Brown shoes vs. black shoes

[EGAF]

I'm getting used to the idea of dark brown shoes worn with a suit, but what of the reverse situation, a black shoe with a less formal outfit? When not wearing a suit, are there times when black shoes are inappropriate?

For example, I read somewhere (possibly here) that it is advisable to avoid wearing black shoes with a navy blazer. The thinking was, I believe, that if you go with the back shoes, you really should just be wearing a suit. Is this the consensus? Are there any other such rules?

[dopey]

. . . For example, I read somewhere (possibly here) that it is advisable to avoid wearing black shoes with a navy blazer. The thinking was, I believe, that if you go with the back shoes, you really should just be wearing a suit. Is this the consensus? Are there any other such rules?

This seems silly. While you should feel free to wear brown shoes with a blazer, there is no reason why you can't wear black shoes with a blazer (or other sportcoat) and gray or navy trousers.

But take my opinion with a grain of salt. I am finding that I like the look of black shoes with suits more and more despite the trend away from them. And I am not being retrograde . . . black oxfords just seem a bit sleeker with certain suits and black derbies seem more appropriate where brown casual shoes seem less so.

[Concordia]

Especially in the evening, there is a lot to be said for black shoes with grey odd trousers and the appropriate sport coat.

There is a prejudice growing against this look because in the US, anyway, it has been appropriated by security guards-- bad black shoes with poly/wool blue "blazers." If you dress well, however, there shouldn't be any danger of your being confused with the guy staring at the video monitor, assuming that troubles you. I think part of the trick is either going for the sleek black Derby as Dopey suggests or perhaps a slightly rusticated Oxford with the right amount of broguing or even a discreet grain, context permitting.

[manton]

I don't like black shoes with blazers, with rare exceptions. With other odd jackets, never.

The only little bit of counter-intuitive misdirection I do enjoy is to wear black shoes with brown suits.

[ThomasG]

The only little bit of counter-intuitive misdirection I do enjoy is to wear black shoes with brown suits.

I particularly like black suede shoes worn with suits of brown flannel or tweed. I like black suede shoes with both grey and black flannel suits(Yes, I have a black flannel suit), I think that I may simply like black suede shoes. But not as much as I like black alligator shoes.

[TVD]

I quite like polished black Chelseas or Jodphurs. I have never been happy with anything other than boots when matching black shoes with odd coats.

[preobrazhensky]

Manton, in refusing black shoes with odd jackets I assume you are shunning any sort of odd jacket for even the most casual of evenings?

[Phil]

I love a black calfskin or cordovan loafer with houndstooth or dark grey trousers paired with a navy blazer. I also have a pair of black split toe bluchers that I think works well with that combination. I was raised to believe it was okay to wear brown shoes with suits before 6 pm, but that after 6 it was correct to change to black. I realize that old rule has been left in the dust, and in many ways that’s good because it helps men who do know how to put themselves together to stand apart.

[whittaker]

I am with with TVD on this one. Black boots look smart but I would also throw black monk straps in as a nice semi-casual option. Anything black higher up the scale of formality looks inappropriate to me.

[JLibourel]

I now regret having bought as many black shoes as I have. I actually feel I could make it just fine through the rest of my life with no more than one or two pairs of black shoes. These would be a plain captoe bal and a pair of pumps or oxfords suitable for evening wear in the event I had occasion to dress semi-formally. Is this an extreme or eccentric view? Influenced by these fora, I now feel a sense of unease when I wear black shoes most of the time, which is infrequent and usually because I simply want to get a little mileage out of them.

[EGAF]

I now regret having bought as many black shoes as I have. I actually feel I could make it just fine through the rest of my life with no more than one or two pairs of black shoes...

I fear I now feel the same way. I have put off buying the two basic pairs you mention in favor of shoes that I imagined I would wear more often. Consequently, I have four pairs of black shoes where there should be one and am missing the two pairs I really do need. Nevertheless my experience would have your list amended ever so slightly:

One might add something like a semi-brogue black calf to the plain-cap oxford and the patent oxford/pump. If one does decide to wear black shoes from time to time, one should have the flexibility to wear a shoe less formal than the plain-cap oxford.

[ThomasG]

The current backlash against all things black(suits, jackets, trousers and shoes) among the aficionados would be laughable if it weren't so fervently upheld. Black should be just another arrow in a gentleman's sartorial quiver, nothing more and certainly nothing less.

[TVD]

I must agree, there is nothing inherently right or wrong with black. It is simply that in certain locations (e.g. london) and certain combinations (e.g. with a town suit) they look good, in fact are necessary, and in others (the odd jacket in the country &c.) they are less interesting.

Very often a brown shoe would draw undue attention. A perfectly cut, elegantly lasted black shoe in the finest spit polished calf is a thing of great beauty. Discreet, but beautiful nonetheless.

And finally, a historical observation: From the few prints I have seen the bucks of the Regency loved to wear polished black boots with their contrasting pale breeches.

[RWS]

. . . . [T]he bucks of the Regency loved to wear polished black boots . . . .

True -- and striking.

I agree with the philosophy of allowing black in other than formal and semi-formal clothes. Practically, though, I find it difficult: cat's hairs and stray lint (try though I might to keep my surroundings immaculate) are spotlit on black wool. Should any Lounger have a remedy, he'll find in me a grateful reader.

[TVD]

Try black cats.

Also, I find that different cloths are differently susceptible to attracting fluff: Frescos and tropicals are the worst, whereas superfine worsteds are quite good. The smoother the surface, I guess, the fewer cat hairs and the like will get stuck.

Also, the electric qualities of your lining and your shoes' soles may be a contributor. So far, I have failed to investigate further. I would probably lose the will to live if I had to worry even about those invisible details. It is bad enough that suffer from all the variations in all the other (aptly named) variables in bespoke clothing.