You will enjoy Beirut.
Now that the government has collapsed and threat of violence looms, you will be lucky enough to have the city to yourself. The tourists have fled and it is now low season anyway. But the locals are partying like it's 1999.
One of the pleasures of Beirut is that you know that you are playing Russian roulette with your life.
Every time you walk in the street, maneuver between parked cars, or sit down in a popular cafe, your body will tingle with a sense of alertness to potential danger. The frisson is palpable and pleasurable.
Danger is not a distant and remote possibility but real. Armed security forces are everywhere. You will not likely be shot, probabilities favor being blown up by a car bomb. It is a part of Lebanon's history. Once you learn to ignore the potential violence, learn to push the possibility to the back of your mind, go back to enjoying your shisha (hubbly) and enjoy the Beirut experience. There's nothing you can do about; when your time is up, it's up. So relax. It's de rigueur to be fatalistic in Beirut.
Ofcourse Lebanon is shabby, rundown, overbuilt with unregulated, uncontrolled building . Quite an eyesore, generally. The unoccupied buildings in central Beirut are still pockmarked from 50 calibre guns. Try to ignore what Lebanon is and imagine what it once was. It was once wonderful and historic but is now just like so many sprawling cities which pollute the Mediterranean coastline. Reminds me of Napoli.
The show in Beirut is not menswear but women's. You will find the occassional man over 60 well dressed in a locally made bespoke suit but otherwise it is all RTW and most in dubious taste at that. Women on the other hand are a pleasure and spend more time beautifying themselves than God gives time. Every night is Oscar night in Beirut.
The nightlife and restaurants are wonderful, full of locals, full of returning expat Lebanese, the champagne flows, the finest Cuban cigars smoked, bottle service is $400 in the VIP section, there is alot of good live entertainment, a good vibe and joie de vivre. It goes all night long. Every night. Life is good in Beirut. Learn to dance the debbke and join in. Who knows what tomorrow may bring.
Three restaurants you should try for good Lebanese food:
Abdulwahab. A favorite, in the middle of Beirut. Crowded, lively, always busy. Go late. Ask for a table in the old, historic main room (not the glassed-in section bordering the street). Order a shisha and smoke between bites of hot, grilled lamb as the Lebanese do. Best at evening. Then go bar hopping in the immediate area.
Bourj al Hammam. Go the the branch in the Movenpick Hotel. Ask for a seat overlooking the Mediterranean. Plan to spend three hours and eat until you drop. Good fresh local fish. Smoke shisha. Get with the program. Drink arak or better, a nice Lebanese cabernet. Return to hotel room for a serious siesta. Best for weekend lunch.
Muhanna. If you are not yet sick of Lebanese food, go to to their branch in Al Jubail (Byblos) for lunch, about 45 min. drive from Beirut. A large, new, modern restaurant with beautiful view of a secluded bay. May be uncomfortably quiet in low season other than on weekends. Long tables meant to seat extended families. Feels too cavernous if you are alone. Ask to sit on outdoor terrace, overlooking the grotto, if open and the sun is shining. Order 2004 Chateau Ksara cabernet. Feel happy. Plan for the evening: a visit to the Casino du Liban or the clubs in the Christian enclave of Jounieh or back to the insanity in Beirut. Watch for the parked militia troop carriers, camouflaged by the overgrowth, as you leave Muhanna. This is Lebanon, baby. Between hedonism and hell.
Nightlife.
The choices are innumerable, depending on your mood, and the ebb and flow of the jeunesse doree and nightbirds. Every place has its time, mood and crowd, constantly shifting. But you will definitely find a place to your liking. Though you won't have enough days in Beirut to even begin to sample its nightlife.
If you want to start the evening in a sedate, elegant lounge for cocktails or, later, a nightcap, try the hotel bars which also often have live entertainment. Give the 360 Bar at Le Gray Hotel, Sydney's in the Le Vendome Hotel, or Hemingway's at the Movenpick Hotel a whirl.
Then off to a long, late, leisurely dinner. You'll often see extended families dining together. The elders, dressed to the hilt and bejewelled; the youngsters, well, still heavy makeup, hair dyed and done, dressed in the latest designer wear. Alot of plastic surgery here, basically nose, breast and lips. Though I've noticed that the younger girls are keeping what God has given them. I'm still considering the relative merits of each methodolgy.
Hit the spots with live entertainment, Lebanese style. Le Mandaloun, Music Hall, The Library. Don't eat here. Just have a drink and settle in. Then, later, off to the chill bars. Things start getting busy there from 1am. And if you want some place less polished, younger, simpler and more real, you will find that too.
BTW, the style in these night spots is to first reserve a table with your group before arriving. If you are alone, reserve a seat at the bar. There's really no such thing in many places of just sauntering in and standing around, drink in hand. So be sure to have your concierge first make a reservation for you before you go to any of these places because they won't let you in. Particularly if you are only guys. These places really do want guy/girl couples only and enforce a strict door policy. Your concierge can fix everything for you, however. Tip him well. A generous hand gets good results in Lebanon. Pay everything in US$; people don't really like the Lira.
You'll probably want to rent a Range Rover, the preferred weapon of choice, with driver to take you everywhere, day and night. Otherwise transportation is a real hassle and can spoil your trip, either because you can't find a taxi when you need it, or you'll just have to endlessly haggle over price every time you get in and out of a taxi. That gets old real fast. It really is worth renting a chauffeured car.
Finally, do try hard to meet the locals, not just the taxi driver, waiter or concierge. Lebanese are very friendly, very engaging and you will enjoy meeting them. Many are bi and tri lingual. Cosmopolitan people. They will be happy to meet you. If you can befriend someone to show you around, you're golden. Invite your new acquaintances for a drink or meal.
As to dress, note that tweeds, flannels and such are not allowed into Lebanon and will be confiscated at the airport. Just bring jeans and your dancing shoes. An unstructured Armani sports coat also has cachet. Untuck your shirt. Now you're dressed for Beirut.
Great piece! I am not sure it makes me want to go Beirut now, but it makes me want to read another city report (your Napoli was memorable, too). Seeing a place through someone else's eyes can be a richer experience than travelling. Many travel in an ivory tower on wheels, never experiencing the life and spirit of the place. You need to get in the right mood to feel the place, and dress is essential to it. Learn something new about yourself, too, when you travel - not just about the places you visit; for that we have encyclopedias.