On Vents

[tiger02]

Gents
Apologize if this has been discussed at length, but a search brought up very little. I was surprised to read in The Suit that ventless jackets are the most slimming. I have always been under the impression that dual vents broke up the horizontal in the rear, emphasized the vertical, and allowed for the most extensive range of motion.

This issue is important to me because my greatest need for bespoke comes from disproportionate hindquarters. Is it universally true that ventless coats are slimming? On what silhouette does ventless work best? Worst? Is it a tailoring skill to be able to make a properly fitting ventless coat, or is it a fairly easy proposition?

Thanks kindly
Tom

[Mark Seitelman]

As a very general proposition, ventless coats are slimming.

Prime examples are found in the classic films of the 1930's to 1950's. Leading men, including Sidney Greenstreet, wore ventless coats.

However, the great movie stars were photographed under ideal conditions. They were usually standing for a scene that lasted on film 4 minutes at best, and they had wardrobe people on the set to press and freshen a garment. They were not sitting around all day in a suit. They were not commuting in a hot subway or commuter train. Ventless coats tend to wrinkle in the back. Also, they bunch-up when you place your hands in your pockets.

Ventless coats are excellent for formal wear. They are also good for people who don't sit much, such as salesmen in a high class store. However, they might not be as practical for the rest of us.