Rome?

[rjman]

I am thinking of going to Rome in the winter between Christmas and New Year's with my girlfriend, and never having been there before, am wondering if people can suggest a nice occasion restaurant,great cafes, a nice place to stay and if there's any particular shopping recommendations beyond Battistoni and Merola. The Ripley in me wants to stay in the Inghilterra, but I'd welcome suggestions for hotels of charm and value as well. Does anyone have any experienve with the Lord Byron?

[preobrazhensky]

There is no shortage of restaurants. There are difficulties in choosing one to visit. There are many very smart and very expensive starred restaurants, and most of the top hotels have one. The guides seem to consider La Pergola on the rooftop of the Cavalieri Hilton to be the best at the moment. At a similar level there is Il Caminetto, Cantuccio, Camilluccia (all with websites). But most Romans will have a local favourite, and here you would expect more typical cuisine and also be able to comfort yourself with the notion of having a real Roman experience. There are many of these, and it really depends on what area you stay in as to which you might frequent. In the center, Settimio al Pellegrino is reliably good and homely, and on Via Monserrato there are quite a view notable trattorie. If you are in Trastevere then Augusto is the most typical, and is so cheap it is almost free, though wine is a problem and you will be rushed out as soon you finish to aid with the queue. Il Moro near the Trevi fountain is very very good, though a little more famous and less of a discovery. For fish La Rosetta al Pantheon is famous and well liked. Also head to the Ghetto and try the local Jewish dishes, though none of the restaurants there are as good as they ought to be; I think the tourist trail has diluted the dedication to quality and hiked up the prices. Still, seek out the bakeries, gelaterie, enoteche, pizzerie in the ghetto and you will not be disappointed.
For pizza, try Pizzeria ai Marmi on Viale Trastevere, it is an experience. Da Baffetto is very famous, pretty good, and conveniently on the tourist's path. However, it is hard to find bad pizza, and most smaller pizzerie, particularly when in quieter locations, will be pretty good, often better than the most famous.
Regarding areas to stay, it really depends what sort of holiday you are looking to have. Around the Pantheon is a very convenient central location with easy access by foot to all sites and a vast array of caffeterie, restaurants and bars. Perhaps towards the Santa Maria sopra Minerva end. Around the Spanish steps is the traditional location for the elegant traveller, but I'm sure it is not what it was; there is an ever-present swarm of tourists forcing its way through Via Condotti, and many local boys preying on the innocent daughters of foreigners lurk ominously on the steps. It is still of course a very attractive option and you would not be disappointed. Trastevere would be a daring choice. Slightly further out of town but less touristy, it has an air of decay, but has very vibrant street and nightlife, and many great restaurants. For true quiet head for somewhere near Villa Borghese, but not too near the main road.
The sites are fairly obvious as you cannot help stumbling upon most. Don't miss the Pantheon, or the Vatican museums (make sure to see the pinocateca and classical sculpture museum as well as the Raphael stanze and Sistene Chapel). The Villa Borghese has the best painting collection in the city and should not be missed. The Doria Pamphili gallery also has many great things, most notably Velasquez's Innocent X. The Villa Farnesina has Raphael's Galatea fresco, which is an absolute masterpiece, and the building itself became the model format for the renaissance suburban villa. For architecture do not miss the Capitoline square. It is behind the hideous and enormous Vittorio Emanuele monument, and was completed to Michelangelo's design. The Villa Farnese, behind Campo de' Fiori is wonderful, particularly when lit at night when you can glimpse the Carracci frescos inside. Bramante's Tempietto is rightly revered, and, if you are lucky enough to pass by when the neighbouring church is open, it contains a great Sebastiano fresco. It is easily reached from Trastevere, where Santa Maria in Trastavere is worth a visit for the mosaics alone. San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane on the Quirinale is a personal favourite, and is Borromini's masterpiece. I'm sure you will visit St Peter's anyway. San Clemente, just past the colloseum is a very beautiful and ancient church, built upon an excavated Mithraeum, which is rather creepy to explore. It has great Masolino frescos too. Santa Costanza, just off Via Nomentana, is the very beautiful mausoleum of Constantine's daughter, and contains amongst the earliest examples of official Christian art.
I could go on and on... these are very personal suggestions and there is much more.
As far as shopping is concerned I'm afraid I can't help!
Hope this is of some use.

[iammatt]

The d'Ingleterra is certainly a comfortable hotel and it has some charm. However, a lot of that charm evaporates wehn you step out of the doors right in to the center of the shopping district. If your inner Ripley would like the d'Ingleterra, your inner James Bond might prefer the Hotel Ripa. It is a very cool looking modern hotel that has an interesting feel of the sixties and seventies. It also has the advantage of being in the Trastavere where you are more likely to find good, authentic cafes and restaurants than in the Piazza di Spagna area.

Money being no object, I prefer the Eden Hotel. The location is both secluded and close to everything. The service is superlative. The restaurant is well thought of, but not very good. The bar has a fantastic view of the entire city and is worth going to even if you do not stay there. The hotel makes my very short list of favorite hotels in the world.

I have always eaten very well in Rome, but have never found a favorite place. One simple restaurant that we have enjoyed very much is Marcello. Your hotel will likely know where it is, as I cannot remember. It was suggested to us by a fried who visits Rome on business several times a year. We actually ate gnocchi there on Thanksgiving night during our honeymoon. The gnocchi is only made on Thursdays and is very good.

Shopping in good, but not entirely different from any other city in Europe. I have never used a tailor there, but Uppercase (whose suggestions I find excellent) swears by Caraceni. Gatto was recently purchased by Silvano Lattanzi. I can't imagine that quality will go down, but who know what it means overall. The Eddy Monetti store in Rome is very nice from what I recall.

[chelsea]

On my last visit, I asked the hotel (Westin Europa) for the name of a good shirt shop. They recommended Dans and I bought a couple of wonderful coloured shirts and some ties. They are always being favourably commented upon when worn.

[TimMureau]

On my last visit, I asked the hotel (Westin Europa) for the name of a good shirt shop. They recommended Dans and I bought a couple of wonderful coloured shirts and some ties. They are always being favourably commented upon when worn.

Do you have a website of this hotel for me?

[TimMureau]

www.eziopellicano.it

Nice tiemaker.

[TimMureau]

Can anyone advise me a good shirtmaker without Battistoni.

[alden]

Sabatini
Via Flaminia 111
Roma

Give her my regards.

[TimMureau]

Sabatini
Via Flaminia 111
Roma

Give her my regards.

Thanks a lot!
What is the price range of Sabatini?

[JMGM]

I go regularly to Rome where one can find an exceptional blend of deals in cloths, eating and museums. Just to name a few:
Clothes and shoes: try La Rinascente for great quality shirts at about 40 euros and cashmere pullovers for about 100 euros (the usual price is 3 to 4 times this price). Try Andrea Fabiani for real good quality all leather shoes for just 45 euros. For ties the best deals are at RoxyTies, for just 15 to 20 euros each tie grab all you can from this beautiful classic silk ties collection.
Eating: Insalata Rica just 20 meters from Piazza Navona for real great pizzas and fabulous Restaurant Cannavota in front of San Giovannai in Laterano Church where the walls are filled with paintings and awards.
Museums: visit some of the best in the world. I visited already 18 and have not finished. Try Galeria Borghese, the best private gallery of the world, Capitolini Museums, in the fabulous Piazza Campidoglio designed by Michelangelo and Vatican Museums. Just these 3 museums are a lifetime experience!
Hotels: try to stay right in the middle of everything, in the Piazza Rotonda where you can enjoy the beautiful experience of the direct view of the best preserved and most beautiful monument in Rome, the Pantheon.
Just one more tip. From the airport, do not get a taxi or train. Make a reservation for a new Mercedes-Benz to wait for you at the international arrivals and for 50 euros (less than a taxi) get a safe and comfort ride for up to 4 people and baggage to your hotel with www.airportconnection.it/.

[TimMureau]

I go regularly to Rome where one can find an exceptional blend of deals in cloths, eating and museums. Just to name a few:
Clothes and shoes: try La Rinascente for great quality shirts at about 40 euros and cashmere pullovers for about 100 euros (the usual price is 3 to 4 times this price). Try Andrea Fabiani for real good quality all leather shoes for just 45 euros. For ties the best deals are at RoxyTies, for just 15 to 20 euros each tie grab all you can from this beautiful classic silk ties collection.
Eating: Insalata Rica just 20 meters from Piazza Navona for real great pizzas and fabulous Restaurant Cannavota in front of San Giovannai in Laterano Church where the walls are filled with paintings and awards.
Museums: visit some of the best in the world. I visited already 18 and have not finished. Try Galeria Borghese, the best private gallery of the world, Capitolini Museums, in the fabulous Piazza Campidoglio designed by Michelangelo and Vatican Museums. Just these 3 museums are a lifetime experience!
Hotels: try to stay right in the middle of everything, in the Piazza Rotonda where you can enjoy the beautiful experience of the direct view of the best preserved and most beautiful monument in Rome, the Pantheon.
Just one more tip. From the airport, do not get a taxi or train. Make a reservation for a new Mercedes-Benz to wait for you at the international arrivals and for 50 euros (less than a taxi) get a safe and comfort ride for up to 4 people and baggage to your hotel with www.airportconnection.it/.

The website:
http://www.roxyties.com/


The ties that showing on the website looks beautiful.

[rjman]

Thanks for all your suggestions.

Can anyone suggest something nice/romantic for New Year's? I think both my girlfriend and I are pretty low-key, so anything from a nice place to have a glass or two of champers to any other ideas are welcome. We'll be staying at the Inghilterra...

[filangieri]

To eat (and drink) well in Roma you don’t have to spend a lot (unless you want to).
Since anybody can read online or paper city guides to find information about the most famous places, I would like to provide the LL community with a list of personal favourites in the “moderately priced” category.
TRATTORIE:
Gildo (Via della Scala, Trastevere district), Campana (vicolo della Campana), Checchino (Testaccio area), Cadorna (via Cadorna) and Vladimiro/Marcello (near the Via Veneto) for traditional, tasty Roman dishes like gnocchi alla romana, pasta e fagioli, mezze maniche alla carbonara or alla gricia, rigatoni con la pajata, pasta alla vignaiola, carciofi alla giudia, coscia d’anatra impanata e fritta, ecc.
PIZZERIE:
Pizza Re (via Oslavia, Prati district), Ciro Pizza (via della Mercede, city center) and Rosso Pomodoro (corso Francia) for excellent (and original) Neapolitan pizza and pasta.
None of the places in the above list are particularly classy or romantic, but I’ve never had a bad meal in any of them.

[alden]

If I were you I would print Filagieri's list and keep it for a next trip to Rome.

[filangieri]

Just a side note before anyone prints the list !
The most traditional Roman dishes are far from sophisticated, and are actually based on very poor, “earthy” (some people even say “disgusting”) ingredients.
Just think that the real “piece de resistance” of the local trattorie is the so-called “quinto quarto” (literally: the “fifth quarter”).
The “quinto quarto” consists of every part of the beef/swine/fowl that is usually left over for the poor people to eat after the best cuts belonging to the regular “four quarters” of the butchered animal are sold.
Therefore, the “quinto quarto” includes delicacies such as the “trippa” (veal tripe), the “pajata” (baby veal or lamb guts, including the digested milk left inside the intestine), the “animelle” (baby veal or lamb endocrine glands), the “coratelle” (baby veal or lamb hearts, lungs, spleen and livers), the “fegatini” (chicken livers), the “coda” (cow’s tail) and so forth ... the limit is your imagination !