Footwear for Black Tie

[mhodson]

Gentlemen,

This upcoming Saturday I am attending a black-tie "optional" (is black tie ever truly optional for a gentleman?) winter gala benefit for my alma mater. While I have the tuxedo, shirt, bow tie, cummerbund, braces, cufflinks and studs, I don't have a pair of shoes appropriate for semi-formal dress. I've looked into renting them, since at this point in my life I'm likely to dress up in black tie once or twice a year, but most of the ones I've seen have been hideous, square-toed affairs. Therefore I'm considering purchasing a quality pair of my own that will last me until well after semi-formal events have become a more common occurence in my life.

What is the proper, traditional style of shoe? Is it the opera pump or a lace-up oxford? I imagine patent leather is the proper way to go. Can anyone recommend any good brands or stores readily available here in New York? Also, do the gentlemen of the Lounge consider black silk hosiery a necessity for semi-formal dress, or at least something that separates the well-dressed man from the guy in the penguin suit? And lastly, what is the recommended style of pocket square for a dinner jacket? The square "banker" style or something with a bit more panache?

Thank you in advance for any advice or assistance you can provide.

Cheers,

Michael

[Cufflink79]

Dear Michael:
Don't rent shoes NO NO NO. Black silk hosiery is a good choice. As for shoes Peal & Co. for Brooks Brothers or Grenson at Paul Stuart. Also why not give calf skin a try as well for formal shoes. Have a good time.

Here is a link hope it help.

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatSect ... =t&sortBy=

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[manton]

The traditional shoe is either a plain-toed (no cap) black patent oxford, or else the pump. Apparel Arts always refers to the pump as being patent. But most of the ones I see today are calf. I think I prefer the pump in calf. But I prefer the oxford to be patent.

[DD MacDonald]

Ahough I own a pair of patent pumps with the little bow, I think that Manton has the right idea here about calf pumps and patent oxfords.

However, being practical, before I purchased either a calf pump or a patent oxford, I would recommend that anyone purchase the best cap toe (no perforation) balmoral thay can find and polish it up spit-shine-brite. We're not talking plastic duck shoes here, we're talking the good ones, Alden;s, Westons, Greens, lobbs, etc.

As time goes on, as I saw how many events I attended, and as my wallet refilled I'd then make the choice of a dedicated formalware shoe. In the mean time, I'd have a great business shoe.

DDM

[Richard3]

I am going to attend a black tie event tonight and will wear patent oxfords. I rarely wear black tie (perhaps 2-3 times a year) but buying shoes for this occasions is certainly worth it. Try dancing in rented/ not-worn-in shoes for a couple of hours and you`ll know why.

BTW, my patent oxfords are about 11 years old.

[Concordia]

Even slightly cruddy patents will last a fair while. I have a pair that are CJ-sourced and not at all expensive. I wear them over a dozen times a year, and they are going on 7 years old now. They've looked better, but will suffice for a few more years of concerts. I may try to get another nicer pair for social occasions, or maybe dust off (literally) the old calf pumps I got from Brooks nearly 20 years ago.

Anyone know the best way to remove dust from a grosgrain ribbon?

[iammatt]

Even slightly cruddy patents will last a fair while. I have a pair that are CJ-sourced and not at all expensive. I wear them over a dozen times a year, and they are going on 7 years old now. They've looked better, but will suffice for a few more years of concerts. I may try to get another nicer pair for social occasions, or maybe dust off (literally) the old calf pumps I got from Brooks nearly 20 years ago.

Anyone know the best way to remove dust from a grosgrain ribbon?

A clothes brush works well.

[Ray]

Dear All

If the question were asked in the UK I would suggest 99% of gentlemen would say their choice of foot wear for such an ocasion would be a plain black toe capped Oxford. It's also worth noting that patent leather, like wing collared shirts are the choice for white tie not black tie. Although strangely toe capps are polished to a glass like finnish. I think this is a military influence as my farther who once was a Royal Marine polishes all of his shoes in this way.

[Parishow]

Dear All

If the question were asked in the UK I would suggest 99% of gentlemen would say their choice of foot wear for such an ocasion would be a plain black toe capped Oxford. It's also worth noting that patent leather, like wing collared shirts are the choice for white tie not black tie. Although strangely toe capps are polished to a glass like finnish. I think this is a military influence as my farther who once was a Royal Marine polishes all of his shoes in this way.

As an American, who spent two weeks, last December in London and always it seemed during this time, I ran into Christmas parties (corporate and private) and looking at what the men were wearing; how nice it was to see men wearing dinner jackets , almost all, wore plain black toe capped Oxfords, hardly saw a patent leather pump anywhere.

[RWS]

. . . n the UK . . . 99% of gentlemen would say their choice of foot wear . . . would be a plain black toe capped Oxford. . . .

In many ways -- sartorial and other -- America is more conservative, more traditional than Britain. Consider that we Americans generally still sew our shirtbuttons with an "x" instead of parallel lines! It's not surprising, then, that pumps are more popular in the States than in England. (Now and then, I read that some men don't wear pumps because they fear being thought effeminate; but I'm certain that Loungers are wiser, more self-assured, and better educated in history than to be among that group.)

[SouthPender]

Well, I guess the one shoe that hasn't been mentioned so far would be the black calf plain-toe oxford. Wouldn't that shoe be a better compromise than the cap-toe?

[RWS]

It would, to my taste, as all captoes smack of business (and for which, I quite like them).

[JLibourel]

I note that in the other fora a number of people seem to be enamored with the idea of using plain (unbrogued) black wholecuts with a DJ. Is there any consensus here on this? I think some regard the wholecut as a little too novel and inappropriate for use with a DJ. Any opinions on which is less appropriate, the plain black captoe or the plain black wholecut?

[tortured-sole]

Hello gentlemen, I am very pleased to be here. This is my first post, having read the topics with interest for quite some time.

I think that the reason why cap toe oxfords appear so "popular" in evening wear is simply that most men own a pair, and not as a result of some conscious decision to favour them on such occasions.

The support for black, non patent wholecuts seems to be from those who want to purchase a pair, and this opportunity to wear them provides them with an excuse! Not a bad thing, but still not correct.

I personally feel that toe cap oxfords of any description have no place with a dinner jacket. I wear patent oxfords sans toecap.

[here2learn]

First post (please be gentle)

As I understand:
Patent leather should generally never see daylight.

WHITE TIE (Evening wear, only day use is on your way home)
Pumps with a bow, always in Patent Leather, or
plain oxford always in Patent Leather

BLACK TIE/TUXEDO/DINER JACKET (Traditionally a dress down from White Tie)
Pumps with a bow in Patent Leather ((indoor) after 6 o’clock) (overdressed?), or
plain oxford in Patent Leather ((indoor) after 6 o’clock), or
pumps with a bow, in suede? (Dress down, remember?)
Plain oxford with a high shine,
most casual acceptable would be plain oxford with cap toe.

No brogues!
Derby’s are for business or casual wear!