Suit colours: Grey vs blue shades?

[kolecho]

There seems to be more shades of grey that are acceptable for suiting than blue. For example, a light grey suit looks great, but shades of blue that are lighter than navy can't seem to make a great suit (in general).

Does it mean that a man's suit wardrobe would inevitably end up with more shades of grey than blue?

[Richard3]

I generally agree that there may be more shades of grey suitable for business. Nevertheless lighter blues than navy such as blue-gray (think CG in North by Northwest) can be very appealing too.
Such lighter blues may not be that classic as navy but who cares?

[DD MacDonald]

lighter blues than navy such as blue-gray (think CG in North by Northwest) can be very appealing too.
Such lighter blues may not be that classic as navy but who cares?

For me, the CG suit in North by Northwest is a grey suit, albeit with a bluish or even greenish cast. The question with greys is like that with black - there is rarely a "true" version that is visually exciting. Blacks can have a red/brown or blue cast with the blue-blacks appearing blacker in sun light (ergo the call by some for a midnight-blue cloth for a dinner suit). With greys, the question for me is the brownish or the bluish with its undesireable purple (mauve) and greenish cousins set aside. Given this choice, I generally steer towards the bluish.

As for "baby blue", no thanks (though seersucker has an appealing seasonality to it).

The French and petrol blues? I'd be open to learn.

DDM

[TVD]

I think both blue and grey suffer from rather particular issues when chosen in medium shades of darkness:

Blue is a cold colour. This is not too apparent when one choses a dark shade. Paler shades can have a rather strong impact on the audience. This is fine in the sun drenched landscape of Southern climes, but in the dreary grey of the Northern hemisphere it can be a bit de trop. I have never liked Air Force blue, and mostly observe it on those who arrive from hotter countries. It just does not work for me. Maybe if I lived in South Africa, Hong Kong or Australia, I would be much more in favour of it.

Grey (and I mean pure grey, a mix of black and white, no colour) is interesting in dark or light shades, which both look dashing and elegant. But the middling shades can have an immensily dreary look. The way English Physicians and accountants dress comes to my mind. There are several solutions in my opinion: add sheen (e.g. mohair or silk fabrics), add depth (herringbones or nailheads where the grey results from a mixture of black and white threads), add contrast (e.g. a check or line pattern), or add colour (e.g. that famous Cary Grant suit in North by North West). Or a mixture of the above.

Also, in my view it helps to pair dull fabrics and clear cut shapes (e.g. dark grey sharkskin with a military Savile Row cut) and sharp fabrics with a more relaxed style (e.g. navy pinstripe with a Neapolitan cut).

[dopey]

Also, in my view it helps to pair dull fabrics and clear cut shapes (e.g. dark grey sharkskin with a military Savile Row cut) and sharp fabrics with a more relaxed style (e.g. navy pinstripe with a Neapolitan cut).

What interesting and thought provoking advice. I am not sure I am comfortable messing around too much with cut, but I would take your main point and apply it to detailing instead. For example, I am considering as a possible next commission a summer-weight suit, and would choose a simple tropical worsted or mohair blend in a solid color, but would detail the suit with lapped trouser seams, patch pockets and a Neapolitan shoulder. On the other hand, my in-progress suit is a very rich and interesting saxony, but the suit is styled very simply (except for the lapelled vest, which I cannot forego).

[DD MacDonald]

......but the suit is styled very simply (except for the lapelled vest, which I cannot forego).

Amen on the lapelled vest brother Dopey. Not so sure about the patch pockets on a suit, though.

This is an interesting discussion - the effect of sunlight on color palette. I totally agree, the further South one goes, the lighter the approriate suiting choices become.

DDM

[manton]

Patch pockets look wonderful on certain summer suits. (Not dark worsteds, I don't think.)

Slate blue (with a dull, grayish cast) is about the lightest blue I can imagine wearing, apart from seersucker. But I have a length of dove gray that I will not hesitate to have made into a 3-piece suit.

[iammatt]

......but the suit is styled very simply (except for the lapelled vest, which I cannot forego).

Amen on the lapelled vest brother Dopey. Not so sure about the patch pockets on a suit, though.

This is an interesting discussion - the effect of sunlight on color palette. I totally agree, the further South one goes, the lighter the approriate suiting choices become.

DDM

I think with both coloration and detailing, you need to separate a business suit from a casual one. I think patch pockets can look amazing on a light colored flannel, as long as it is a suit, but I would not have them on a navy stripe. Certainly POW plaids can look great either way, depending on whether the cloth is a crisp worsted, or a cashmere flannel. I am no great fan of double breasted suits with patch pockets, but I have seen some that look very good.

Colors should be treated the same way as details. If I want to have an elegant lunch in Capri or Positano, there is no reason that I would not want a lighter blue suit. I would think that in Rio or Havana I would wear an ecru linen. One of the most beautiful casual suits I have ever seen is a venetian cloth unlined. It almost looks red in the sunlight.

While dark blue and greys are unquestionably correct, they are much less than interesting outside of the city. Clothing should be equally funa s it is correct. There are many ways to have fun without venturing into the areas where you look like a buffoon.

[DD MacDonald]

Manton and Dopey,

Thinking on the subject of patch pockets, just not on a business suit. Now, a casual suit in a warm climate where lemons grow. I get it. DDM

[alden]

For me, the CG suit in North by Northwest is a grey suit, albeit with a bluish or even greenish cast.

Just happened to see the film last night and can confirm that Grant's suit is a lovely grey/blue. You can see it clearly in the scene when Thornhill goes before the judge to explain his drunk driving. Standing next to Grant is his attorney who is dressed in a mid-grey suit. The difference in color is clear.

I had always thought the cloth to be flannel, but on video reply it looks like a mohair blend. In any case it is a beautifully cut garment.

Cheers

[filangieri]

Interesting topic.
My point of view on the eternal contest between blue and grey suits is quite simple: I have a 70% majority of grey suits in my fall-winter closet and a similar predominance of blue suits in my summer arsenal.
IMHO, the seasonal approach is the most logical solution to our problem: grey looks so much better in heavy-weight flannels, worsteds and cheviots, while blue is just about perfect under the sunny summer skies.
I totally agree on the exquisiteness of blue-grey shades in any season (in the appropriate material) and I couldn’t live without the sophisticated, old world allure of light grays and dove greys (in fresco or mohair and wool blends) for spring-summer wear.