Oxxford factory visit
I recently visited the Oxxford factory in Chicago, a few thoughts and pictures from the visit.
Mike Cohen, the company CEO loves what he is doing, he loves the company and it shows. He holds a piece of Cashmere and speaks of the cloth with a love that can’t be faked. And while business is still business, “this is where business meets art” is Mike’s take on Oxxford.
Oxxford occupies a building that is about 100 years old, although not the first home of Oxxford, the location and style of building fits the company well.
It has a really old school factory feel. There are very few modern machines to be found on the production floor (one is the exact count of modern machines) but the clanking and noise of a large factory is surprisingly absent, as we walk the cutter’s tables, the radio plays softly and the talk is minimal, it has the feel of a smaller shop that it is. The long cutter’s tables are laid out with one cutter per side and as the patterns are laid down, care is taken to cut in one direction, costing Oxxford extra fabric yardage but giving, as Cohen describes, the perfect flow and look regardless of how the light may reflect on the fabric.
On the few visits I have had to the Oxxford store in New York, the bulk of the work shown was in 100s and 120s. The fabric room is not stocked to the same degree as the vault at Kiton and I wonder about the finer fabrics but Cohen explains how the full gamut is there and available depending on tastes, he expresses a liking for heavier wools and tweeds, Scott Ruerup is drawn to the finer wools and cashmeres. Ruerup is a tall slender, good looking high energy man with what appears at first glance to a be sleek sheek preferences, not the over the top fashion nature, but refined sleek.
Later when flipping through books, there are some gorgeous fabrics to be found, one cashmere jacket just jumps out, I ask who was behind the fabric buy, Cohen credits Ruerup for the choice. Cohen checks the books, the fabrics is sold out.
Cohen knows every worker in the shop, the staff numbers 250 including office staff, as we walk from station to station he says hello to each, by name. The workers are proud of what they are doing, and while some were shy, they we all happy that someone shows so much interest in their work.
A slow walk through production reveals many sewing machines, mostly old time Singers that fit the style of the shop well. The hand made discussion begins here, why machines on this seam and hand sewn on that seam?
Cohen flips a jacket inside and goes over every stitch of the lining, highlighting what has been done by hand and what has been done with a machine and why.
Cohen echoes some of the comments Manton has made many times. What adds value to the suit? What stitch makes the suit a better suit?
The liner is divided, with the two long seams done by machine, the vents, pockets, arm holes collar and all the finer work done by hand.
Has the choice be made to cut a corner?
No, the labour has been shifted into other directions, directions where Oxxford sees tangable gains that transfer to the client.
One woman is charged with the task of treating all the silk thread before it is given to a tailor. Slowly, working with small batches, one color at a time, she conditions the thread to remove excess wax, this step, says Cohen, makes the thread handle better for the tailors to perform finer, cleaner stitching.
Another reinforces the corners of the jacket pockets in a manner that allows them to be stronger and never tear or sag when and if you decide to play Prince Charles and place your hand in your jacket pocket or heavily load it with blackberries and the like. The bellows pocket which requires extra time and extra fabric.
Master tailors float around between seamstresses checking and helping as they go, some seamstresses, as happened twice during my visit, will call the master tailors to their station, and together go over a point before sewing. These requests generally come up from special orders that venture farther from the standard suit body styles.
But the single most important item I want to see and discuss is the hand sewn lapels and why. Without revelling what I was shown in other factories, I explain the point of view taken by others and presented to me for a machine sewn lapel. Cohen clearly disagrees and calls over a master tailor. It can take over 1.5 man hours to pad a lapel, where a machine can perform the task in 30 seconds. The tailor explains the way the lapel is rolled and held as it is stitched. A jacket is help up and the natural roll is beautiful. Cohen flicks the lapel in different directions and it returns to its form every time, Cohen smiles wide, this pleases him!
This challenges much of what I have seen and been told by others. Given the estimated time to produce a suit, almost 10 percent of the work is being placed into the lapels. The man hours that go into an Oxxford are almost identical to those of a Kiton, about 24 man hours, the production run is just a few thousand pieces larger than Kiton’s at an estimated 20,000 units per year.
I ask about the sales network, Made in the USA,
sold in the USA. Only once has Oxxford ventured into Europe for a short stint. They are currently establishing a relationship with one shop in London and would like to place itself in Canada in the near future. But Cohen says they can not grow the company by leaps and bounds, perhaps 15 to 20 percent at the very most.
Later as we end our visit, I try on a few jackets, most notably, the Mason. This is what I have come to see, the cut some say will draw the younger audience. This was the first Oxxford I have tried on that I could like, really like. It is soft and light, this jacket is a beautiful cashmere fabric that rivals just about anything. I switch to the Radcliffe, I just can’t live with the shoulder structure of the Radcliffe, back to the Mason. This is not my father’s suit. This is my suit!
It is a very young team that is driving Oxxford, most of the top row management I met where 40 or less. Cohen himself is just 40 and the youngest to head Oxxford. If they are driving towards reeling in the 40 year old buyer, they are on the right path with this team and the Mason. I am handed another jacket, 1/4 lined and even lighter than the Mason. It is very nice, but the shoulders are not quite right yet, and I go back to the Mason for the fourth or fifth try. A three button rolled to two, I ask about the button stance and the roll, of all the jackets I have tried, I find one of my Borrelli 3 to 2 rolls to be the perfect roll for my size and shape, the Oxxford rolls further down by an inch or so, but this jacket is gorgeous just the same.
Conclusions:
One can not sugar coat the fact that there are more sewing machines on the floor of Oxxford than Kiton. But Oxxford takes many other steps that Kiton does not. I come to the conclusion that I can not compare the two, they are different beast in different classes and each are doing what they do well, very well.
The fabric room at Kiton is far more impressive to stand before, filled with stunning cloth. But Oxxford seems to have every fabric one could wish for too.
The cashmere swatch books I flipped through did not leave you feeling empty.
I ask Cohen who is Oxxford’s closest competitor, he ponders the question and I wait to hear Kiton, but I don’t. Brioni is our closest competitor he says with hesitation. Today’s shopper is more likely to have visited new stores and tried new things and have order or researched on the internet than at any time in the past he says. A Brioni shopper is more likely to consider and Oxxford than day a Zegna shopper or a Kiton shopper. Cohen makes it clear that he knows and sees the buyers and staff of the top houses and it being the small world that it is, everyone gets along well.
I am not a retailer and the dynamic of the retail environment is tough one, but I certainly don’t see the line between the two as being that close, Oxxford falls below Brioni cost, and given the feel, fabric and fit of the Mason I have just tried on, Oxxford would get the nod hands down.
Lapel Roll,
I think by anyone’s standards,
that is really beautiful roll.
Mike and Rocco debate a custom order.
As we wlaked the shop floor, this jacket caught Mike’s eye and he pulled it from a pile to inspect it. Mike is hands on, for a CEO to be able to walk through the shop and pick out a client special order from a pile, and know the order by name is rather hands on!
Mike Cohen:
Pick stitching:
Hand sewing the lining:
Explaining the work behind the roll:
The hand sewing of a lapel:
The chain link stitching in the shoulder that provides the flexibility in the shoulder area. Laborious and hand sewn.
Collar being readied:
The collar is designed and sewn to have a natural spring that helps keep the collar flat against the suit body. This is done by holding the collar piece in a certain manner while stitching by hand.
Rocco explians the Oxxford view of how a shoulder should be shaped:
The cutter cuts "one way" to ensure a better flow of the suit. Cohen explained how the light reactsto and reflects from different materials in different ways, even though it costs Oxxford extra fabric, they continue to cut one way.
Shears:
Some of the shears are older than I am.
And the tailors are very clear that they love their shears dearly. Note the padding to protect the hand when cutting.
Master Tailors:
The jacket being sewn is a special order. I did not ask what modifications were requested,
but they were substantial enough that the seamstress checked with the master tailor before sewing.
The tailor went over not only what was to be done, but how best to do it.
Threaded needles ready for a morning of work:
Mike Cohen and pant shop manager Stephane (spelling?) show some of the small hand performed steps that make a big difference. In this case, it is the preparation of the waist band before sewing the pant together with a technique that goes back longer than anyone can remember.
Mike Cohen, the company CEO loves what he is doing, he loves the company and it shows. He holds a piece of Cashmere and speaks of the cloth with a love that can’t be faked. And while business is still business, “this is where business meets art” is Mike’s take on Oxxford.
Oxxford occupies a building that is about 100 years old, although not the first home of Oxxford, the location and style of building fits the company well.
It has a really old school factory feel. There are very few modern machines to be found on the production floor (one is the exact count of modern machines) but the clanking and noise of a large factory is surprisingly absent, as we walk the cutter’s tables, the radio plays softly and the talk is minimal, it has the feel of a smaller shop that it is. The long cutter’s tables are laid out with one cutter per side and as the patterns are laid down, care is taken to cut in one direction, costing Oxxford extra fabric yardage but giving, as Cohen describes, the perfect flow and look regardless of how the light may reflect on the fabric.
On the few visits I have had to the Oxxford store in New York, the bulk of the work shown was in 100s and 120s. The fabric room is not stocked to the same degree as the vault at Kiton and I wonder about the finer fabrics but Cohen explains how the full gamut is there and available depending on tastes, he expresses a liking for heavier wools and tweeds, Scott Ruerup is drawn to the finer wools and cashmeres. Ruerup is a tall slender, good looking high energy man with what appears at first glance to a be sleek sheek preferences, not the over the top fashion nature, but refined sleek.
Later when flipping through books, there are some gorgeous fabrics to be found, one cashmere jacket just jumps out, I ask who was behind the fabric buy, Cohen credits Ruerup for the choice. Cohen checks the books, the fabrics is sold out.
Cohen knows every worker in the shop, the staff numbers 250 including office staff, as we walk from station to station he says hello to each, by name. The workers are proud of what they are doing, and while some were shy, they we all happy that someone shows so much interest in their work.
A slow walk through production reveals many sewing machines, mostly old time Singers that fit the style of the shop well. The hand made discussion begins here, why machines on this seam and hand sewn on that seam?
Cohen flips a jacket inside and goes over every stitch of the lining, highlighting what has been done by hand and what has been done with a machine and why.
Cohen echoes some of the comments Manton has made many times. What adds value to the suit? What stitch makes the suit a better suit?
The liner is divided, with the two long seams done by machine, the vents, pockets, arm holes collar and all the finer work done by hand.
Has the choice be made to cut a corner?
No, the labour has been shifted into other directions, directions where Oxxford sees tangable gains that transfer to the client.
One woman is charged with the task of treating all the silk thread before it is given to a tailor. Slowly, working with small batches, one color at a time, she conditions the thread to remove excess wax, this step, says Cohen, makes the thread handle better for the tailors to perform finer, cleaner stitching.
Another reinforces the corners of the jacket pockets in a manner that allows them to be stronger and never tear or sag when and if you decide to play Prince Charles and place your hand in your jacket pocket or heavily load it with blackberries and the like. The bellows pocket which requires extra time and extra fabric.
Master tailors float around between seamstresses checking and helping as they go, some seamstresses, as happened twice during my visit, will call the master tailors to their station, and together go over a point before sewing. These requests generally come up from special orders that venture farther from the standard suit body styles.
But the single most important item I want to see and discuss is the hand sewn lapels and why. Without revelling what I was shown in other factories, I explain the point of view taken by others and presented to me for a machine sewn lapel. Cohen clearly disagrees and calls over a master tailor. It can take over 1.5 man hours to pad a lapel, where a machine can perform the task in 30 seconds. The tailor explains the way the lapel is rolled and held as it is stitched. A jacket is help up and the natural roll is beautiful. Cohen flicks the lapel in different directions and it returns to its form every time, Cohen smiles wide, this pleases him!
This challenges much of what I have seen and been told by others. Given the estimated time to produce a suit, almost 10 percent of the work is being placed into the lapels. The man hours that go into an Oxxford are almost identical to those of a Kiton, about 24 man hours, the production run is just a few thousand pieces larger than Kiton’s at an estimated 20,000 units per year.
I ask about the sales network, Made in the USA,
sold in the USA. Only once has Oxxford ventured into Europe for a short stint. They are currently establishing a relationship with one shop in London and would like to place itself in Canada in the near future. But Cohen says they can not grow the company by leaps and bounds, perhaps 15 to 20 percent at the very most.
Later as we end our visit, I try on a few jackets, most notably, the Mason. This is what I have come to see, the cut some say will draw the younger audience. This was the first Oxxford I have tried on that I could like, really like. It is soft and light, this jacket is a beautiful cashmere fabric that rivals just about anything. I switch to the Radcliffe, I just can’t live with the shoulder structure of the Radcliffe, back to the Mason. This is not my father’s suit. This is my suit!
It is a very young team that is driving Oxxford, most of the top row management I met where 40 or less. Cohen himself is just 40 and the youngest to head Oxxford. If they are driving towards reeling in the 40 year old buyer, they are on the right path with this team and the Mason. I am handed another jacket, 1/4 lined and even lighter than the Mason. It is very nice, but the shoulders are not quite right yet, and I go back to the Mason for the fourth or fifth try. A three button rolled to two, I ask about the button stance and the roll, of all the jackets I have tried, I find one of my Borrelli 3 to 2 rolls to be the perfect roll for my size and shape, the Oxxford rolls further down by an inch or so, but this jacket is gorgeous just the same.
Conclusions:
One can not sugar coat the fact that there are more sewing machines on the floor of Oxxford than Kiton. But Oxxford takes many other steps that Kiton does not. I come to the conclusion that I can not compare the two, they are different beast in different classes and each are doing what they do well, very well.
The fabric room at Kiton is far more impressive to stand before, filled with stunning cloth. But Oxxford seems to have every fabric one could wish for too.
The cashmere swatch books I flipped through did not leave you feeling empty.
I ask Cohen who is Oxxford’s closest competitor, he ponders the question and I wait to hear Kiton, but I don’t. Brioni is our closest competitor he says with hesitation. Today’s shopper is more likely to have visited new stores and tried new things and have order or researched on the internet than at any time in the past he says. A Brioni shopper is more likely to consider and Oxxford than day a Zegna shopper or a Kiton shopper. Cohen makes it clear that he knows and sees the buyers and staff of the top houses and it being the small world that it is, everyone gets along well.
I am not a retailer and the dynamic of the retail environment is tough one, but I certainly don’t see the line between the two as being that close, Oxxford falls below Brioni cost, and given the feel, fabric and fit of the Mason I have just tried on, Oxxford would get the nod hands down.
Lapel Roll,
I think by anyone’s standards,
that is really beautiful roll.
Mike and Rocco debate a custom order.
As we wlaked the shop floor, this jacket caught Mike’s eye and he pulled it from a pile to inspect it. Mike is hands on, for a CEO to be able to walk through the shop and pick out a client special order from a pile, and know the order by name is rather hands on!
Mike Cohen:
Pick stitching:
Hand sewing the lining:
Explaining the work behind the roll:
The hand sewing of a lapel:
The chain link stitching in the shoulder that provides the flexibility in the shoulder area. Laborious and hand sewn.
Collar being readied:
The collar is designed and sewn to have a natural spring that helps keep the collar flat against the suit body. This is done by holding the collar piece in a certain manner while stitching by hand.
Rocco explians the Oxxford view of how a shoulder should be shaped:
The cutter cuts "one way" to ensure a better flow of the suit. Cohen explained how the light reactsto and reflects from different materials in different ways, even though it costs Oxxford extra fabric, they continue to cut one way.
Shears:
Some of the shears are older than I am.
And the tailors are very clear that they love their shears dearly. Note the padding to protect the hand when cutting.
Master Tailors:
The jacket being sewn is a special order. I did not ask what modifications were requested,
but they were substantial enough that the seamstress checked with the master tailor before sewing.
The tailor went over not only what was to be done, but how best to do it.
Threaded needles ready for a morning of work:
Mike Cohen and pant shop manager Stephane (spelling?) show some of the small hand performed steps that make a big difference. In this case, it is the preparation of the waist band before sewing the pant together with a technique that goes back longer than anyone can remember.
Many thanks for this in-depth & excellent Oxxford tour report. As always... your pictures are 2/3 of the post.
After reading this, my main question--or should I say main concern is that why the heck Oxxford can't do something for their Chicago / Mid-west clientele (directly)?
For example, years ago before venturing into the Bespoke land I repeatedly went to Chicago in search of a better quality true MTM suit & each time the people @ their office / factory... kept telling me to go to Neiman Marcus. This is way before Saks had a separate Men's store adjacent to Neiman… at Michigan Ave.
At Neiman's the sales people were jokers. Not all perhaps... but most that I ran into. I placed an order for $4000 4-pc suit through Oxxford but had to cancel it because the sales men at Neiman could not properly convey (what I asked for) to Oxxford & they didn't let me talk to the oxxford personnel--Rocco I guess-- directly.
regards
etutee
After reading this, my main question--or should I say main concern is that why the heck Oxxford can't do something for their Chicago / Mid-west clientele (directly)?
For example, years ago before venturing into the Bespoke land I repeatedly went to Chicago in search of a better quality true MTM suit & each time the people @ their office / factory... kept telling me to go to Neiman Marcus. This is way before Saks had a separate Men's store adjacent to Neiman… at Michigan Ave.
At Neiman's the sales people were jokers. Not all perhaps... but most that I ran into. I placed an order for $4000 4-pc suit through Oxxford but had to cancel it because the sales men at Neiman could not properly convey (what I asked for) to Oxxford & they didn't let me talk to the oxxford personnel--Rocco I guess-- directly.
regards
etutee
Last edited by Etutee on Tue Oct 31, 2006 3:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
Excellent report on a legendary American brand.
The lapel roll pictured in the piece is first rate.
Did you happen to notice if the shoulders were sewn by hand? There are very few SR houses left that sew shoulders by hand anymore so it would not surprise me to hear that they are machine sewn. I can understand machine work on the long back seams, but have never been able to accept machine sewn shoulders. In your text you say the armhole and collar are hand sewn. I imagine the entire shoulder is therefore handsewn. Very good indeed.
Is the green tweed jacket worn by the CEO an Oxxford coat? The collar is short and the notch line is slightly upturned. The short collar could be any bespoke maker but the upturned notch line is an Italian signature. Is this the new coat destined for the younger market?
Does Oxxford do CMT work for clients? Do they have their own books of cloth or do they use the normal suppliers (ie Lessers etc.)?
If I understand it right, there are set patterns that customers can order? But customers can change the patterns or simply modify the detailing choices..ie ticket pocket or not.
There is an infectious enthusiasm that comes across in this report, and where these is such enthusiasm there are generally good works.
An outstanding report and one that is much appreciated.
M Alden
The lapel roll pictured in the piece is first rate.
Did you happen to notice if the shoulders were sewn by hand? There are very few SR houses left that sew shoulders by hand anymore so it would not surprise me to hear that they are machine sewn. I can understand machine work on the long back seams, but have never been able to accept machine sewn shoulders. In your text you say the armhole and collar are hand sewn. I imagine the entire shoulder is therefore handsewn. Very good indeed.
Is the green tweed jacket worn by the CEO an Oxxford coat? The collar is short and the notch line is slightly upturned. The short collar could be any bespoke maker but the upturned notch line is an Italian signature. Is this the new coat destined for the younger market?
Does Oxxford do CMT work for clients? Do they have their own books of cloth or do they use the normal suppliers (ie Lessers etc.)?
If I understand it right, there are set patterns that customers can order? But customers can change the patterns or simply modify the detailing choices..ie ticket pocket or not.
There is an infectious enthusiasm that comes across in this report, and where these is such enthusiasm there are generally good works.
An outstanding report and one that is much appreciated.
M Alden
Last edited by alden on Sun Oct 29, 2006 11:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Oxxford will do CMT. Almost all of the fabric books that I have seen have only had the Oxxford label on them, although a few (eg, the Escorial books) have further identification.alden wrote: Does Oxxford do CMT work for clients? Do they have their own books of cloth or do they use the normal suppliers (ie Lessers etc.)?
Lovely photos, wonderful light.
Thank you. That was fascinating.
I shall be interested to see Oxxford's cut when they arrive in the UK. Brioni are already here and Kiton are due to arrive in early '07 I believe.
I shall be interested to see Oxxford's cut when they arrive in the UK. Brioni are already here and Kiton are due to arrive in early '07 I believe.
A very informative reportage. Thank you very much. It is very interesting that they challenge "the rule" of the hand padded lapel. More of that, please!
Thank you Mr. Alden,
I was a touch apprehensive about posting as my work is geared towards daily newspaper readership.
Mr. Alden wrote:
Did you happen to notice if the shoulders were sewn by hand? There are very few SR houses left that sew shoulders by hand anymore so it would not surprise me to hear that they are machine sewn. I can understand machine work on the long back seams, but have never been able to accept machine sewn shoulders. In your text you say the armhole and collar are hand sewn. I imagine the entire shoulder is therefore handsewn. Very good indeed.
The shoulders and lapel were hand sewn, as was the lining of the arm hole.
The sewing by machine (old singers) was not restricted to the long seam, but also the long seam of the sleeves, and other straight forward seams. I do not recall the exact quote, but to the effect of, Oxxfrod does not want seamstresses turning fabric around in circles in a machine, therefor all short straight seams and arm holes etc are done by hand.
Mr. Alden wrote:
Is the green tweed jacket worn by the CEO an Oxxford coat? The collar is short and the notch line is slightly upturned. The short collar could be any bespoke maker but the upturned notch line is an Italian signature. Is this the new coat destined for the younger market?
The green jacket worn on the Thursday visit is an Oxxford. A special order and he used it as one of the examples of how many ways they modify the collars. he also showed one that was a very unusual take on a peak lapel that was a special request. I did not ask which cut that jacket was based on, but he said he does like the heavier fabrics such as tweeds.
Mr. Alden wrote:
Does Oxxford do CMT work for clients? Do they have their own books of cloth or do they use the normal suppliers (ie Lessers etc.)?
As Jcusey has mentioned, all the swatch books I saw in the offices after the visit were branded Oxxford. I did ask if they only used the mill owned by Mr. Hays (H+S) and was told no. Mr. Hays has opened a mill in Argentina or Chili ( I will have too check my notes later) that is producing some beautiful 140s and 150s according to Cohen.
Mr. Alden wrote:
If I understand it right, there are set patterns that customers can order? But customers can change the patterns or simply modify the detailing choices..ie ticket pocket or not.
The modification can run rather deep.
One jacket we looked at had the pocket positions and angles changed.
They seemed very open to entertain any requests that would help make you feel that the garment was special and truly only yours. One customer asked for a batch of wool that has his name woven in to and they incorporated that in the inside jacket pocket and the fly area of the pants. Every time the client open his fly or went for his wallet, his name would visible. I am left with the impression that this was a one of a kind request!
There is an infectious enthusiasm that comes across in this report, and where these is such enthusiasm there are generally good works.
An outstanding report and one that is much appreciated.
M Alden[/quote]
I was a touch apprehensive about posting as my work is geared towards daily newspaper readership.
Mr. Alden wrote:
Did you happen to notice if the shoulders were sewn by hand? There are very few SR houses left that sew shoulders by hand anymore so it would not surprise me to hear that they are machine sewn. I can understand machine work on the long back seams, but have never been able to accept machine sewn shoulders. In your text you say the armhole and collar are hand sewn. I imagine the entire shoulder is therefore handsewn. Very good indeed.
The shoulders and lapel were hand sewn, as was the lining of the arm hole.
The sewing by machine (old singers) was not restricted to the long seam, but also the long seam of the sleeves, and other straight forward seams. I do not recall the exact quote, but to the effect of, Oxxfrod does not want seamstresses turning fabric around in circles in a machine, therefor all short straight seams and arm holes etc are done by hand.
Mr. Alden wrote:
Is the green tweed jacket worn by the CEO an Oxxford coat? The collar is short and the notch line is slightly upturned. The short collar could be any bespoke maker but the upturned notch line is an Italian signature. Is this the new coat destined for the younger market?
The green jacket worn on the Thursday visit is an Oxxford. A special order and he used it as one of the examples of how many ways they modify the collars. he also showed one that was a very unusual take on a peak lapel that was a special request. I did not ask which cut that jacket was based on, but he said he does like the heavier fabrics such as tweeds.
Mr. Alden wrote:
Does Oxxford do CMT work for clients? Do they have their own books of cloth or do they use the normal suppliers (ie Lessers etc.)?
As Jcusey has mentioned, all the swatch books I saw in the offices after the visit were branded Oxxford. I did ask if they only used the mill owned by Mr. Hays (H+S) and was told no. Mr. Hays has opened a mill in Argentina or Chili ( I will have too check my notes later) that is producing some beautiful 140s and 150s according to Cohen.
Mr. Alden wrote:
If I understand it right, there are set patterns that customers can order? But customers can change the patterns or simply modify the detailing choices..ie ticket pocket or not.
The modification can run rather deep.
One jacket we looked at had the pocket positions and angles changed.
They seemed very open to entertain any requests that would help make you feel that the garment was special and truly only yours. One customer asked for a batch of wool that has his name woven in to and they incorporated that in the inside jacket pocket and the fly area of the pants. Every time the client open his fly or went for his wallet, his name would visible. I am left with the impression that this was a one of a kind request!
There is an infectious enthusiasm that comes across in this report, and where these is such enthusiasm there are generally good works.
An outstanding report and one that is much appreciated.
M Alden[/quote]
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Great reporting, I felt like I was there looking over your shoulder.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Fantastic...thanks for sharing...
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Allen, thanks for your report and photos.alden wrote:Excellent report on a legendary American brand.
The lapel roll pictured in the piece is first rate.
Did you happen to notice if the shoulders were sewn by hand? There are very few SR houses left that sew shoulders by hand anymore so it would not surprise me to hear that they are machine sewn. I can understand machine work on the long back seams, but have never been able to accept machine sewn shoulders. In your text you say the armhole and collar are hand sewn. I imagine the entire shoulder is therefore handsewn. Very good indeed.
Is the green tweed jacket worn by the CEO an Oxxford coat? The collar is short and the notch line is slightly upturned. The short collar could be any bespoke maker but the upturned notch line is an Italian signature. Is this the new coat destined for the younger market?
Does Oxxford do CMT work for clients? Do they have their own books of cloth or do they use the normal suppliers (ie Lessers etc.)?
If I understand it right, there are set patterns that customers can order? But customers can change the patterns or simply modify the detailing choices..ie ticket pocket or not.
There is an infectious enthusiasm that comes across in this report, and where these is such enthusiasm there are generally good works.
An outstanding report and one that is much appreciated.
M Alden
I can answer a few of Mr. Alden's questions.
Oxxford's newer models, such as the Radcliff, Mason, and Burnham, are directed to the younger market in traditional clothes, i.e., 35+. These models have slimmer bodies, higher armholes, higher button stance, higher chest pocket, higher gorges, narrower lapels, and slimmer flatfront trousers.
The Burnham is an informal sportscoat almost like a shirt jacket. It's self lined in the front quarters, and it has no padding. They have a similar coat called the Rocco in honor of their head tailor.
Some critics feel that Oxxford is trying to immitate the Italians and that they are straying from its traditional American look. I think that this is nonesense because you can buy RTW or MTM in any model that you want. The management team are Americans who have cut their teeth at Ralph Lauren.
On MTM a pattern is made for the client based on the stock pattern. The stock pattern is used as a beginning template. Many variations are made so that the customer's pattern becomes his own. E.g., I like my lapels wider than those offered on the standard Radcliff. Allowances have been made for a lower, sloped shoulder. They can make other variations, such as a higher pocket, higher notches, etc.
One of my friends from the forum visited the store with me. He had very specific ideas as to how he wanted his coat made including measurements. They offered to acommodate and offered to make a sample coat of scrap cloth. However, my friend did not "bite."
Of course of MTM you can have any detailing choices, such as flap pockets, besom pockets, ticket pocket, or no pockets.
I have been told that the shoulders are done by hand.
Oxxford has to be purchased through a retailer, therefore, the cloth choices depends upon the dealer. The MTM program which includes Holland & Sherry cloths has a few thousand cloths. Some retailers have other cloths, such as the Oxxford Store which has Smith's, Harrisons, Scabal, Loro Piana, and Zegna. They don't stock Lesser's in the store, but perhaps an arrangement can be made on a case by case basis? I never needed to stray beyond the standard books because I either buy the store's end bolts or provide my own cloth.
They will do CMT. I have had it done with the brown London Lounge glen plaid as well as various finds in Tip Top. Of course, they accept CMT with the usual caveats. I never had a problem.
Mike Cohen, Scott Rerup (?), and Rocco run the place. Scott is the model in the ads. The team worked at Ralph Lauren. Mike just turned 40, and Scott is probably in his late 30's. Mike comes from a clothing family. Spencer Hays loves fine clothes, and since Oxxford provides his clothing, he has a special place for it in his portfolio.
I would say that Oxxford is undergoing a Renaissance as the younger men are re-disovering the suit.
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Dear Zegnamtl:
Thank you for the nice photos of a great American institute at work.
It is fun to see how a great suit is put together by hard working people, (who I can tell form the photos) enjoy their work.
Best Regards,
Cufflink79
Thank you for the nice photos of a great American institute at work.
It is fun to see how a great suit is put together by hard working people, (who I can tell form the photos) enjoy their work.
Best Regards,
Cufflink79
Yes, One of of customers was also on the tour his name was Chris B. He said he had a great time.
He told us that the people at Oxxford were very impress with the clothing he was wearing, especially the fine details.
www.marlonaustin.com and www.markaustinbespoke.com
The Real Bespoke!
He told us that the people at Oxxford were very impress with the clothing he was wearing, especially the fine details.
www.marlonaustin.com and www.markaustinbespoke.com
The Real Bespoke!
Mark,
As I read your post I realize that I did not answer all of Mr. Alden's questions.
Thank you for your clarity.
I agree that Oxxford is not trying to copy the Italians.
The management team, is as we said, young and very energetic and therefor just making the suit more appealing to a broader client base.
I believe Mr. Cohen said his ideal target audience would be the 40 year old and up.
One's personal tastes are a funny thing, I have read many posts that people like the Radcliffe, I tried the Radcliffe and did not like it all. But I did like the Mason very very much. Oxxford does have something for everyone with these new cuts added to the collection.
As I read your post I realize that I did not answer all of Mr. Alden's questions.
Thank you for your clarity.
I agree that Oxxford is not trying to copy the Italians.
The management team, is as we said, young and very energetic and therefor just making the suit more appealing to a broader client base.
I believe Mr. Cohen said his ideal target audience would be the 40 year old and up.
One's personal tastes are a funny thing, I have read many posts that people like the Radcliffe, I tried the Radcliffe and did not like it all. But I did like the Mason very very much. Oxxford does have something for everyone with these new cuts added to the collection.
Good evening Cufflink 79,Cufflink79 wrote:Dear Zegnamtl:
Thank you for the nice photos of a great American institute at work.
It is fun to see how a great suit is put together by hard working people, (who I can tell form the photos) enjoy their work.
Best Regards,
Cufflink79
Thank you. The vist was great fun and a great education.
The staff really does sem to enjoy the work.
There was a woman who was sewing a shoulder and I took her picture and sppoke to her about what she was doing, she was glowing that I was so interested, the fact that Mr. Cohen knows everyone so well makes a difference too. When he walks in and says hello to people, they all say hello back and smile, it was not a "oh great, there's the boss" type scenario at all.
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