Good razors

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Sator
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 4:19 pm

I used to get a lot of nicks when I started. It turned out that the problem was that the blade wasn't shave ready fresh out of the box. I had a strop but rolled the blade over it when I turned. So, it wasn't sharp enough! And, I would have to use more pressure, a wider blade angle, and more passes (lots of bloody passes!). All of these factors contributed to a rather nasty experience.

When you learn to get a blade truly "shave ready" and use it on a well prepared beard, it's just so effortless. I use the "hanging hair test" of sharpness. I take a long strand of hair and softly dangle it over the blade edge - then you hear a gentle, bell-like 'ding' as the blade cuts clean through the hair (without splitting it). Whiskers melt away. You hardly get any more nicks than from a Gillette etc from the supermarket.

The trouble is that some expensive blades such as Dovos and Thiers-Issards are unusable for me.They may be pretty but they just don't have the magic touch. Wapiencas don't either, but at least they are dirt cheap. You hone and hone yet the shaving experience remains mediocre. Blades like some of those Wackers on the other hand, can be both easy to hone and strop to the point that they really melt whiskers. If you are lucky enough to find that special blade, that is.

Now I look forward to shaving. It is one of the most enjoyable parts of my day rather than a chore, as it used to be with a disposable cartridge. And if I go out that evening, I know I needn't worry about "5 o'clock shade". That term can be now be deleted from the vocabulary.
masterfred
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 4:51 pm

I find the whole straight razor shaving business interesting, but the learning curve necessary to achieve success is simply more time and labor than I am willing to expend on it. The cutthroat shaves I have received from a variety of barbers has, without exception, been inferior to the shaves I give myself with a double-edge razor. I have not found the desire for additional smoothness to be enough to warrant learning the intricacies of stropping, honing, and polishing. I do enjoy, when I have time, whipping up the shaving lather with hot water and mug. The exorbitant expense of some creams and soaps is another matter, however. :shock:
Swark
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Tue Jun 17, 2008 9:54 pm

i have been having a problem with shaving in that i just can't get the underside of my chin smooth enough, i use a mach 3, but i also have fair facial hair so i was wondering if its the razor or possibly just not rough enough hair to provide the resistance?
Sator
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Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:01 am

If I pick up my well honed and stropped (ie "shave ready") straight razor after the finest double edge shave, it is like I haven't shaved at all. This is with the best Merkur razor and Feather DE blades:

Image

But the key is that the straight razor must be shave ready, and be a top notch razor. If that is too much of an ask, then a Feather straight will provide all of the closeness of a straight razor with none of the hassles.

As for the chin being a difficult spot with a cartridge razor, that is fairly typical. The width of the razor cartridge makes them clumsy. It's even easier with a DE razor to get into every nook and cranny of the face. A straight razor gives you, by far and away, the most control and flexibility to get into difficult spots that any other type of razor can.
Last edited by Sator on Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:21 am, edited 1 time in total.
Swark
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Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:14 am

by straight do you mean cutthroat or the type in the picture?
Sator
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Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:05 am

The usual term is a straight razor. "Cut throat" was apparently an old brand name. It is also known as an open razor. This whole website is dedicated to the art of straight razor shaving:

http://www.straightrazorplace.com/forums/

The original disposable safety razor design from Mr Gillette has two edges and is referred to as a double edge (DE) razor.
Swark
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Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:08 am

thank you for clarifying, and for the website.
Costi
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Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:51 am

Swark, welcome to the Lounge! While the closeness delivered by a straight razor shave is unanimously appreciated by all those who know how to use one, I join Sator in recommending that you (1) ditch the Mach 3 (and this alone will make a huge difference) and (2) try a safety razor, whether a Merkur or another brand - the secret is mostly in the blade and the user's ability to handle the razor. Your beard may not require (or even stand) the more radical services of a straight razor (yet), not to speak of the difference in cost and developing the necessary skills. May I ask how often you shave?
Swark
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Wed Jun 18, 2008 2:37 pm

should shave everyday but like i said its fair hair so i dont really need to shave any more than every other day.
Costi
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Wed Jun 18, 2008 4:29 pm

Since you don't have a tough beard that grows very rapidly, then so much the more you can start (and perhaps continue) with a safety razor. Choose a good cream and a soft and full brush and you're all set for a pleasant experience. For a very succint (yet comprehensive) guide to a good shave, you may visit Trumper's advice page: http://www.trumpers.com/shaving_tips.cfm
Swark
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Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:02 pm

It's strange that you don't realise how much goes into a good shave until someone points it out to you.
Costi
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Wed Jun 18, 2008 5:41 pm

Swark wrote:It's strange that you don't realise how much goes into a good shave until someone points it out to you.
As with all good things...
Trey
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Thu Jun 19, 2008 1:48 pm

Gentlemen:

Is there a preferred brand of blades for DE razors? I currently use a Merkur razor and blades.

Trey
Sator
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Thu Jun 19, 2008 2:27 pm

As previously mentioned Feather blades are the sharpest bar none. Some find them too sharp.
BdeRWest
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Fri Jul 04, 2008 3:30 pm

Gentlemen:

While I cannot speak to the argument of Mach 3 vs. safety razors (or, perhaps, I do not wish to), I can offer my opinion of safety razor blades.

Personally, I enjoy shaving with Israeli Personna blades — the kind that come in a white box and have blue-and-white packaging (I believe they are referred to as "Personna Platinum." I cannot speak for the "red-pack" Personnas). I use the blades for a week, and shave about four passes per day. I change the blades and clean the razor on Fridays.

I have tried Gillette blades (but not the blue blades), and grocery-store blades (the brand of which escapes me). The Personnas are the sharpest — and most forgiving — that I have found.

I hope this helps. The address that follows will take those interested to a review of said blades on Badger and Blade.

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7815
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