Me again -- Anybody familiar with Italian Clothmakers?

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Herbert
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Fri Jul 14, 2006 6:40 pm

Dear Gentleman

My POW cloth seems to be a never ending story.I finally found exactly the one i was searching for through a vienna dealer (Tuchhaus ONeil).
Unfortunatly the cloth is 165¤ (!) per meter. So for the 5 m i need it will cost
825¤ !
That is way to much for me :(
So i have 2 opportunitys:
1.) I find the maker of this cloth (to buy directly)
2.) I find a sponsor

So only point 1 is the realistic choice. What i found out so far is. The cloth is made in Italy by Tapas or Tarpas os something like that.
Now my Question.
Does someone know a clothmaker in Italy wich name is similar or sound like the one above and does he have a Email Adress.
So far i have swatches from hield,fox falnells,dormeul.....and a few others..but this is the only one wich is exactly what im searching for.
I include the picture of the swatch i have from this cloth:
Image
i put a measure (cm) beside the cloth that you see the size of the check better
So maybe some good soul know who is this italian clothmaker or know any other where i can get the same like this.
Thank you in advance !!

Herbert
Herbert
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Sat Jul 15, 2006 7:09 pm

no Italian members here :(
Sebastian Tombs
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Sat Jul 15, 2006 8:52 pm

I am Italian :)
But alas, I can't be of assistance.
Have a nice day.
aus_md
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Sun Jul 16, 2006 7:12 am

There is a directory of major Italian textile manufacturers here, but nothing very close to "Tapas/Tarpas".
Herbert
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Sun Jul 16, 2006 9:14 am

thx aus_md

you are right..nothing comes close :cry: :cry:
jklu
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Sun Jul 16, 2006 9:44 am

It's a stretch but perhaps Drapers?
Herbert
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Sun Jul 16, 2006 10:08 am

Sorry??
Dont understand what you mean....can you explain me??
TVD
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Sun Jul 16, 2006 4:19 pm

Dear Herbert

The image you posted is fairly common and garden stuff. I genuinely cannot understand that Smith & Co or Harrisons or Holland & Sherry or Scabal or Dormeuil (all of whom will sell retail at a push) cannot supply this either in tropical worsted or worsted flannel or flannel.

This should not run to more than anywhere between GBP 40 and GBP 80 a meter. However, you than need to add postage. Also, 5m appears rather generous even for a three piece. Did your tailor specify this length? Is the cloth you saw special in any way (Super 140s flannel, or cashmere in the blend etc)?

Did you contact any of the above?

I have no experience with Italy, but my impression is that these will not be any cheaper than the UK sources. You may try to call on a Loro Piana or a Zegna flagship store and ask whether they will sell cloth retail. The cost will probably be higher than what you were quoted.

Good luck
Herbert
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Sun Jul 16, 2006 6:10 pm

Hi TVD

When i was searching for this kind of cloth i also think that this is a common coth.The difference between this and the others is.
The touch of this one is..how can i explain....more woolish a more flanell touch
The other swatches i received where either the check was to small or the cloth was too light or feel nor so flanell.
I hope this explains a litte bit.
And the price off 169¤ per meter is in my opinion horrible.


Herbert
TVD
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Sun Jul 16, 2006 6:55 pm

Well, from your description I guess that the cloth in question will have some cashmere content, or be some sort of Superfine flannel. The price you were quoted is not low, but Dormeuil or Scabal will be in the same league for this kind of cloth.

If you are after a proper woolen flannel, the impossibility to find a large check on the market made the London Lounge Cloth Club commission a similar fabric some time ago. Alas, that is all gone, I understand.

Consider this: the cost you were quoted is about twice what you would have to pay for a reasonable cloth, anyway. The difference is not that large when considering the cost of the tailoring. Once you add any travelling expenses incurred in searching, and phone bills and carriage cost for shipping and maybe VAT or customs duty, any potential saving will be all but gone.

As a last try, I think I saw something similar in Zegna's MTM books. Maybe they will sell the cloth only. Again, I doubt it will be any cheaper.
jklu
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Mon Jul 17, 2006 2:18 am

Holland & Sherry have a superfine (140's) flannel POW with blue overcheck, though on a slightly smaller scale as the one pictured. The overcheck is closer to a sky blue than turquoise. It will be considerably pricier than the one in question. Also, Harrisons 39024 is an excellent 11/12 oz worsted flannel, though the overcheck is not as turquoise, either, but closer to a medium blue. It is considerably cheaper than either cloth. It does not have the characteristic cashmere or Super hand.
NAV
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Wed Jul 19, 2006 4:40 pm

Hebert,
I am Italian and quite confident with the topic.
Sorry to say, I have no clue about any Tapas-like manufacturer.
To my knowledge, Ermenegildo Zegna, Cerruti, Guabello, Barbera, Barberis-Canonico are the only manufactures at that level.
Best regards

NAV
Herbert
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Wed Jul 19, 2006 5:31 pm

thank you NAV
Maybe the retailer in vienna didn´t tell me the truth?
NAV
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Sat Jul 22, 2006 10:02 am

Herbert wrote:thank you NAV
Maybe the retailer in vienna didn´t tell me the truth?
It seems unlikely.
Why don't you ask him again in some way?
Herbert
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Sun Jul 23, 2006 3:11 pm

@NAV

The last time he get angry.....im hesitate to ask him again...
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