The London Lounge

Just how much adornment should a gentleman have? Is a seal ring or a wedding ring sufficient? Just how plain should cuff links be?
Does anyone still use tie pins/clips?

To my mind this is a bear trap for the unwary, particularly in the UK.

If you want to flaunt or even betray your social origins or aspirations, there's probably no better means of communicating that.

Anyone with a barrowload of cash can get good schmutter and the advice of a kindly tailor to point out oh-so-obliquely when crimson piping on your DJ might be un peu de trop?

When it comes to tomfoolery - there's no such braking mechanism.

Personally, I wear a watch and cufflinks with a double cuff shirt. I wear mainly a dress watch (a Nomos Tetra) for dressing up, a sports watch (Sinn 757) for being even vaguely sporty and an aviator (a Hanhart) for when I am having problems making my mind up.

When it comes to rings, I think that a wedding ring on ring or little finger is fine, possibly in addition to a seal engraved ring. Wedding bands always look the part - Ive always had some doubts about the Russian triple ring on a chap, but there we are.

As for a signet ring, plain 18ct gold is nice, and even nicer if it was inherited. Inset stones are, Im told 'suspect' although I think they are smart, especially sardonyx.

The ceramics expert Lars Tharp wears a carnelian intaglio in what looks like a Victorian skeleton mount. If you are an antiques buff, it does look the part, on anyone else maybe less so? Personally I have an aversion to the likes of Claddagh rings on men. Again, maybe its just me.

My favourite cufflinks are a pair of plain silver domed ovals, which I seem to have lost. To my mind, fussy cufflinks may point to the wearer being a cad. OK not for certain, but I do see the odds tumbling. I know Longmire's stuff is the sort of thing many city chaps or their wives and/or girlfriends will splash out on for that special birthday. Unless you are Elton John, fancier = riskier.

Plain gold ovals with surface engraved monogram or crest say "Im loaded, safe and tasteful" unless they are in 9 ct when they shout "arriviste". Id be happy with 9ct BTW until I find my silver ones...

So far so personal taste. As for some other items, Id expect widespread revulsion for

- Identity bracelet (unless you have advance Alzheimers and you really can't remember who you are)
- Elephant hair bracelet - even on the heir to a vast Kenyan estate
- Fancy flag lapel pin (unless you are a politician on a foreign trip)
- Necklaces. Oh, please. (These only look good on Sir Philip Green, but then IMO anything will look ok on a self-made billionaire)

Well there it is. Last time I passed such comment (in respect of tattoos on girls) I got myself flamed to a crisp, but some things are better said...

In full agreement -

Entertaining and largely on the money, in my view, Melcombe, especially the rogues' gallery of widespread revulsion.

I'd make some very slight allowances for eccentricity. My dress watch is a 1934 tank-style model with soldered lugs by Asprey (original third-party Swiss movement). The case is 9-ct. gold, but takes a beautiful polish. Tarnish is not a problem since I keep it in a corrosion-intercept bag (with a dried silica gel packet) when not being worn, so a wipe with a dry cloth after wearing is all it needs. Likewise my vintage flat oval cuff links are 9 ct., without engraving, and about the thickness of a U.S. penny. Nothing arriviste, unless to the sort of guest who upturns the china to read the marks. I only wear them in the evening with dark suits; more often I wear plain MOP or abalone discs, as in the photo of Cary Grant used on the cover of Flusser's Dressing the Man.

I also have a small late Victorian 18-ct. signet-style pinkie ring with some deep arabesque engraving on the flanks, and an inset stone. The stone is a flat piece of Afghan lapis lazuli, with a couple of tiny pyrite inclusions that give it interest. It was a gift from a long-ago admirer. As a former art conservator, I appreciate the totemic aspect of wearing ultramarine-blue-pigment-on-the-hoof, so to speak, as well as appreciating a lovely relationship. I wear this pretty much according to whim.

I would add to your rogues' gallery almost any large, heavy ring, unless an ancient heirloom or an attribute of office (these days, pretty much limited to ecclesiasticals, I presume). I have seldom seen any ring with a faceted precious stone that would be suitable on a gentleman. Here in the U.S., there are some men who wear bulky college class rings long after graduation and later have a diamond set in the center, thus achieving two gaucheries with one stone. One might as well wear a a 3-ounce gold horseshoe ring set with diamonds all around, as a Texas wildcatter I once knew did. But perhaps that approaches your self-made billionaire category, and one should make allowances.

Melcombe,

Bravo! Thanks

Cheers

For me, and I realize that this is personal taste, jewelry of any kind should be employed with much discretion. The only item I wear routinely is a simple wedding band and I probably would not wear this if my bride of 38 years did not prefer it. No watch, who needs one? No studs with formal wear for pleats and covered shirt placket are less distracting. No rings. Cuff links yes, but only for very dressy affairs such as a wedding or evening concert. Other items should not even be mentioned.

Good job nobody has mentioned ear rings

Just a good watch will do.
Why complicate life.?
I don't even wear wear cuff links any longer …just $10- silk knots. They keep the cuffs together just as well.
And even watches…a vintage Swatch also tells the time pretty well.
Rings…? yes, wore them at one time, briefly, and the few I had now sit in a drawer for the last 10 years where I plan to keep them and where they belong.…just not me.

Pocket watch?

Always use to have a pocket watch when I was in waistcoat mode. Regretfully no more waistcoats or pocket watch. It used to however; look very elegant.

I don't wear a waistcoat often either. An occasional sight is a man wearing a pocket watch in the breast pocket.

Love rings. Diamond, emerald, etc. But subtle and tasteful executions. And for occasional wear. Bracelets too. I have a favorite in white gold.

I've long admired extra flourishes like Astaire's 'bit' pin. He's seen wearing 'it' in many of his films and in many still shots. Look for it.

And there're lots of handsome and elegant double-sided cufflinks that catch my eye. Usually vintage.

The classically simple and thin gold (in your preferred shade) wristwatch (or pocket) holds much appeal too.

Etcetera, etcetera...

By contrast, my father preferred just a simple watch. No other accessories.

So, it's personal preference.

You are right it's all down to personal preference.

It took 25 years after I was married to wear my wedding ring which has not come off since. All other rings including signet/seal rings I consider suspect on men.

Watches on the other hand I am happy to play around with having four or five I use regularly: sporty, evening and everyday ones. Not to have a watch at all seems a little odd to me but perhaps people with clever phones they are looking at all the time do not need them.

Cufflinks I have plenty of all double sided in various metals and enamels including a pair with small diamonds at their centre for formal occasions (plus knots).

Dear Culverwood,

My in-laws were married for more than six decades. He never wore a wedding ring, for the same reason you mentioned...a dislike for jewelry on men. But hers has never been off her finger since their wedding day. Their love for one another was inspirational. (He passed away a few years ago.)

I wear a wedding band and like you have watches that I alternate between. My mother and her family appreciated fine jewelry and I think I may have inherited that penchant...to a certain extent. I'll occasionally wear a small ring with a stone, usually something with sentimental value, say, an item once worn by one of those family members that's now in my care. Rarely with a suit and even more rarely in a business environment. Typically with casual wear.

Exquisite items hold an appeal.

Cheers