London Dining Guide

[alden]

Dear Whittaker

Let's start the London Dining Guide as per your comments in the Dressing forum!

[whittaker]

I'm happy to get the ball rolling, Michael.

For fish in London there are two polar experiences. For classic English fish and chips, a meal quite as enjoyable as any Michelin meal if prepared with care and fresh ingredients, Fryer's Delight is unbeatable at 19 Theobald’s Rd. At the ritzier end of the scale, Wiltons in Jermyn Street and J. Sheekey in Covent Garden are hard to top.

At this time of the year, game is at its best. Rules in Maiden Lane may cliched but when on top form its game is wonderful. Where else to find well-hung (only a week or so now) hare, teal or grouse in town these days. The English have sadly fallen out of love with game but it can still be found.

We've had a thread running in another forum about good steaks in New York. London's a tough town for good steak. My preferred steak venue at the moment is Boisdale in Victoria. As London's best cigar and malt whisky haunt, Boisdale has much in its favour. (a perfect venue for a LL dinner). The Gaucho Grill in Swallow Street also provides better steak but I find the atmosphere lacking.

For French food, I rate Pied a Terre in Soho highly. It is not always consistent but when at its best it is exceptional. For genuine artistry, there is but one venue in London and that's Gordon Ramsay's eponymous restaurant in Chelsea. The latter would also get my vote as London's most elegant restaurant. If I wasn't married already, this is where I would request a maiden's hand.

I've plenty more to say on this topic but rather than let my cup runneth over I'll pause here and allow others some space.

[whittaker]

I've added a few more favourites but please appreciate that I reside in the country these days so I generally find out about that "new" place six months after everyone else.

Italian food in London is quirky. A favourite of Italian friends is Sardo in Grafton Way. Its quite informal but produces highly authentic food. Its sister restaurant Sardo Canale has the great food with more atmosphere but is out of the way. Cecconi's in Mayfair is perhaps a more obvious choice and serves fine cuisine. The clientele are not always beneficial to the atmosphere.

If you are looking for dim sum, Hakkasan in the west end serves a sophisticated interpretation but the real McCoy is to be found at New Loon Fung in Chinatown. However the two best Chinese restaurants in London are the Mandarin Kitchen (if you like seafood) and Royal China in Bayswater. Both are pet haunts of friends visiting from Hong Kong.

For French food, I'll add a venue to the ones mentioned in my last post and that's Club Gascon in Smithfield. I'd advise allowing 3 hours and go with the menu du jour with accompanying glasses of wine.

What are the places that are raved about but overrated? For me, The Ivy, St. John and Gordon Ramsay at Claridges.

The most underrated? Patterson's in Mayfair. Just don't tell anyone.

I hope Michael didn't intend this to be a monologue. Feel free to jump in.

[TVD]

I agree with Wilton's for fish and game. Best Lobster in town. Probably the highest percentage of bespoke suits per male customer of any restaurant in London.

Gordon Ramsay in Royal Hospital Road is excellent, but the room is too cramped and its destination status makes booking (even for regulars) a nightmare and the clientele often a bit odd. Ronan Sayburn is a great sommelier, Jean Claude Breton cannot be surpassed as the archetypal smooth French maitre d'hotel. Writing this reminds me that I have not been for far too long. The menu could change more often, by the way.

I ADORE Tom Aikens. It is modern (not usually my style, either in food or rooms), but I absolutely love it. The only place I touch the green stuff decorating the plates. A different dimension from anything else in London. And the room is spacious and makes you feel comfortable, no matter whether you come on a formal occasion, to seduce a girl or just because the fridge was empty. Gearoid Devaney (the sommelier) is an absolute star. Tom Aikens is one of the very few chefs at this level who can be found in the kitchen rather than on television. His menu changes where some others bore their regulars with the same signature dishes. They say it's a quest for perfection. I prefer to be amused, and respect and admire the courage and energy it takes.

The other Michelin starred places I like are Petrus (large tables, which can be useful), and the Square. Also one to remember when one feels willing to forgive it its erratically priced (anywhere between dear and a complete rip-off) wine list is Rousillon. Only went once to the Greenhouse. Competent, but I have not been back.

For Italian try Locanda Locatelli or Cipriani. The food is better at the former, the latter really is comfort food in glamorous surroundings. No other restaurant in London has a higher bodyguard/chauffeur to client ratio than Cipriani. Whether you like it or not seems to be correlated to your nationality (foreign), your wife (Russian), your car (Maybach), your yacht (in excess of 300ft with a helipad and submarine) and your hobby (horse racing).

One should never forget Racine for simple but outstanding French fare (the chef is actually English). An absolutely superb package, ideal for informal dinner or lunch between shopping.

I also like the relatively recent arrival Bellamy's (next to the Guinea Grill where Kaviar Caspia used to be). Simple well cooked English food (not modern, but modern style), excellent value, ridiculously low mark ups on the short but very well thought out wine list. The crowd is rather sound, most have known the owner Gavin Rankin from his days at Annabel's. Quite definitely U in Nancy Mitford's terminology.

For French tapas style I prefer Le Cercle to its elder sibling Club Gascon (pricey, ridiculously erratic service).

St John if you like the best ingredients (or scaring some squeamish vegetarians off their wits) simply cooked. Usually famed for its meat and offal, I found their fish superb, too.

The only pub I ever eat at is the Pig's Ear.

[whittaker]

I ADORE Tom Aikens. It is modern (not usually my style, either in food or rooms), but I absolutely love it. The only place I touch the green stuff decorating the plates. A different dimension from anything else in London. And the room is spacious and makes you feel comfortable, no matter whether you come on a formal occasion, to seduce a girl or just because the fridge was empty. Gearoid Devaney (the sommelier) is an absolute star. Tom Aikens is one of the very few chefs at this level who can be found in the kitchen rather than on television. His menu changes where some others bore their regulars with the same signature dishes. They say it's a quest for perfection. I prefer to be amused, and respect and admire the courage and energy it takes.

Oh. Yes, Tom Aitkens gets a big thumbs up. Only 3 weeks ago I ate there for the first time and had a splendid meal. Sketch-like in concept but with the ability to deliver great food (unlike Sketch).

St John if you like the best ingredients (or scaring some squeamish vegetarians off their wits) simply cooked. Usually famed for its meat and offal, I found their fish superb, too.

About St. John I remain unconvinced. I want to like the restaurant and have had some gutsy (literally) meals there but I'm not convinced it is any more than a bravura challenge for middle-ranking brokers.

[TVD]

St John is difficult, I agree. More likely to see fake intellectuals and gourmets there than brokers. Service can be attrocious (to call it slow would be an understatement), and over the five or so years I have been going I did not notice an upwards trend. Yes, you are right, it does tend to take itself too seriously.

But when it is good, it can be very good. Depends on one's mood and willingness to forgive, though.

[Cufflink79]

Greetings everyone:
All this talk about great food in London is getting me very hungry. I have heard that London is the place to go for good Indian food. I have recently started trying different food items and have had Indian food cooked by my Dad's college friend from Bangalore a few years ago, and it was really good. (My Mom says I can be a picky eater ) Does anyone have any good suggestions for Indian restaurants in London? Also, I enjoy a good dessert as well, where are good places to have a happy ending with your meal in London? One of these days I would love to get out to London, I have always wanted to visit since I was a little kid. Now that I am part of the LL I would enjoy meeting fellow LL members as well.

Best Regards,

Cufflink79

[bry2000]

Two very good Indian restaurants in London are Benares (Berkely Square) and the Red Fort (Dean Street).

[TVD]

Had a somewhat disappointing experience at Benares a bit more than a year ago. The only true excitement arrived with the bill. The rooms are rather stylish, though.

[david_carnell]

An Indian worth a visit is the Cinnammon Club. Excellent and very calming in atmosphere.

[whittaker]

The Cinnamon Club is pretty good. The atmosphere is arguably more interesting than the food.

Indian food is difficult in London. It depends on whether you're seeking the "real thing" or a Michelin-style experience. Both are available but the former means more adventurous travelling around London.

[alden]

The Guinea Grill, site of many LL London meetings, is an excellent pub. What are your choices for winebars and pubs in London?

[david_carnell]

Gordon's Wine Bar in Villiers St, just behind Embankment tube, is a wonderful place. It's down in a basement with steep stairs. It's very oldy-worldy with yellowing newspaper cuttigns on the walls and dripping candle wax. Dim lighting and dark nooks make for a very intriguing place.

The drink is limited to wine and associates (Port, sherry etc) with NO beers or alco-pop nonsense or spirits. A lot is on draft (!) from barrels from behind the bar and is very reasonable for some delicious tipples. A bottleof port and most of the day slips by with ease amonst friends in this favourite haunt.

[whittaker]

The Nags Head is worth seeking out. In Knightsbridge, at 53 Kinnerton Street, this pub has oodles of character and charm. Just the sort of place to while away an afternoon. There is no TV or jukebox and, mercifully, a rigidly-enforced no mobile telephone policy.

I've also enjoyed a couple of visits to the Lamb in Holborn (Lambs Conduit Street). An old Victorian pub but one used by Londoners. One of those pubs that has a core of regulars.

[david_carnell]

The Cow in Westbourne Grove is excellent for seafood and its Guiness is superb. Order the 'Cow Special' for a pint and 6 oysters. Pints of prawns at good prices and an upstairs restaurant away from the bar for a more upmarket but less enticing environment.