The London Lounge

I am humiliated to ask this (hence posting in the Anonymous Forum,) but is the wearing of calfskin cap-toed oxfords with a dinner suit absolute heresy? The only occasions for which I would need black tie attire would be opening at the opera or theatre, the occasional (perhaps once every two years) black tie charity event, and perhaps a cruise. In all, I may wear it once a year, and so I do not wish to spend a great deal of money on a pair of shoes that will sit in my closet most of the time. Naturally, should the time come when I require black tie more often, or should I be invited to a full dress event, I will get a pair of proper opera pumps. The rest of my ensemble would be correct, double breasted style lapels or a shawl collar, marcella shirt with turndown collar, silk waistcoat (three button) etc..

It doesn't seem all that bad to me, provided that your shoes are well cleaned and polished. It is certainly a step in the right direction and is, if you only wear black tie occasionally, I think a reasonable substitute.

pvpatty

Many cap-toed oxford are nearly indistinguishable from plain-toe models in actual combat.

Still-- pumps aren't that expensive relative to lace-ups, mostly because they aren't that well made.

Concordia

They may not be 'correct" but not wholly unacceptable.

It shouldn't be too difficult to pick up a halfway decent pair of patent, plain-toed oxfords in the sales. For most folk, they're more palatable than opera pumps and they're no less correct for black tie. With only occassional use, they should last for years.

The risk in making do with calf-leather cap-toes is that, while most folk won't know the diference, you'll know; and you'll know fellow Loungers will know; and you'll know that, while you know they know, you know they'll be much too polite to notice.

If you can live with such knowledge, the cap-toes will be fine.

Azdak

Anonymous wrote:It shouldn't be too difficult to pick up a halfway decent pair of patent, plain-toed oxfords in the sales. For most folk, they're more palatable than opera pumps and they're no less correct for black tie. With only occassional use, they should last for years.

The risk in making do with calf-leather cap-toes is that, while most folk won't know the diference, you'll know; and you'll know fellow Loungers will know; and you'll know that, while you know they know, you know they'll be much too polite to notice.

If you can live with such knowledge, the cap-toes will be fine.

Azdak

Alternatively, you could go with a selection of: plain patent oxfords or pumps (either in kidskin or patent) and, in each case, with straight or pinched bows; just make sure that you don't mix all those vests up....
NJS

What about black wholecuts? Strikes me as more formal again than plain toes?

I think wholecuts would be fantastic provided they had highly polished calf leather, didn't look overly fashion-y with a chiseled toe or really narrow last, and no broguing -- which most wholecuts seem to have off the rack.

I think such a shoe would be hard to find and might need to be bespoke. Patent leather wholecuts would be pretty cool... but then, you may as well just grab a pair of AE Copley instead of all that trouble.

Allen-Edmonds used to make a plain wholecut, but it appears to be discontinued now. I think they'd look great with black tie.

Wholecuts strike me as too modern / fashionable looking to recommend for black tie. If you have them, they are a passable substitute, but I would not get them specifically for the purpose. Plain toe oxfords are better.

Understood. Just my opinion.

A wholecut with no seams even around the laces is a very modern fashionable innovation. I wear pumps, but this is what we are thinking of here when we talk of wholecuts:



I would say sufficiently polished caps are fine, though not perfect. They are not strictly traditional, but no-one will notice. Unless you already have the best in accessories and bespoke jacket, spend the money there.

NCW

If you want to wear calfskin leather with a dinner suit, polish and polish and polish those shoes until they are very shiny and then polish again.

I liked the idea of a whole-cut in patent leather, simple and elegant; however, as I was getting a bespoke pair made, plain toe was the safe option.