Shaving soap

[Frederic Leighton]

@ Frederic:
Internet being all shadows and mirrors, I can confess that I no longer use anything but water to wash my (head) hair. Drying wet hair with a towel is sufficient to remove excess oil, and the skin's secretion of sebum is stabilized at lower level than when one uses shampoo, which alters Ph and creates excessive dryness, dandruff, etc.

Robert, we share the same routine. Indeed, at the start of this year I also dropped the use of shampoo and conditioner with great results. In my experience, sebum levels were completely stabilized in about 5 weeks. I also use a pure-bristle brush (..very historical!), which is both fun and functional. When I had been into my new routine for about 6 months, one day and for no reason someone not aware of my habit commented it looked like I had more hair (not that I had any hair-loss problem before, but I found this feedback of some interest). Last, freeing oneself from the influence of cosmetic industry and ungrounded public opinion is an experience I definitely recommend.

[robert_n]

I do notice a little bit more sebum on shirt collars than with my previous soap/shampoo/conditioner regime, but that's dealt with in the laundry, the flipside is I don't suffer dry skin at a time of life when that starts to present a problem.

I've got a number of bristle brushes, but the one I most regularly use is this Japanese one. Tears to the eyes it's so prickly, but it helps get the lymph circulating and wakes me better than the Moka.
http://www.nytimes.com/imagepages/2010/ ... KIN-C.html

My foot regime (every alternate day) is soaking in tepid water and using this style of pumice stone on the hard skin:
http://www.newhealthguide.org/images/10 ... age002.jpg
Rubbing the softer part of the soaked feet with fingers will bring off layers of skin and give an immediate feeling of cleanliness and well-being. After this attention, I can wear a pair of socks all day, and, heavy manual-work notwithstanding, not find them malodorous when removed.

Your confirmation is heartening.

[patchmark]

Frederic and Robert, I thank you for your information. I have tried the cold water shave and after just once it seems to feel better than using hot water with my straight razor. Time will tell. I also have acquired a sisal and have been using that. I also might try removing the shampoo and conditioner and see how that plays out.

[Dr T]

I travel a lot and need to look very clean shaven for 15 hours at a time. I Use a shaving oil from Trufitt and Hill and then on top a shaving cream trufitt and hill or Trumpers limes. This blend seems to allow a vey close shave which seems to last, you can apply more pressure to the razor without getting small cuts. After washing when finished - i apply some face oil from Elimis, then a light spray of Jamican Limes -job done.

[bond_and_beyond]

I used to go for the clean shaven look, but realised eventually (also through feedback from others) that this is not a look that works for all facial types. Many, myself included, get a more "chubbier" looking face from being clean shaven. I now keep a slight stuble for this reason.

BB

[Frederic Leighton]

[..] I Use a shaving oil from Trufitt and Hill and then on top a shaving cream trufitt and hill or Trumpers limes. [..] After washing when finished - i apply some face oil from Elimis, then a light spray of Jamican Limes -job done.

Is that four bottles for one shave? ...I love the variety of the human habits!

One of my idiosyncrasies is - nothing stored in the bathroom; use only what you can carry in your hands in the journey bedroom-bathroom. Towel, solid soap, straight razor, shaving brush. I entertain myself with the cheerful idea of making life easy for who, one day, will find me dead in my apartment. Cheers!

[Dr T]

[..] I Use a shaving oil from Trufitt and Hill and then on top a shaving cream trufitt and hill or Trumpers limes. [..] After washing when finished - i apply some face oil from Elimis, then a light spray of Jamican Limes -job done.

Is that four bottles for one shave? ...I love the variety of the human habits!

One of my idiosyncrasies is - nothing stored in the bathroom; use only what you can carry in your hands in the journey bedroom-bathroom. Towel, solid soap, straight razor, shaving brush. I entertain myself with the cheerful idea of making life easy for who, one day, will find me dead in my apartment. Cheers!

Looks like it - on paper it looks a bit excessive - but it works very well

[Dr T]

Frederic, i hope you are still with us.I have tried to reduce the number of items - it was a disaster - I now have a deep cut on the chin - so its back to the old system, which I hasten to add can all be carried in two hands!

[Luca]

I thought that since this is about shaving I would avoid starting another, short-lived, thread.

My (probably idiotic) question is the following:

I have recently started shaving with a safety razor (the type that takes separate razor blades). Is it the case that, after the blade has become slightly dull, if I flip the blade over I can get more use out of it or does that not work?

[Melcombe]

I thought that since this is about shaving I would avoid starting another, short-lived, thread.

My (probably idiotic) question is the following:

I have recently started shaving with a safety razor (the type that takes separate razor blades). Is it the case that, after the blade has become slightly dull, if I flip the blade over I can get more use out of it or does that not work?

Not idiotic at all.

I fear the answer is that it will not give much additional mileage. Modern blades are made of really quite hard steel and when the edge is lost, it has gone completely. With blades of 50+ years ago, the steel was slightly softer and the edge effectively bent in such a way that it could be realigned by stropping (or maybe flipping over?) using the same principle by which a chefs / butchers knife is given a keen edge by using a sharpening 'steel'.

Many years ago I came across antique an matchbox sized device into which you put a dull blade, closed it and wound a crank handle that operated some (cork?) rollers that stropped the blade back to health. It really didnt work to much effect with modern blades.

Double edged razors are the answer to cost effective shaving. At least in real terms modern blades are significantly cheaper than 50 years ago. Bought in bulk they are very much cheaper - once you find one you get on with. Ive just discovered Astra blades from Turkey (via ebay) - cheap enough, but I also find them quite 'mild' compared to the Feather blades I had been using. The 'Israeli' Personna brand also get good reviews. Always best to buy a small selection for comparison first !

[Luca]

Thanks, Melcombe. At any rate, even without going to great lengths the blades are cheaper than cartridges and seem to shave as well or better. I bought the kit at "Taylor" on Jermyn Street and they recommended that as a "beginner" I should sue the medium-sharpness blades rather than the very sharpest .

[Melcombe]

That's sound advice. Even with medium sharpness blades you might find that they become more comfortable on a 2nd or 3rd use

'Feather' brand blades (from Japan) are renowned as the sharpest generally available. They work well in Feather's own super pricey razor and are fairly tame in an adjustable Merkur Futur razor. Danger of carnage without gentle handling though.

A D/E razor really needs no pressure - several gentle passes are to be preferred to one aggressive one - and the handle should be nearly perpendicular to the surface being shaved. Both of these techniques are quite unlike usual cartridge razor usage.

After a bit of practice, you'll wonder why anyone puts up with all that multi-bladed nonsense.

[Frederic Leighton]

Federico, I tried a cold water shave this morning and can confirm that my skin feels much smoother and less irritated today. [...]

Frederic and Robert, I thank you for your information. I have tried the cold water shave and after just once it seems to feel better than using hot water with my straight razor. Time will tell. [...]

Dear Rob O,
Dear Patchmark,

Are you still shaving with cold water? any long-lasting success in dealing with your old problems of skin irritation? I haven't changed my routine in some years now, sticking to cold shaves also during winter, when the motivation - as I don't have skin problems - comes from reminding myself how good it is to develop discipline

Please raise your hands who shares my love for this [ancient] definition of forbearance:
"Enduring all afflictions without reacting, free of anxiety or lament"

@ Frederic:
Internet being all shadows and mirrors, I can confess that I no longer use anything but water to wash my (head) hair. [...]

Dear Robert_n,

This morning, and for no reason other than curiosity, I had my very first attempt at dry-shaving. The neck only, as at the moment I have a beard. What a success! I was using my usual straight razor and quickly realised that you need to adjust the movements quite a bit, especially the pressure. Of course the blade doesn't move as smoothly as with soap, but I had my three passes including against-the-grain and ended up with a shave as close as usual and with no accidents or irritation. If you know how to keep your straight razor sharp(*), I recommend you give it a chance!

Best wishes,
f

(*) In addition to the usual stropping, I pass the blade on the palm of my hand after every few movements on the skin, as I also do when shaving with soap. This makes a lot of difference.

[andy57]

It's quite fascinating the different protocols we all use to achieve the same desired result, that being a smooth, irritation-free face.

I grew up using a safety razor and shaving soap applied with a brush. I would suffer from many nicks and scrapes, but the irritation from the razor was the worst aspect of that system. I used a straight razor for a while, a beautiful Solingen instrument, but I eventually learned why a safety razor was so called and why the straight razor virtually disappeared. Firstly, the shave was not especially close (I've never really gotten a close shave with a straight razor either myself or being shaved by a professional), but secondly, you can hurt yourself really, really badly with a straight razor. Nostalgia aside, I can see no reason at all to use a straight razor.

Twin-bladed and triple-bladed razors were a revelation, both in safety and smoothness. The current 5-bladed razors are a marvel. I get the smoothest shave I have ever had, by any method, with virtually no irritation, and no blood. I use a shave gel, to boot.

So while I'm sure that my failure to get a great shave using decades-old technology is entirely explainable by poor technique, I am consistently grateful for the products of the Gillette company.

[robert_n]

With regard to straight razor shaving, knowing how to strop is essential, and I often see it done wrongly on Youtube and various fora. The strop should be really taut. I use a Kanayama Llama strop of linen and Cordovan leather and I hold the end tightly with my hand behind my hip and resting on the pelvis bone, leaning back so that my bodyweight is brought to bear on the strop. This ensures that the edge is not distorted by any give in the leather or linen. I believe this is why many tyro straight razor shavers are unable to get or maintain a keen edge.