Anderson and Sheppard sleeve

[Minh]

I was fascinated by the sleeves on the tan windowpane sportscoat featured in this photo, from the old Anderson and Sheppard:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/gallery/A ... 083?full=1

It's hard to describe, but it's easier to see if you click on the picture to enlarge. The sleeves curve gracefully, and there's a slight rippling, like water falling down a cliff.

I also noticed, elsewhere on the jacket, the softness of the chest and the subtle tapering of the waist. Through and through, it's an exceptional piece of work.

Minh

[ccox]

Mihn,

I am taken with the waist as well as the shapely sleeve. I recently had an alts tailor tell me that he couldn't shape the waist on my RTW RL suit because of the cut. It's a 3 button, rolled to 2, with side vents. I wish I had this picture to show him then. Again, advantage: the bespoke suit and master tailor. I'm finished with buying RTW.

Regards,
CCox

[stanford]

It appears that the high armhole allows a bit of extra vertical space, on the jacket sides, for waist suppression. If the armholes were longer and dropped lower they'd begin to encroach on the waistline and diminish its prominence. Now I need to figure out how to communicate this detail to my tailor. I wonder what an appropriate allowance is for the armhole--should it allow an extra inch or two for freedom of movement without compromising a good fit?

[zjpj]

Here is one from the late 80s to compare.

http://img147.echo.cx/my.php?image=p101 ... ium7fd.jpg

http://img147.echo.cx/my.php?image=p101 ... ium0tz.jpg

http://img147.echo.cx/my.php?image=p101 ... ium0sz.jpg