Berluti bespoke

[rjman]

I am daydreaming -- or seriously considering -- this. I haven't seen Berluti bespoke in the flesh, apart from one or two models in the window of their shops, but the entire Berluti image is captivating me with its siren song. I acquired, for a price I hate to recall, the Berluti vanity picture book from the 1990s, full of gorgeous pictures. A LL member whose opinions I deeply respect has tried to talk me out of it, but could anyone with firsthand knowledge of the bespoke, I repeat bespoke, Berluti shoes let me know their thoughts? Long ago an informed poster wrote that one has to be careful when ordering Berluti bespoke lest it just be a special order from Ferrara instead of the fruit of their bespoke workshops on the rue du Louvre. My impression is that Berluti bespoke can do any toe shape one wants; does anyone know if they bevel and fiddle waists? WIll they Goodyear welt without my asking? Am I crazy?

[bry2000]

I don't have much to say about Berluti bespoke, but why not check out Corthay in Paris for bespoke? Or Dmitry Gomez? I think Jcusey has written previously about Berluti bespoke so perhaps he can chime in.

[rjman]

Good question. From what I've seen of Corthay's bespoke samples, his last shape seems extremely stylized. I am sure he can do any toe shape, but he seems to favor the elongated, ultrachiselled toe. I've thought of him though.

Dimitri Gomez is another good suggestion. Manton was recommending I go to him, although he hasn't used him. In that respect, it just comes down to the atavism of Berluti and the possibility they might have some truly gorgeous styles or inspirations. Of course, they probably, like Lobb Paris, have significant price jumps for any specific requests (Lobb wants extra for "souliers" as opposed to normal shoes). I've thought of Aubercy as well, I know naturlaut has a pair (right?). I am tempted by the Gomez made-to-order program. With Green rising in price, it's seeming attractive.

[dopey]

. . . it just comes down to the atavism of Berluti . . .

What does this mean?

[edhayes]

I have a number of pairs of Berluti ready to wear, their Olga 3 line fits me almost like bespoke. Their bespoke looks to be very high quality but I am still not sure that the leater they use will take a good polish long term. In any case, if you're in Paris, I would certaintly check out Gomez before deciding what to do-Berluti has a very wide range of lasts and you might be able to satisfy yourself with their RTW before going for their very high priced bespoke

[rjman]

I have a pair of their shoes in RTW which I rather enjoy. They're rubber-soled Tibetas in thick leather and comfortable although not particularly well designed for my foot. However, their RTW shoes only have one last per shoe style, in one width, which tends to limit choice. Moreover, the leather in their Venezia leather RTW appears likely to crease badly, from what I've seen on the Japanese sites. Their bespoke is apparently much, much better made. Berluti RTW is becoming banalised with LVMH's announced aim of forty boutiques worldwide and their foray into leathergoods and soon clothes. I'd like to realize a little dream by hitting that source -- sort of like opting for Huntsman bespoke instead of its RTW. In addition, their RTW -- whose prices keep ramping up -- isn't made by them, but by Stefanobi -- and largely Blake-stitched, and now, whispers have it, in China.

Berluti bespoke starts at 3200 euros, no?

[jcusey]

I think Jcusey has written previously about Berluti bespoke so perhaps he can chime in.

Alas, I have no first-hand knowledge of Berluti bespoke, although everything that I have heard and read indicates that they make a first-rate product for those who like their style. I believe that there are some LL members who have commissioned from Berluti before, and I hope that they are willing to discuss their experiences.

[TVD]

I have been shopping at Berluti for about ten years now, alas never ordered bespoke. Started with RTW shoes, now only get my socks there. The manager of the Conduit Street has always been most helpful.

I recall from one of my conversations with the staff, that some of the bespoke shoes are blake stitched. Interesting.

Their marketing is excellent, but then it probably should be, given how much they spend. They used to do some club thing where valued customers were invited to gorgeous locations to drink Moet and polish their shoes with Dom Perignon (I am not trying to be funny, in that order). I was told a rumour that years ago the former manager of the Conduit Street store took things in hand during one of these sessions. It got a bit rowdy and he persuaded the boys to finish polishing, polish off the Dom Perignon and then head out on town. He moved to a different company shortly thereafter.

I think it really comes down to what you want. You can only buy into the cachet of Berluti by buying Berluti. But I personally would be far more tempted to spend a day finetuning something very classic with Dimitri Gomez (I met him, but I have not ordered anything yet) or Tony Gaziano or Cleverley. It just feels closer to the actual craft, the tradition and skills that make all the difference.

[rjman]

Update:

Some weeks ago on my weekly Parisian peregrinations, which usually originate near Charvet (fancy that!) and end in my former FSG stomping grounds, I stopped into the Berluti boutique on Boul St Germain after also having discussed bespokery with Corthay and Crockett. The welcome was warm as ever; the salesman remembered my name from my rare visits, the fellow who sold me my RTW pair long ago was there, and they were extremely open about their bespoke, mentioning the location of the atelier and their flexibility as to bespoke ordering. They took my number for their Maitre Bottier to contact me when next he is in town (?). As he didn't contact me, in the meantime I talked my self into using a very nice fellow in Montmartre. Further reports as events warrant.

[zjpj]

These are Berluti bespoke. (Not mine, thank goodness.)