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Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 11:40 pm
by Frederic Leighton
Another wonderful gun-club. Food for thought for the LL Cloth Club. Photos and description HERE. Enjoy!

Image

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 12:36 am
by davidhuh
Great find Federico!

Cheers, David

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 3:07 am
by hectorm
Is it me?, or does the jacket indeed look much better in the black and white pictures?
Maybe it´s just because the form is no competition for Mr. Cooper. :)

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 8:14 am
by Frederic Leighton
hectorm wrote:Is it me?, or does the jacket indeed look much better in the black and white pictures? Maybe it´s just because the form is no competition for Mr. Cooper. :)
100% agree with that, but it must be because of the enhanced contrast of B/W photos (photo editing) and the deteriorated contrast of the original jacket (80 years of wearing, cleaning and dry cleaning).

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:16 am
by arch
I wonder how many of the old fawned over B + W photos enhanced the reality of a rather pedestrian patterns?

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:04 pm
by uppercase
No,the proper conclusion is that the man makes the clothes.

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:59 pm
by hectorm
Frederic Leighton wrote: 100% agree with that, but it must be because of the enhanced contrast of B/W photos and the deteriorated contrast of the original jacket.
uppercase wrote: No,the proper conclusion is that the man makes the clothes.
Well, I think you are both right.
Also notice that the jacket has totally lost its beautiful lapel roll, which I would say is the key element carried so well by Mr. Cooper in the B&W photos.

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 8:29 pm
by ballmouse
arch wrote:I wonder how many of the old fawned over B + W photos enhanced the reality of a rather pedestrian patterns?
It seems like to me the B&W photos actually show more contrast of the jacket's colors.

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 8:49 pm
by bond_and_beyond
The tailor is apparently called Basil Durant. A Google search turned up a 1932 issue of the New Yorker with the following quote:

"Basil Durant has the logical notion that a custom tailor might as well make clothes for swimming too, and is tak- ing orders for his own design of flannel shorts ..."

Flannel shorts for swimming? Interesting..

BB

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 11:20 pm
by emc894
ballmouse wrote:
arch wrote:I wonder how many of the old fawned over B + W photos enhanced the reality of a rather pedestrian patterns?
It seems like to me the B&W photos actually show more contrast of the jacket's colors.
I think the base is just yellowed from age.

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 5:52 am
by alden
It reminds me a bit of the City Gun Club in a bit larger scale without the blue windowpane.

Would be nice

Cheers

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 2:49 pm
by Melcombe
An interesting fit. It appears quite roomy around the upper arm. Very comfortable Im sure - it adds quite a degree of top weight to the silhouette which is quite flattering IMHO.

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 3:47 am
by couch
That's also a feature of most of the AA / Esky illustrations that isn't much commented on. The piped sleeve doesn't seem to have been much in evidence, especially with a drape cut. I've heard several people comment on the art of feeding a largish sleevehead into a smallish armscye, and I think the combination does give room for movement and adds, as you say, to a silhouette suggesting upper-body mass versus the nipped waist.

Re: Gary Cooper's Jacket, made in 1932

Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 7:56 pm
by C.Lee
Yes, a feature both masculine and elegant to the eyes, and comfortable for the wearer. Here is a fine example by Humphrey Bogart:

Image


Regards.