Perhaps it's time for a brown suit ...

"The brute covers himself, the rich man and the fop adorn themselves, the elegant man dresses!"

-Honore de Balzac

Mark Seitelman
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Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:38 pm

I have to thank Alan Flusser for introducing me to brown for city suits. Previously, I was stuck in the tradition of blue/grey only. Every season Flusser would have a couple of exclusive cloths in brown.

It seems that the darker the brown the more dressy it is. A deep chocolate brown is very dressy. I prefer the darkest of browns similar to the dark chocolate or espresso. I have two in Flusser stripes and one pin stripe in worsted Lesser's. The Lesser's is a very deep brown.

One problem in selecting a deep brown suiting is matching shoes. Generally, the shoes should be darker, and many brown shoes that I own are too light next to my deep brown suits. I have a couple of pairs which fit the bill. You might be able to get away with black shoes if you are wearing a very dark brown suit.

Cheers.
Cufflink79
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Thu Feb 09, 2006 4:15 pm

Mark Seitelman wrote, "One problem in selecting a deep brown suiting is matching shoes."

Dear Mark:

When in doubt, go with brown suede. :D

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
masterfred
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Thu Feb 09, 2006 4:34 pm

Not to mention that the old Esquire/AA illustrations would, it seems most seasons, offer up "town brown" suitings paired with not only antiqued brown, but indeed black shoes. Dark brown suede with chocolate flannel looks absolutely smashing, too....
manicturncoat
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Thu Feb 09, 2006 4:38 pm

Have you looked at Solaro. This is an excellent cloth, more tan than brown, it is very popular in Italy and although it is very continental I don't think it is flashy at all. When unlined it works very well as a fall/spring suiting.
David V
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Thu Feb 09, 2006 7:44 pm

Before the Fall of Civilization ie: the Casual Office, browns and greens were a part of every businessman wardrobe.
risto
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Fri Feb 10, 2006 3:23 am

I very much appreciate the responses thus far. It appears that my initial thought of going with a that deep, dark nailhead might not be as crazy after all. While dopey's sample looked lovely, I would likely not use it for business. The suggestion that the darker the brown, the dressier and more business-like it is, works for me.

I appreciated Concordia's comments and will have to make sure that the cloth and tailoring is luxurious enough not to fall within the noted midwestern look. I don't mind the Italian connotation at all. And I'll have to ask my tailor about Solaro.

Mark raised the subject of matching (black) shoes with a brown suit. Interesting. This might give me an opportunity to wear more of my black shoes. In the past year, I had veered almost exclusively towards browns with the blues and grays.

Lastly, I look forward to Richard3's pictures. If anyone else has examples, please do share them with us.
filangieri
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Fri Feb 10, 2006 11:06 am

In Napoli, where almost any law - from traffic regulations to sartorial “rules” - is freely, merrily violated every minute of the day by the local population (anyone who had the chance to visit my hometown knows exactly what I’m talking about !), brown suits (and shoes) are just fine, thank you.
During the cold season, a deep, chocolate brown flannel chalk-stripe “completo”, matched with suede brogues and a beautiful cachemire tie is perfectly acceptable in any circumstance, with the only exception of formal events and business meetings.
In the summertime, when the most elegant “signori napoletani” really feel free to display their innate talent for color and pattern matching, “marron glacee” linen suits and coffee brown fresco sport-coats (with grey “tela vaticana” or tan-yellow linen pants) are in full swing ... not to mention lighter shades of brown declined in any summer-weight fabric.
dopey
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Fri Feb 10, 2006 4:45 pm

In honor of this thread, I am today wearing a brown Donegal tweed three-piece suit. I will be spending the weekend on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, where, in contrast to my neighborhood, the rats have thick bushy tails making it the country.

With the extra set of trousers from the suit, several shirts and ties and a sportcoat made from the predecessor to this tweed,
Image,
I am set through Sunday.
Will

Fri Feb 10, 2006 7:23 pm

Dopey,

I nearly ordered the same fabric but hesitated because it looked green.

It's brown?

Will
dopey
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Fri Feb 10, 2006 7:45 pm

Will wrote:Dopey,

I nearly ordered the same fabric but hesitated because it looked green.

It's brown?

Will
Will:
My apologies for being unclear. I am discussing two different tweeds. The suit I am wearing today is a brown Donegal tweed.
In my bag, packed for the weekend, is a sportjacket made with the forerunner of the cloth pictured in my post above. The cloth pictured does indeed have green (or lovat) base. (As does mine, although the tone of the green is slightly different.)
Richard3
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Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:01 pm

Here ist the pic as promised. Forgive me the stiff posture...



http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image ... 0013ub.jpg
risto
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Sun Feb 12, 2006 9:25 am

Richard3, thanks much for the picture. It was lighter than I anticipated, but the stripes add such a depth. Very nice indeed.

While I'm waiting for my GQ (UK) subscription to run out, I did notice that the latest edition had a large Ralph Lauren advertisement showing a rather nice cappucino brown pinstripe from the black label. :shock:
uppercase
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Sun Feb 12, 2006 1:04 pm

Richard3 wrote:Here ist the pic as promised. Forgive me the stiff posture...



http://img96.imageshack.us/my.php?image ... 0013ub.jpg
That's a very nice looking suit, indeed!
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