Fine watches

[Gruto]

I'm no expert on watches at all, so please tell me, how do Patek Phillip, Rolex, Lange & Söhne etc. differ in terms of construction? Is it possible to group fine watches in some way or the other based on construction?

[HappyStroller]

So far, the watch industry is dominated by magazines full of commercial advertisements, industry sponsored articles and books which present watches based on material used or sophistication in design or manufacturing technology.

Personally, I define good men's watches by classifying them as:-

1. Dress watches
Dress watches are basically pretty quiet-looking ones; the slimmer the more elegant.
They range from watches which have to be wound, self-winding automatics to digitals.
In terms of technical sophistication, they may have just the hour and minute hands.
Better ones have the second hand. Even better ones have date, and even the day of
the week.
The most sophisticated ones have simple chronographs such as a separate, smaller second hand display.
A dress watch should be less than 1 cm. thick.
Of course, watches may be made of different materials - gold, platinum, titanium or plastic, etc.

2. Heavy-duty watches
Thicker watches which can withstand the shock of wearing them in rugged environments. They usually need to be thicker than 1 cm.

3. Jewellery watches
Watches overdecorated with precious, semi-precious or crystals.
Such watches may also fall into category 1, 2 or 4.

4. Watches for technical enthusiasts
These include highly sophiticated watches such as the very expensive Tourbillons and those with many chronographs. Such watches are usually pretty thick.

[Gruto]

So far, the watch industry is dominated by magazines full of commercial advertisements, industry sponsored articles and books which present watches based on material used or sophistication in design or manufacturing technology.

Yes, it's hard to find the watch behind heavy marketing. Most newspaper and magazine articles are sheer marketing as well. A shame, really. Thanks for the classification.

[gherrmann]

I am no expert in this department, and thus am sure others can speak more authoritatively, but my sense is that the general impression of the manufacturers you mention is that patek and lange are thought to be more finely wrought or elegant in their construction (with respect to the movements as well as outward manifestations such as dials, cases, bracelets, etc.) whereas rolex is often thought to be more workmanlike or rugged in its construction techniques (particularly with respect to movements). put differently, one might say that rolex movements are built to perform, but not necessarily to be beautiful. patek and lange typically are thought to involve construction techniques that elevate the beauty of a watch's inner workings in ways that have no bearing whatsoever on performance (N.B., this is by no means meant to suggest that their movements are of poor technical quality). that patek (on many models) and lange (on, I believe, all models) feature "exhibition" case backs that expose the movements under a second crystal, while rolex rarely if ever does so, perhaps indicates that this understanding has some grounding in reality.

put yet another way, all three are typically thought to be fine, high quality time pieces, but rolex is perceived as falling a bit further toward the "watch-as-tool" end of the spectrum; patek and lange, in contrast, are perceived as falling a bit closer to the "watchmaking-as-art form" end of the spectrum.

of course, insofar as this is a generalization I suspect that it could be disproved or, at a minimum, disputed at least to some degree.

Regards,

-gabe

[bluscuro]

If we can entice him to hold forth,our fellow forumite, Mr.Peter Chong is possibly the most informed on matters of fine timepieces. His involvement in the industry afford him an "insider's view".
Peter is a contributing editor to the on-line publication "Goldarths Review".

Kind regards,

bluscuro

[Cantabrigian]

I tend to classify watches 2 ways - by whether or not I like them and by price, given a certain level of quality and non-quartzness.

[gherrmann]

If we can entice him to hold forth,our fellow forumite, Mr.Peter Chong is possibly the most informed on matters of fine timepieces. His involvement in the industry afford him an "insider's view".
Peter is a contributing editor to the on-line publication "Goldarths Review".

Kind regards,

bluscuro

I believe Mr. Chong is also an avid Lange und Soehne enthusiast and even moderates the Lange page on a prominent WIS forum.

[RWS]

So he might be a bit biased? Nevertheless, I find his contributions informative and enjoyable.

My own criteria: inherited are best, mechanical is necessary, visual attractiveness is important. Beyond that, I apply what little I remember from having once been an amateur watchmaker and try to determine the quality of the works. The label means little to me, though I would balk at buying a watch whose maker I'd never heard of.

[gherrmann]

So he might be a bit biased? Nevertheless, I find his contributions informative and enjoyable.

Just to clarify: my intent was not at all to suggest any bias on Mr. Chong's part, but simply to note that he might have knowledge of particular relevance to the question at hand. Assuming it is in fact the same Mr. Chong (which I presume to be the case), I would note that I have quite enjoyed many of his reports (and expert photography) on the aforementioned Lange forum.

Best &c.,

-gabe

[HappyStroller]

Mr. Chong's bias towards the highly technical watches is because his interest lies there. This is not surprising as the modern watches shows off the best in technology which many younger gentlemen find fascinating.

He's the right one to enquire about Lange & Sohne watches, etc., I agree.

Personally, my interest in complications extend up to the Patek Phillippe Annual Calendar and perhaps traveler watches; how I wish the manufacturers will allow us to select the cities of our own choice without charging us the bespoke price.

[Miguel Antonio]

I think knowing about the founders may be a good idea before investing in a watch as expensive as those.

Rolex was founded by Hans Wildorf.



A. Lange & Sohne by Ferdinand Lange.



Jaeger Le Coultre by Antoine LeCoultre



Patek Philippe by

Adrien Philippe


Anthoni Patek

[rjman]

I think knowing about the founders may be a good idea before investing in a watch as expensive as those.

Are you implying Princess Leia-type hair blobs are some sort of prerequisite to founding a watch brand?

[pvpatty]

I think knowing about the founders may be a good idea before investing in a watch as expensive as those.

Are you implying Princess Leia-type hair blobs are some sort of prerequisite to founding a watch brand?

It's all in the beards.

[Aristide]

I think knowing about the founders may be a good idea before investing in a watch as expensive as those.

Rolex was founded by Hans Wildorf.



A. Lange & Sohne by Ferdinand Lange.





Jaeger Le Coultre by Antoine LeCoultre



Patek Philippe by

Adrien Philippe


Anthoni Patek

Of what material significance is this information to one's current day decision?

[Miguel Antonio]

"Are you implying Princess Leia-type hair blobs are some sort of prerequisite to founding a watch brand?" rjman

That and being human. As far as I know cats are not allowed to found or operate a watchmaker.

"It's all in the beards." pvpatty

Beards are supossed to inspire respect.

"Of what material significance is this information to one's current day decision?" Aristide

It helps you make a significant decision instead of a superficial or utilitarian decision.