silk evening shirts

[alexeberlin]

I am wearing evening dress next month as a project that I worked on has been nominated for seven awards and I'll be attending the ceremony.
I acquired a fabulous vintage evening suit last year at a fundraiser for the third world but as I become more aware I feel the shirt lets down the ensemble. I vaguely recall that Ian Fleming allegedly wore a silk evening shirt, and his hero certainly did ( reference: the novel Casino Royale). Can anyone explain the rules for wearing silk evening shirts, suggest a shirtmaker or just offer opinions? Thank you.

[Jordan Marc]

Alexeberlin:

Silk evening shirts aren't the best choice for formal attire. Thin silk hasn't enough body to hold its shape, even if the front panels of the shirt are pleated. Too droopy. Thick silk, with or without slubs and pleats, stands up a bit better than its tissue thin counterpart, but it's uncomfortably hot. If you sweat through it, the stains are impossible to remove, even if you use underarm shields and a T-shirt.
Add to that the heat-condensing effect of wearing braces and a waistcoat, which creates even more heat. In short, bypass silk altogether.

You would be much better off with a shirt made of crisp white cotton marcella or pique with a turndown collar and foldback cuffs. Whether the front panels of the shirt are plain or pleated, it's up to you. Add a set of tasteful studs and double-sided cufflinks, preferably vintage, a serious black bow-tie and a plain white silk pocket square with plump rolled edges. Tuck your toes into a proper pair of patent formal shoes, plain toe lace-ups or pumps with bows, and you're good to go without breaking a sweat.

JMB

[alexeberlin]

That's exactly why I was afraid of when I tried to visualise a silk evening shirt- although good quality silk should be the best thermal conductor imaginable IIRC.
I'm very happy with the evening suit itself- a vintage item that is an unbelievably well-fitting discovery - and most of the accessories. These include black lace-ups from Tricker's, antique cufflinks, a lapel pin from the 20's and a white silk pocket square with a slight "fingerprint" pattern which my Great Grandfather wore at his wedding. Wristwatch is a vintage Wittnauer.
It's just finding the perfect shirt...oh, and of course the bowtie is black!

[Charlie Huang]

I agree, silk would be too flimsy. Evening shirts are meant to be stiff at the front as a lot of it will be on show so crispness is essential and a shirt that shows a lot of folds and lumps isn't going to cut the mustard.