saharienne

[tteplitzmd]

I mention as an afterthought, that some of the mega-maker luxury houses claim to have dedicated bespoke services: Brioni. Were I in Italy I would certainly consider that, but to try it from the States, violates Teplitz' first law of luxury goods buying: don't buy from someone who knows less than you do about the goods. The one hypothetical advantage of these big names is presumably they operate on a department store model, where it will be done to your liking or returned. There is something to be said for that, but you pay a premium.

[TVD]

Dear Dr Bresch, a quick search on Google revealed an interesting article (http://www.forbes.com/fyi/2006/0424/079.html) which led to a website: http://lostworldsinc.com/HuntingSafariS ... othing.htm

As this company seems to be based in NY State, I suggest you pay them a visit.

[Fashionicon]

Gentlemen: New York City area LL members interested in a safari style shirt jacket should contact Carl Goldberg at CEGO, 212 620-4512. He may be able to accomodate.

He has made me many linen shirts jackets plus a winter weight wool overshirt style jacket.

[Guest]

Bingo! Embaras de richesse! Carl, the AK, and now Bugelli has written me at last! Now, what color? What material? Several of you have misunderstood, I do not want some sort of faux sporting garment, I am looking for a more relaxed version of the sport jacket.

[tteplitzmd]

Please keep us informed if Mr. Bugelli is able and willing to do a commission, and if so, what the style will be.

[bry2000]

I still don't know how you can remotely custom order a garment that you cannot fully describe. If you can, more power to you.

[Guest]

My remote orders are not so difficult. There were the trousers from Ambrosi. He copied a pair of Land's End custom trousers. The fit is perfect or near perfect. The model is one of his standard models, I just described the style pocket I prefer (western). He sent me swatches after the first pair, which was a basic grey flannel.

My Bugelli shirts were copies of a Jantzen shirt (which in itself is remote bespoke). They fit well. I noticed they fit a little better after a few washes, a little looser for some reason, as if the thread had to "give." The first shirt he sent me was too tight due to a measurement error on his part. But then he fixed it.

Finally, there is the remote bespoke set-up I recommend for everyone who has an excuse, Dracula (RJMan calls him this). I went to Romania to attend a brother-in-law's wedding and I was measured for garments by a tailor there. I had fabric sent (a big mistake, I should have just brought it with me) and since then, I have sent him more fabrics to make into pants and jackets.

The sahariana from Bugelli is no big deal, it is easier than if I ordered from Cego, because Bugelli has my measurements and already has a standard sahariana model. Its pictures were displayed on the London Lounge.

By the way, whoever wrote that the search function works, you are quite right, I won't admit the stupid mistake I was making repeatedly now for a year.

[tteplitzmd]

David,

Where is it in the LL?

[Guest]

Check the second post in this thread Terry.

[tteplitzmd]

Daivd,

Yes, I remember the photo, but did not read the fine print---for some reason I didn't think Bugelli made the example he models. Do you know the material used in the photo?? Please keep us informed on this project. My interest is to have a model with different collar and pockets, in linen or cotton/wool for summer travel. I would also like to know if the Bugelli example is lined in any way.

Terry

[Costi]

I took a length of linen to my shirtmaker last week asking for a shirt jacket and this nice old lady who never says "no" to me, this time rolled her eyes, sighed, smiled and finally said "I'll do it but don't press me, I need to be in the right mood for this" - still better an answer than dr. Teplitz got from his shirtmakers.

I quote from myself above (earlier in this thread) to introduce to you the outcome of the enterprise I took upon myself three months ago. I innitially commissioned a “shirt jacket” to my shirtmaker (with minimum - but still some - canvas in the chest, no shoulder padding, jacket construction with lapels and collar etc.), which, after some serious thinking, she politely declined and offered to help convince my tailor to make it. He did make it after all and I will post pictures as soon as I manage to take some.
To make up for her refusal, my shirtmaker offered to make what SHE calls a “Saharienne” (it seems different countries/artisans have different views on whether it is a “shirt jacket or a “jacket shirt”.) Her version is a comfortable “jacket shirt” (the barrel cuffs unmistakably mark it is a shirt) made in heavy natural colour linen, with interlined revers, patch pockets and a lot of machine stitching that gives the chest sufficient stiffness to hang almost like a coat (the collar and lapels construction helps, too). The same principle is applied to the belt, for instance, where a railroading of 5 rows of machine stitching, 1 cm apart, does away with the need for an interlining (it’s stiff enough) and keeps it flat.
The fit is comfortable, with sufficient looseness in the chest, while the bi-swing back allows for total freedom of movement. The pictures speak for themselves in all other respects.



The belt is stitched to the back pannel up to the side pleats, fixing them in place at the waist. My shirtmaker chose to close the pleats at the bottom hem for a neater look, but I'm not sure if I won't ask her to let them loose (I'll se how it wears).


Single needle double stitching on the sides, under the sleeves and around the armholes, with no edges showing anywhere (the interlining and revers edges are taped in silk).


All buttonholes are handsewn (working on the epaulettes), as well as the reinforcements between collar and lapel, all buttons shanked and firmly cross-stitched.

[dopey]

Costi:

That is absolutely beautiful. I have no idea when I would ever wear one, but, no matter . . . I would still enjoy having one even if only to hang in my closet. It is that beautiful.

Congratulations to you and your shirtmaker. May I ask how involved you were in the design process? Did you come back one day to find the shirt/jacket already made or did you spend a lot of time with her going over the specifications? Either way, a fine result.

What is the composition of the belt buckle?

[DD MacDonald]

Costi - now that you have the jacket, time to book a ticket to Africa for the grand tour.

It's a very dramatic garment, enjoy.

DDM

[RWS]

Very, very nice, Costi. I might have wanted a slightly different shape to the pocket flaps, but the details are as pleasing as the overall effect. Do let your shirtmaker that there´s now a Lounger in South America dreaming of Africa . . . .

By the way: were I you, I think I´d liberate pleats at the hem. Most linen today is informal by its very nature, and a Saharienne certainly should put one in mind more of the wilderness than of the parade ground.

[tteplitzmd]

My compliments on this. It is interesting how difficult it is to get someone to undertake this type of commission. I am in the process of getting a Sulka jacket copied, and will post the outcome.