Learning to bespeak
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:31 am
While doing some informative searches on Cifonelli and Marc di Fiore on Google, I stumbled over the following little quote on Styleforum:
This sentiment is, to me, incredibly encouraging, because it implies that to getting a great bespoke suit is not reserved for those who can afford Savile Row (or Paris for that matter); if you know what to ask for and how to recognise it, you'll be more likely to find it in other (and less dear) places and you'll likely end up with a better suit than any a uneducated bespeaker can pull from the top houses on the Row.
While this is incredible, it also requires some work on my part. This is not a bad thing, quite the opposite actually, but it means that I'll need more time to plan my first bespoke suit, because designing the suit in my head is not enough. I realise that a lot of the education comes from trying the bespoke process myself, but I figure it can't harm trying to prepare myself a bit also.
So, to pick up on Alden's quote above, I've read "The Bespeakers Guide to Bespoke Clothing" on the Cutter and Tailor forum, which is quite an informative article on the differences between bespoke, made-to-order and RTW as well as on construction and I've also read Flusser's "Dressing the Man", which has some nice considerations on fit; to the novice at least. Still, I'm far from feeling confident. As such I turn to you, gentlemen:
In terms of what constitutes great fit, construction and finishing, can you point me towards some informative reading or do you have some tips of your own?
Thanks in advance!
Cheers.
ps. I often spend hours enjoying myself in the Best of Bespoke forum, but the information there is a bit more specialised than what I'm inquiring about here.
The author is, of course, Alden.Forget the tailors for a few moments and give yourself sometime to learn what constitutes great fit, construction and finishing. Then you will be able to recognize same on your visits.
A great tailor is like a Formula one race car, its only as good as its pilot. A great bespeaker will pull a masterpiece from a tailor while an average one will go home with a sack of potatoes from the very same hand. It may not seem fair, but that’s the way it is. It’s the client that makes the tailor and not vice versa.
This sentiment is, to me, incredibly encouraging, because it implies that to getting a great bespoke suit is not reserved for those who can afford Savile Row (or Paris for that matter); if you know what to ask for and how to recognise it, you'll be more likely to find it in other (and less dear) places and you'll likely end up with a better suit than any a uneducated bespeaker can pull from the top houses on the Row.
While this is incredible, it also requires some work on my part. This is not a bad thing, quite the opposite actually, but it means that I'll need more time to plan my first bespoke suit, because designing the suit in my head is not enough. I realise that a lot of the education comes from trying the bespoke process myself, but I figure it can't harm trying to prepare myself a bit also.
So, to pick up on Alden's quote above, I've read "The Bespeakers Guide to Bespoke Clothing" on the Cutter and Tailor forum, which is quite an informative article on the differences between bespoke, made-to-order and RTW as well as on construction and I've also read Flusser's "Dressing the Man", which has some nice considerations on fit; to the novice at least. Still, I'm far from feeling confident. As such I turn to you, gentlemen:
In terms of what constitutes great fit, construction and finishing, can you point me towards some informative reading or do you have some tips of your own?
Thanks in advance!
Cheers.
ps. I often spend hours enjoying myself in the Best of Bespoke forum, but the information there is a bit more specialised than what I'm inquiring about here.