The London Lounge

Hello:

First of all, I really appreciate this group. You're all very helpful.

I'm in the DC metropolitan area and am looking for a place for bespoke shirts and suits. I've been a devoted Brooks Brothers customer (to give you a hint of my taste), but must admit that numerous encounters with customers of Savile Row and Charvet have made me focus energy on learning more about sartorial issues etc.

Right now, places like Charvet, A&S, Poole, or Norton (I do travel often) are a bit steep for me. I'm a fan of the fabric and collars and Thomas Pink shirts and have heard great reviews (obviously) about Turnbull and Asser. I do, however, get the impression that one gets more out of these shops when they really know what's best for them. Can anyone comment on whether finding a quality tailor that does not charge "Savile Row" prices would be a worthwhile exercise given my circumstances, at least for the learning experience (a good product is, of course, a must)? If so, what are some good choices in DC or New York? Should I forget about suits and just focus on shirts (Pink, Turnbull) for now? Bespoke shirts are more affordable? Would it be worth it to meet, say, a Savile Row tailor when they visit the States and start small--maybe order some ties etc.--but just get sartorial tips from them?

Please note the following--maybe it's a fault these days, but I like to be gentlemanly if people are gentlemanly to me. If I were to find some place in DC that's run by someone who's trained, but not as well-known (like a Hitchcock Jr.), I'd hate to start a relationship and then just dump the fellow when I can afford some of the places mentioned above. It's like an up-and-coming athlete with a great coach that gets noticed because of the great coach, but then leaves the coach to work with someone who can get him better opportunities. You understand the switch, but it's still awkward. Anyone else have the same experience? This is also why I'd never go to a tailor's US visit and not buy something for the trouble. I'm posting on the US board too. Thanks so much.

PS Apologies to all tailors and customers not affiliated with the shops I've named. But it just so happens that the bespoke suit customers I've known of or come into contact with who's tailors have been known have been clients of Charvet, Anderson & Shepphard, Henry Poole, or Norton & Sons. I simply have not met anyone else. And I'm not close enough to any of them to ask this sort of question, however. All the best!

In my view bespoke clothing is very much about building a relationship with a set of chosen craftsmen (tailor, shirtmaker, shoemaker etc.) and the possibility to be fitted as often as necessary. This implies that they should either be close to where you live, or that you should have frequent opportunities to visit the places where they work. On the long term I think you may be better off with a decently capable craftsman close to home who can learn with the first few commissions what you want and need, than with a "five stars" tailoring house thousands of miles away that you get to visit once a year. The idea behind dressing with bespoke clothes is that almost anywhere in the world you can find talented craftsmen that can make you the clothes you want, so you don't need to resort to "labels" or "names". An Armani suit will be the same no matter where you buy it, whereas the charm of bespoke is that each tailor will make you a different and unique suit even if you order the same thing - which you may like or not.
On the other hand, don't expect the first tailor you'll go to will also be your last - unless you are very lucky. Not only you may find he is not able to deliver what you want, but your tastes and preferences will almost certainly change with time.
Shirts are more affordable than suits in the sense that one shirt costs less than one suit, but the ratio of shirts to suits in your wardrobe should be something like 10 to 1. Then you need shoes and ties and hats and gloves etc. - so you need to approach bespoke dressing as a whole, taking your time and enjoying every new discovery and addition to your wardrobe.

Costi

Field English Tailors on Wisconsin Avenue is the choice in DC. I write as a very satisfied customer who also has used A&S and Flusser's custom service. The firm was started many years ago by William Field Sr., a very fine Savile Row trained man who passed away several years ago. Some years prior his son Will, who he trained as a tailor, joined the firm, and has carried on in the same fine, low-key tradition.

Both father and son have been first class people doing business in a first class way.

Field's house style is somewhat structured, with a clean chest, but he is flexible in working to execute a customer's wishes. His prices are, as I recall, around $2400 for a two-piece suit, which is significantly less than Savile Row. The fabric books from Lesser, H&S, Scabal, etc., are available. He takes orders for bespoke shirts which are made, I believe, by Geneva.

Field is also very skilled in alterations and a host of Savile Row customers use the firm for this service. Mr. Field Sr., for example, re-cut President Reagan's suits after the attempted assasination, followinig which he lost a great deal of weight.

If you are willing to look at made-to-measure, a step below bespoke, a wonderful shop called Duchess,Clothier from Portland, Oregon will be visiting DC most likely on March 19. Contact them via their website duchessclothier.com. very reasonable prices for made to measure.