Sicily

[Melcombe]

I'm reporting back...

I'd like to have been able to say I went to Sicily in 2014 and have only just returned but the truth is more prosaic. The week before departure, my dear Mother died suddenly - so we cancelled. As is so often the case when generations pass on, the outcomes of that event have been less than straightforward and matters of are still far from settled.

This year however we made our trip and what will be, I hope, the first of many. In the event we headed south (initially) and visited the Baroque splendours of Noto, Ragusa Ibla and Scicli. We then went north to Etna (for a morning) and Taormina (for an afternoon - my limit in such concentrations of tourists) and then back south to Siracusa / Ortigia. Regrettably no chance to scope out the local tailoring skills - next time perhaps.

Everything we'd been told about it having undeveloped potential is entirely right. Off the tourist track, life is plainly very hard for most. Local people we met were reserved but very charming and welcoming. The weather for our week was very good indeed, 32 centigrade on a couple of days : locals in overcoats, us Brits in an explosion of linen and straw hats.

The roads and driving are something else : there was of course the normal Italian enthusiasm for lane discipline and speed control (i.e. none) combined with an edge of aggression I've not seen outside of a club rugby match. Motor insurance must be an art form there.

Very ordinary hotels seemed consistently pricey - although the most expensive were actually good value since they were very good indeed - so next visit will be courtesy of Airbnb, I suspect.

One other small point to mention. Back in 2014 I called Easyjet to claim back the airport tax - our unused tickets had been non-refundable. They inquired politely why we'd not made the trip and I explained. Without hesitation (or any contractual obligation) they refunded the full ticket price there and then. Great customer service and probably a sound investment, as we've used them at every turn since.

Regards,

[aston]

A Negroni on the terrace of the Belmond in Toarmina overlooking the bay at 18.00 is always rather a nice way of moving from afternoon to evening. Even better if you have two.

[Luca]

Going tomorrow!