Handcrafted tools to care for bespoke garments

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

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Costi
Posts: 2963
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:29 pm
Location: Switzerland
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Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:34 pm

I once asked my shirtmaker how she managed to iron the armhole seam so wrinkleless, but at the same time with a round shape, as if it had been ironed on a life-size manequin. I find it most difficult to flatten this particular seam, even when using an ironing board and placing the sleeve head over its rounded narrow end (yes, I do occasionally iron my own shirts - I take my time, 20 minutes each, and I believe nobody does it better than me - hehe :lol: ; so, if I want a perfectly pressed shirt within half an hour, there’s nowhere else to go).
So, to answer my curiosity, a few days later she presented me with a most peculiar gift: a special oval-shaped handmade cushion - the one you can see in the picture below.
Image
I had seen a similar object many times before in her workshop and had never paid much attention to it. I understand it is densely packed with various layers of cotton fabric, tightly compressed until the desired shape is obtained. It is a heavy object - much heavier than you would expect looking at it! At least here, in Bucharest, few artisans still know how to handcraft these special cushions which are designed to last for decades (when it gets dirty, you just encase it in a new piece of clean cloth and sew the edges).
In shirtmaking, this cushion is used mainly to iron the difficult round-shaped seam connecting the sleeve to the body of the shirt. Half at a time, the armhole is placed around the curved edge of the cushion and then ironed. The cushion’s slightly convex shape prevents the iron’s plate from touching other parts of the shirt, resulting in a perfectly wrinkleless AND round-shaped armhole seam.
Also, when ironing the back of the collar where there always seems to be excess fabric after each wash, all you have to do is place it along the slightly convex surface of the cushion, stretch it a bit and all the “excess” fabric disappears by magic; iron it, then take the cushion away and press it flat directly on the table. The same goes for the inside of the cuffs.
AND she never uses an ironing board to iron the shirts. Instead, she uses a normal, rectangular table and her cushion to lift up any area of the shirt that needs special treatment.
I use it all the time now and I must say that results are incomparably better then before. Perhaps some of the professional tools of the artisans must somehow make their way into our lives if we are to fully enjoy the benefits of their creations…?
Cufflink79
Posts: 711
Joined: Mon Aug 29, 2005 10:16 pm
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Thu Feb 09, 2006 10:14 pm

Neat photo Costi, and I thought I was a champ at ironing my own shirts. :roll: The device looks like a big help, thanks for sharing. BTW, does this mean all LL members can send you their shirts for ironing? :lol: Thanks again for sharing.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
Costi
Posts: 2963
Joined: Tue Dec 20, 2005 6:29 pm
Location: Switzerland
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Fri Feb 10, 2006 5:58 pm

BTW, does this mean all LL members can send you their shirts for ironing?
Yes, they may - it'll be good training. However, I reserve the privilege of accepting only those that I like... :wink:
bengal-stripe
Posts: 210
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 11:15 pm
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Sun Feb 12, 2006 10:28 pm

It's called a tailor's ham.
You should get one without difficulties at a tailor/dressmakers suppliers.
While you there, look at a seam-roll as well.
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