Hilditch & Key bespoke

[tteplitzmd]

I agree with Mr. Uppercase, having had both the London and Bugelli experiences---there is no comparison. A further bonus is Mr. Bugelli's past as a nationally recognized speed skater, so the dialogue is more entertaining than tales of the olde Empire.

[Cantabrigian]

Does Bugelli travel at all or must all the fittings be done in Florence?

[tteplitzmd]

Only Japan (for a month at a time I think) and Florence. Worth the journey, but highly variable production times, a very small operation, without corporate or commercial hindrences.

[S.Maran]

I agree with those who say there is now no real bespoke in London. None that resembles the Italian offerings anyway. My experience of Budd is that they produce a reasonable but highly variable MTM shirt with no fittings and a choice of loose or slim fitting bodies. There is a minimum of three (and have exacted the minimum in subsequent orders with me at least). The fitter whose name escapes me for the moment has an amusingly aggresive manner, if you are in the mood for it. He does not take it well if there are alterations or complaints to rectify.

[tteplitzmd]

Why bother, unless you have a perverse enjoyment of the "transaction?"

[bry2000]

What about David Gale at Dunhill? Is he a better fitter or does he make a true bespoke product?

[loungelizard]

One further comment on H&K and their product quality. Late last year, I purchased two MTM shirts. H&K insisted my neck size was a 15 inch not the 15.5 inch which I have comfortably worn for many years. Despite protests and pointing out personal preference, H&K insisted on making the two shirts with the smaller neck size. Several months later, the shirts are unwearable as the collars have shrunk. When attempting to have the problem corrected by H&K via replacing shirt collars, H&K insisted [apparently a popular mantra with them] my laundry used boiling water during the laundering process and shrunk the collars but not the shirt. When H&K were informed my laundry does not use the French method of laundry, they replied with another fabricated excuse. In short, H&K will not correct their mis-measurement unless the client pays approximately £38 per collar. This is an unfair method of doing business..

[tteplitzmd]

The merchant's excuse is what separate's a merchant (retailer) from an artisan, it seems to me. You don't get this sort of opposition as often from a smaller operation. I would take my business elsewhere.

[AlexanderKabbaz]

insisted [apparently a popular mantra with them] my laundry used boiling water during the laundering process and shrunk the collars but not the shirt.

This one is going WAAY up near the top of my list. I won't say it is impossible. But you might wish to submit it to the O.E.D. as a definition candidate for words such as "preposterous".

[rjman]

Interesting note -- was at Hilditch and Key Paris today; the sale has just started. While I was picking up a gorgeous flower-printed handmade tie and their signature cashmere-silk hand-printed scarf (as seen on the cover of "Making the Man" and misattributed to Drake's in "Style and the Man" I asked casually about whether they still did bespoke out of Paris. Allegedly, they do a Paris-made bespoke starting at about 300 euros per shirt, minimum order of 3. It would be interesting to know if anyone knows anything about their Paris bespoke program, although I am happy with Charvet, and given how they always treat visitors at HK Paris badly, have no inclination to go to them.

[Gruto]

I will give H&K a try in July when I go to London. From what I read they care about construction (pattern matching and single-needle stiching). But if fitting is poor ... I don't know. Maybe it is better to find Frank Foster or some other sole trader, if they exist.

[Gruto]

I will give H&K a try in July when I go to London. From what I read they care about construction (pattern matching and single-needle stiching). But if fitting is poor ... I don't know. Maybe it is better to find Frank Foster or some other sole trader, if they exist.

To check the flexibility I asked H&K, if they are willing to make more than one trial shirt, if the first shirt need larger adjustments. The salesman refused saying something like: "That will not happen, sir. We have 100 years of experience in shirtmaking. We make it right first time".

So I went to Emma Willis. No arrogance, no stubborness. I will tell more about that later ... and Budd, very funny place!

[TVD]

The service at EW has always been its forte. Make sure they resolve any issues with the first shirt, though, before you let them loose on the rest of the batch. I suggest a couple of washes and ironing it yourself.

Oh, and sadly enough, yes, all people seem to agree that it takes a lot of courage to deal with Budd, although I never met anybody who complained about their shirts (as opposed to their gruffness).

[Gruto]

Oh, and sadly enough, yes, all people seem to agree that it takes a lot of courage to deal with Budd, although I never met anybody who complained about their shirts (as opposed to their gruffness).

Thank you TVD. I'll take good care with the first shirt from EM.

My impression is that Budd is willing make another trial shirt if the first fails a lot. But no more than two. That is OK. One should get I nice fit through two trial shirts. But when I asked for pattern matching, I experienced "a bad English comedy":

"We don't do that. We think it looks too uniform. Go to Hilditch & Key," the cutter said.

When I asked again, he was a little unclear. MAYBE they could do it. But the first reply said it all, I think. I know they risk to spil shirting on pattern matching but they should do it.

[uppercase]

Go to Italy.

A paying client shouldn't get that kind of abuse, anywhere.

Preposterous for a so called bespoke shirt maker.

Why bother with the UK anymore?!