Good razors

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Sator
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Sat Jun 14, 2008 10:16 am

masterfred wrote:

I thought about the Feather razor at one time, but the constant caveats anent their exceptional sharpness scared me off them completely.
I actually find that the reports are a bit exaggerated. They claim you need to use a different technique to a normal straight razor, that you should use a 20 degree or less blade angle, that you should use "negative pressure" etc. However, on my rather strong beard, I find I have to use a fairly normal straight razor shaving technique, including the application of a bit of pressure. Then again I have an unusually strong beard
Last edited by Sator on Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
masterfred
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Sat Jun 14, 2008 6:16 pm

I never wanted to go to the trouble and expense of acquiring a cutthroat, strop, honing stones and paste, and took the eas(ier) way out with a double edge razor used with Personna blades. I admit I do not use it daily, as I sometimes don't want the bother.
Bishop of Briggs
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Sat Jun 14, 2008 9:30 pm

I have to admit to being a convert to the Gillette fusion safety blades. They, together with Truefitt & Hill saving cream, give an excellent close shave. I have not used a styptic pencil or alum block in years!
Lister-Heathcote
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Mon Jun 16, 2008 8:24 pm

To disagree with Badger & Blade (which, by the way, is a most interesting site), I read a newspaper article recently (I forget the exact publication), in which a shaving expert was quoted as saying that the Mach-3 blades 'Were the best ever manufactured' (I was not aware thet there were shaving experts, but there you go), with the angle of the blades being perfect. I for one have always found this to be true, though I do admit to having had limited experience with rival brands.

Best Wishes,

Lister-Heathcote
Sator
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Mon Jun 16, 2008 9:42 pm

Mach-3 and Gillettes are absolutely awful. And I have tried them all. After shaving with a straight razor for a while, I tried a Mach 3 again because I had some old cartridges left. It caused such severe irritation that I had to stop after a couple of strokes and threw them straight in the bin. I had previously used them for a while, during which the skin had evidently gotten used to them. The main reason for converting to a straight razor was because the main stream commercial cartridge disposables were woefully incapable of producing any where near a satisfactory close shave. Now I find I cannot go back to cartridges. It is simply impossible.

Nothing produces a close a shave as a straight razor. I don't care what some industry sponsored "expert" claims. Everyone who is a regular poster at the B&B agrees. And my experience concurs with this too. Quality double edge razors are also superior.

I suggest you take this "expert" opinion to the B&B. The reactions you get will be similar to what you would get from posting here about how an "expert" claimed that Kenneth Cole shoes are superior to bespoke G&Gs.

The best shave from a disposable multi-blade cartridge will allow stubble to grow back by lunchtime which would take the next morning or longer to appear with a straight. Yes, it means that I do need an alum block - because of the frightful closeness of the shave.
Last edited by Sator on Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:46 am, edited 1 time in total.
RWS
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Mon Jun 16, 2008 10:06 pm

Sator wrote:. . . . Nothing produces a close a shave as a straight razor. . . .

The best shave from a disposable multi-blade cartridge will allow stubble to grow back by lunchtime which would take the next morning or longer to appear with a straight. . . .
True. But anaemia obliged me to seek a compromise between deadly straight and loathsome disposable, the safety razor. I doubt I'm alone.
Sator
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:47 am

If you use a truly shave ready straight you will get very few nicks or weepers. The reason is because the number of passes required are so few and the shave so effortless.

It is only with mediocre straight blades (ie 80% of them) which have not been quite honed/stropped to perfection that they will butcher your face. However, it is a pain to hunt for such rare special blades and to learn to sharpen them. That is why I often fall back on my Feather straight. It simply melts whiskers away in a manner that is simply magical.

For most people, a traditional double edge is the perfect compromise between convenience and what is still a fairly close shave.
Last edited by Sator on Tue Jun 17, 2008 4:37 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Sator
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 2:12 am

One other thing worth mentioning is the unquestionable aesthetic appeal of a fine straight razor:

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Costi
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 5:50 am

Exquisite objects! As I said before, half jewellry and half surgical instruments.
Sator, how long did it take you to learn how to shave with a straight razor and how did you avoid irreparable mistakes during the learning process?
Sator
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 8:11 am

Costi wrote:Exquisite objects! As I said before, half jewellry and half surgical instruments.
Sator, how long did it take you to learn how to shave with a straight razor and how did you avoid irreparable mistakes during the learning process?
It took a couple of months. I did it the hard way, and didn't read the links B&B I have provided in this thread properly first. Silly me. The stickies at Straight Razor Place are also good:

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forum ... razor.html

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forum ... orner.html

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forum ... ation.html

I do suggest a Wapienca as practice blades for stropping and honing. Also this video is excellent:

http://www.classicshaving.com/catalog/i ... 712226.htm

However, the info on the B&B and SRP stickies are plenty.

Some suggest getting an expert honer (so called honemasters) to hone your finest blade first so you know what a really sharp blade feels like:

http://www.classicshaving.com/page/page/578215.htm

The author of the video will hone it for you. However, you need to learn for yourself in the long term. My reference blade for comparison with a really sharp razor is the Feather straight razor. I have never had a blade sharpened by a "honemaster".

It is all really fun, if a bit expensive and time consuming.
Trey
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 1:33 pm

I purchased a Feather straight razor. How long should the disposable blades last?

Trey
Sator
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 2:19 pm

I find you get about 5 -7 days of shaving out of one Feather straight blade. I suggest reading the B&B reviews and tutorials carefully for discussion on the Feather and straight razor shaving technique in general. I think those with lighter beards need to use absolutely no pressure at all and a 20 degree or less blade angle.

The first time I was terrified, but it's not that bad.
RWS
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 2:44 pm

And an angle of thirty to forty-five degrees for those with thick, tough beards and tender skin?
Sator
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:09 pm

I think I have a very strong beard and I usually aim for a blade angle of about 20-30 degrees on my Feather - and any other straight razor. However, Joel at B&B recommends a different shaving technique for traditional straights and Feather straights. He thinks that with a Feather you should shave with virtually "negative pressure" with the razor barely touching, and a very narrow angle to avoid cutting yourself.

Lynn Abrams - the guy who runs Straight Razor Place once said something about 30 degrees or so being the ideal blade angle for a traditional straight razor. Until then someone had told me 45 degrees but I tend to agree with Lynn Abrams, as the narrower angle does usually make life easier.

This old barbar's text says that the sharper the blade, the narrower the angle:

http://www.en.nassrasur.com/razorcentral/shavrear.html

But it doesn't specify the angle. It makes sense that with a super sharp blade like the Feather (reputedly sharper than any traditional straight razor) you need a very narrow angle. However, discussion at SRP has suggested that the blade angle is dependent both on the blade and your beard ie experimentation is necessary.

I personally can get away with a very conventional straight razor technique with a Feather but I have seen one post at B&B where someone really butchered his face quite frightfully with one. He appears to have failed to modify his shaving technique. These beasts are extremely sharp - treat them with respect.
RWS
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 3:28 pm

If I experiment too much, I'll need a transfusion! (Though I wouldn't mind handling my handsome straight razor again.)

Thanks, Sator, for advice and links.
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