boutique watches

[edhayes]

the content of this forum is very high, watches are very much a matter of taste, personally, I can't read all the dials on a very complicated watch and don't need a chrono so I like simple watches with some interesting details like a power reserve etc.
I like Lange and I also like Dubuis-
1)do you think Dubuis is too flashy?
2)what are some good boutique makers of watches that I might not have heard of?

[SJX]

1. Some Roger Dubius watches are flashy, unfortunately that is increasingly the trend of the brand as a whole. In the past, RD did make some subtle complicated pieces with terrific finish, those seem to a thing of the past.

2. Other 'boutique' makers would include all the members of the AHCI. FP Journe comes to mind, so does Franck Muller. FM is sometimes derided due to its flashy and lower end pieces, but at the high end complication segment it makes ingenious and well finished pieces.

[pchong]

sorry, was travelling on vacation...

I agree with SJX that Dubuis do seem rather flashy. Do you prefer smaller watches, or large ones? By today's standards a round case of 40mm or less is considered small.

Of the current crop of regular sized watches (about 38mm to 40mm diameter), my heart goes to Lange, H. Moser (a short pictorial essay coming soon). The Lange 1 is evergreen, and the new Richard Lange Homage is beautiful, simple and represents excellent work. The Moser Mayu is simple, yet enchantingly beautiful, and the Monarch is beautiful. I ordered a Perpetual 1 for myself from this year's fair, and think it quite sublime - complicated perpetual calendar behind a very simple case and dial layout.

Do take a look at the houses of Peter Speake-Marin (I will do a short article soon), though he does not make the watches himself, he is a talented watchmaker and very fussy about the quality control of the watches which bear his name.

[edhayes]

never heard of either of them but I'll check them out-I personally love Lange and have a number of watches from them
I have to admit to a weakness for big watches-I have a dubuis "too much" which is basically a classic rectangular watch on steroids

[ThomasG]

I like simple watches with some interesting details.

2)what are some good boutique makers of watches that I might not have heard of?

Have you heard of Philippe Dufour? You might like the Simplicity or possibly the Duality. I would forewarn, there is a waiting list(2-3yrs.?) for a new watch and the pre-owned market is just short of nonexistent.

http://dufourwatches.free.fr/

[SJX]

Mr Dufour's watches are no longer available from him, production of the Simplicity is capped at 200 (?), and all have been sold. His other models, the Duality and Sonnerie have long been sold out. It has been rumoured Mr Dufour has a new project lined up though. Perhaps Peter can comment, he's the expert.

[pchong]

Dufour's production limitation for the Simplicity is 200, and all are spoken for, with delivery dates stretching to 2009. To date only 3 models have been produced in series - the Grande Sonnerie, the Duality and the Simplicity.

The Simplicity are made in 2 sizes, 34mm or 37mm, and may not be large enough if you prefer large watches. Typical to Philippe's attention to detail, even though the movements are the same, the watches are in two different calibers - one slightly larger than the other.

See this article I wrote and posted here some time ago, for more information on my good friend Philippe Dufour and his special watches.



http://people.timezone.com/pchong/Dufou ... lippe.html


And this link for the H. Moser watches:

http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t= ... 96&rid=790

[ThomasG]

Mr Dufour's watches are no longer available from him, production of the Simplicity is capped at 200 (?), and all have been sold.

This must have been a somewhat recent occurrence since an "expert" stated, on 2-27-06, that "The Dufour simplicity has a two year waiting list and with a price at around 50,000 Sfr". And, he states that he is a personal friend of Mr. Dufour.

I am often the victim of misinformation.

[SJX]

I believe that is incorrect. I met Philippe earlier this year when he was in Singapore, and he confirmed all 200 Simplicities have been sold, although not all have been completed. AFAIK, Philippe has been sold out since 2004 if I'm not mistaken. Maybe Peter can confirm this.

[uppercase]

The Richard Lange is about at simple and elegant as you can find and this style suits me personally.

I get tired of all the gadgetry, dials and gimmicks common on so many high end watches today.

I believe the price tag on the Richard Lange platinum model is about $30,000, quite a big mark up over the $20,000 gold version.

But it's really a watch to keep for the generations.

Watch prices are going through the roof with the continuing weak US$.

http://www.alange-soehne.com/en/watches ... _lange.php

[ThomasG]

[quote="uppercase"]The Richard Lange is about at simple and elegant as you can find and this style suits me personally.
/quote]
I think that the Richard Lange would be one of my favorite dress watches if it were somewhat less than 40mm.

[pchong]

I believe that is incorrect. I met Philippe earlier this year when he was in Singapore, and he confirmed all 200 Simplicities have been sold, although not all have been completed. AFAIK, Philippe has been sold out since 2004 if I'm not mistaken. Maybe Peter can confirm this.

SJX is absolutely correct. I have a personal relationship with Philippe for many years. all Simplicities are spoken for, that is, a deposit taken, and a schedule entered in his book in Le Soliat for production. The last pieces will be delivered no earlier than late 2008. I understand the last price was CHF52,000 in gold.