me---and I rarely pay full-boat. At a discount the stuff seems a steal. But the 'gain' in fit for full-on bespoke----well, I need to raise my level of sophistication to 'get' it. Maybe someday.

Just rambling on a cold Seattle night.

I'm definitely only speaking of Isaia and anything else I mention in terms of how it fits me and only me. I have no opinion on how things should fit other people.

The two Isaia coats I have both provide a decent fit. The glaring difference comes when I raise my arms....it's like I all of a sudden have bat wings. One of the things I do in my suits and coats is play guitar and sing in front of an audience. My arms are constantly raised and the ill effects of a rtw armhole are always visible. I hate it. Another thing is that most rtw coats button too high for my liking. Makes the stomach look more pronounced than in should to my eyes. And lastly, I hate belts. Most of the Isaia trousers I've seen have belt loops. I like plain waistbands.

All these reasons made going bespoke an easy decision for me.