Detachable lining in a bespoke jacket

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-Honore de Balzac

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kolecho
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Tue Jan 24, 2006 3:26 am

As far as I am aware, jacket lining is not removable, be it in RTW, MTM, or bespoke. I am exploring the idea of making the bottom half of the back panel lining detachable. I would like to get more use out of my favorite 10oz suits over the summer, if only I could devise a removable lining.

Has anyone seen this done in a bespoke jacket before? Pictures would be great! Thanks in advance.
Mr. Rover
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Tue Jan 24, 2006 12:38 pm

I think a removable lining would affect the drape too much.
You'd be better off getting skeleton lining or 3/4 lining.
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TVD
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Tue Jan 24, 2006 1:30 pm

I have only seen detachable linings in raincoats. They are either zipped or buttoned into the coat. The detachable part looks like a long waistcoat.

I am sure you could have a vest-like separate garnment made, to be buttoned into the coat to add warmth. The jacket would have to be unvented, otherwise the construction would become difficult / visible. The location of the (hard) buttons is an issue.

However, I think it would be easier to have said suit made as a thre piece and not wear the waistcoat in summer.
Costi
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Tue Jan 24, 2006 4:39 pm

I suspect what our friend kolecho is after is actually the possibility of getting less warmth out of a suit rather than more of it :) In my opinion buttons are out of question because, as TVD suggested, they are sure to bother the wearer no matter where you sew them on the side seams. Plastic zippers tend to be stiff, metal zippers would add weight, too. You might try with a thin velcro band (not the most elegant solution, I must admit) sewn on the inside to the "permanent" pieces of lining and to the turned-up bottom, but its contour might show through the cloth on the outside and it might also ruin the drape. I suppose the least "artificial" solution would be to take the coat every autumn to a tailor to actually hand-sew the bottom half pannel to the rest of the lining and respectively take it out yourself every spring.
However I agree with Mr. Rover that the presumed added warmth of the bottom half of the back pannel lining does not really justify the trouble of devising a detachable one. I think you could just a well make the coat without it and wear it as such all through the year.
iammatt
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Tue Jan 24, 2006 4:59 pm

I prefer French facing because I think it breathes well in Summer and is warm in winter. I truly believe it provides the best of both worlds.
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