RIP Jean-Claude Vrinat

[Robert Watkins]

Mr. Vrinat, owner of the restaurant Taillevent, died Monday. As many have said, he was probably the last of the great restaurateurs, in the tradition of Vaudable and Terrail (as opposed to the chef-owners now favored by the Michelin guide).

Along with thousands of others, I was introduced to fine French dining in the restaurant to which Mr. Vrinat devoted his life. The warmth of the greeting and the perfection of the service on that first visit 25 years ago remained a constant which drew me back to Rue Lamenais on a yearly basis.

Certainly, it is possible to find restaurants in Paris where the cuisine is more exciting and the clientele more sophisticated, but Taillvent always remained an oasis of "luxe, calme et volupte." Mr. Vrinat was not really interested in tasting menus, much less "molecular gastronomy." I think he really loved wine more than food, and in the depth of his wine list, the restaurant is truly incomparable.

I dined there in March 2007 on the day that the Michelin guide was released in which he lost a third star after more than 30 years. Not a hint of anything amiss. The restaurant was full, and the experience was delightful. I was there again in November, and Mr. Vrinat had aged dramatically and appeared ill; there was a slight feel of tension in the air that I had never picked up on before. The sad news did not come as a surprise to me.

I extend my condolences to the Vrinat family annd his equipe.

Robert

[R. Rafael]

I must now forgive Monsieur Vrinat for seating me upstairs in the tourist room. Sorry to hear this.