The Big Three and Rolex

Discuss travel, watches, gastronomy, wines, boats and all other aspects of the Elegant life
SJX
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Mon May 15, 2006 12:11 pm

Typically the 'Big Three' are Patek Phlippe, Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet.

What you write is generally correct, a Rolex is most likely more reliable and robust than any watch, sports or otherwise, from the other three brands. However, that is not necessarily a flaw. Watches from the big three are not made to be solely utilitarian objects for timekeeping, they are meant to be expressions of craft. A large proportion of the movement parts in such watches are hand finished, and the watches are assembled and regulated by hand, this inevitable leads to some error. Rolex in contrast does most processes by machine, it has some of the largest and most sophistication watch production facilities in the world.

However, watches from the big three are usually reliable and run well. Typically it is the more complicated pieces (rattrapante chronograph, perpetual calender etc) that have a greater chance of going wrong due to the sheer number of parts. If you were to compare like for like, ie. a Royal Oak/Nautilus/Overseas versus a submariner, they will probably perform similarly.

As for servicing, indeed repairing/seriving a watch from a haute horlogerie house does cost more than fixing a Rolex, again due to the increased need for hand work. It also takes a longer time, but then again Rolex has a superlative after-sales service organistion due to its massive size. Workflows in Rolex after sales are amazingly efficient, thus turnaround is quick. Rolex seriving usually takes a matter of weeks, while for the big three (from personal experieince), it is usually months.
Cantabrigian
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Mon May 15, 2006 12:29 pm

I think that SJX offered an excellent comparison of the two.

Rolexes are meant to be sturdy and run well. What they do, they do very well but what their focus is not incredibly complex, elaborately finished works of art.

If you only own a couple of watches, I would recommend the Rolex precisely for the durability and ease/ relative inexpensiveness of servicing. Rolex styling isn't exactly my cup of tea but if you like it, I think they make a good everyday watch. That said, you pay a bit more brand premium than you would for any watch other than Patek.
Guest

Mon May 15, 2006 11:52 pm

That said, I know Rolex calibers are manufactured by Rolex. What about the Big Three's sport watches? Which of the Nautilus/Royal Oak/Overseas are made in-house?
SJX
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Tue May 16, 2006 4:06 am

The Patek Nautilus is mostly inhouse.

Vacheron Overseas uses a Jaeger-LeCoultre movement, but finished to a high standard.

AP has many Royal Oak models, but the newest one uses the inhouse cal. 3160 movement. I like the aesthetics of the movement, particularly the rotor decoration of the AP coat of arms.
Guest

Tue May 16, 2006 11:15 pm

How much are the least expensive versions in stainless of each of these watches (I mean the amount one is likely to pay)? Also, I know a new version of the Nautilus is coming out, how different is that likely to be?
SJX
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Wed May 17, 2006 1:53 am

I am not exactly sure, but the three of them are in the USD10-12K region, thought I suspect the Patek is higher than the other two.

As for the new Nautilus, I have no idea what it'll be like, but it should be similar to the old one.
Guest

Wed May 17, 2006 11:11 pm

Can you comment on the rlationship of Breguet and Lange to the Big Three?
SJX
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Thu May 18, 2006 1:45 am

I'll try. :-)

Lange made waves when it appeared in 1994, finish was exceptional and it still is. In the early years many people compared it to Patek, some even wondered when Lange would overtake Patek as the premier manufacture. IMHO Lange has lost some steam in terms of innovative and attractive product development in recent years, but quality of the timpieces remains as high as ever.

Breguet is undergoing rehabilitation as part of the Swatch Group, it is now led by the irrepressible and dynamic Nicholas Hayek, founder and controlling shareholder of Swatch. Breguet has grown it sales volume tremendously and quickly since the Swatch Group takeover, watches like the La Tradition are immensely successful. The next few years will be very lucrative for Breguet.
Guest

Thu May 18, 2006 2:11 am

How do you evaluate "finish?" I am ignorent of watches. All I know is the accuracy of a watch and its durability. My Rolex scores highly in both regards. How doers an amateur of watches appreciate any watch? Does he look inside?
SJX
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Thu May 18, 2006 2:26 am

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... php?t=5784

He provides an excellent primer on watch finish. If you ever have a chance, examine a Lange and you'll realise why the movement finish is so highly regarded.
Dr T
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Wed Apr 09, 2014 1:58 pm

Ive just had two quotes for getting my Patrick Phillip serviced , £750 and £800. Its not due till next year but I'm staggered at the cost - more than getting the 911 serviced.
Wasser50
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Thu Apr 10, 2014 6:53 pm

Watch servicing is a con so don't fall for it if it's not broken don't waist your money.

I have collected watches for years with many 60 ish years old all keep good time and never had one of them serviced.

I once drops none of my britlings and the second hand came off floating in free around the dial? Britling wanted £150 to repair and insisted that they would only repair if they also serviced at a further £250! Went to a repairer on Maddox street in London where all the high end jewellers in berlington arcade and bind street take their watches (I got the contact from one of them who I've purchased watches from for decades) and was charged £20 ! That was 6 pr seven years ago and it's worked without problem since, BTW the watch was originally purchased in 1992.
Dr T
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Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:44 pm

Wasser50 Many thanks for the advice, Its in perfect condition and its time keeping is faultless.
Dr T
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Fri Apr 25, 2014 2:46 pm

SJX i fully agree with you comments on Lange - it would be my number two, second only to PP.
Dr T
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Wed Jun 18, 2014 10:09 am

Wasser50 can you provide me with either the name or address of the watch repairer please.
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