Tweed jacket

[kolecho]

I am looking into a tweed jacket project. Given where I live, even the lightest tweed of around 15-16oz is a struggle to wear, but I do travel quite a bit so it will get more use that way. I have some questions that I would appreciate advice on:

- Are there tweed books or brands that I should look into? I only know of Harris tweed.
- I am in London in a week. Where should I look for tweed there? W Bill?
- Construction: Given the weight of 16oz, is canvassing necessary? Could I get away with light flax (no horsehair)? Self lining is out due to the weight. What other lining options do I have to stay cool?

Thanks in advance.

[uppercase]

I had exactly the same problem: I love tweed but lived in a hot climate.

Solution: find the lightest weight tweed available and line it minimally.

It will still be too hot and impractical for a hot/humid climate but still, a 9 oz. tweed is better for your needs than a 14 oz. tweed.

The only place that I found lightweight tweed was at AS which they carry exclusively.

Walk in and ask to see their lightweight house tweed and if it at all appeals to you, then you've found your solution. Ofcourse, you would also need to have it tailored by AS.

But remember, it's still going to be too hot to wear in warm/ hot, humid climates; it's still tweed, still insulating and still warm.

You really need to wear it in cool, Autumn weather; I would say no hotter than 50F, IMO.

But what's nice about the AS tweed, if you like the colors andpatterns ,is that it has quite an open weave, permitting some breeze to get through. Hold it up to the light and you will see what I mean.

[the tailor]

The Neapolitan shouldered tweed jacket I made myelf for my recent tailoring visit to New York is 20/22oz.
It is beautiful to wear, with a very open weave keeping me cool or warm.
The weave of fabric can have a massive effect as to how a garment retains or releases heat, not just the weight of the cloth

[DD MacDonald]

The Tailor is spot on in referring any of us to look a the structure versus the weight of the cloth. One thing that you might look at is the Hardy Worsted Alsport bunch from Minnis. They are all basically 12 oz facimilies of the heartier tweeds with some decent designs. Some will find this a bastardization some will find this a perfection. To add my own two cents to the weight debate, I am a real fan of the heavier cloth because of their guts but I have bought and enjoy suits at all weights from 7-8 oz upwards.

Choose your horses for the courses!

DDM

[kolecho]

Where could I see some porous tweed in London, besides A&S?

[luk-cha]

would there be any special names for a porous weave tweed? also whay sort of weight would it be!