The London Lounge

Gentlemen,

I am quite keen on getting some feedback from customers and observers alike.

What are your thoughts on the relative merits of bespoke suits/jackets from RA?

I have liked descriptions of the cut of his jackets and a very traditional Huntsman jacket interests me.

I do have some concerns, however, regarding some of the more outre or fashion-like pieces I see he advertises (i.e. sequin jackets, ridiculously loud fabrics, etc).

Do you think I should feel comfortable in his execution of relatively staid garments for work purposes, provided I indicate their future uses? Would we consider him a 'true' classical tailor and not along the lines of the 'new' Row (i.e. OB, RJ, new Kilgour, Timothy Everest, etc.). I certainly do not want a 'fashion' tailor - I would like a bespoke tailor who understand and incorporates classical proportion, line, etc into my garments. Despite Richard's age, can he be what I am seeking?

I also came across a post on this forum by Manton. He states something along the lines that he found the RA cut to be 'slouchy' or 'off' - perhaps the buttoning point being too low. As i generally respect his opinion, his seemingly negative remark has me a bit worried also.

Would others here consider RA's cut to be 'slouchy'. This is certainly not a term I think of when thinking of an equestrian-type jacket and certainly not a term I would like to desribe my future garments.

What says everyone?

some of you, more knowledgeable than I, must have some thoughts on Richard Anderson, no??

Richard Anderson cut my first Huntsman suit, with which I was very happy. When he and Brian Lishak moved on, I stayed at Huntsman for a few more years. I moved to Richard Anderson when Huntsman fell on hard times, and stopped visiting Los Angeles, where I live.

My wardrobe now has both Richard Anderson and Huntsman outfits in it, and there doesn't seem to be much difference.

I would not allow myself to be misled by the wild promotional stuff. This firm caters to some very, very, serious men, many of whom came from Huntsman, as I did, and insist on a very traditional bespoke outfit.

I also don't believe that "slouchy" is apt. These are high-gorge, high armhole, structured outfits, cut slim in the waist and leg. Brian goes around in 20 oz. hard worsteds most of the time, and while it's true that Richard is more experimental in his personal choice of cloth, I've never seen anything odd.

Richard cuts everything himself, and Brian has been a fixture in Savile Row for many years, so this firm is very much a known quantity.

As for the button stance, I admit to having mine lowered a little on my odd jackets, because I sometimes wear them with jeans, and I want the jacket to cover my waist-band when it's buttoned. I realize I've probably just lost all respect with this revelation, but hope to be forgiven by letting you know that I do--in fact--know better.

[quote="

As for the button stance, I admit to having mine lowered a little on my odd jackets, because I sometimes wear them with jeans, and I want the jacket to cover my waist-band when it's buttoned. I realize I've probably just lost all respect with this revelation, but hope to be forgiven by letting you know that I do--in fact--know better.[/quote]


Better a little too low than a little too high!

Anonymous wrote:Better a little too low than a little too high!

I am of the contrary opinion, unless one is very tall, slim and has a relatively short torso (not a very frequent combination). That goes hand in hand with "coats better a little too short than a little too long". I think this combination flatters most bodies better than a long coat with a low buttoning point. Of course we are talking a couple of centimeters here, not exaggerations.

Costi

Anonymous wrote:

Anonymous wrote:Better a little too low than a little too high!

I am of the contrary opinion, unless one is very tall, slim and has a relatively short torso (not a very frequent combination). That goes hand in hand with "coats better a little too short than a little too long". I think this combination flatters most bodies better than a long coat with a low buttoning point. Of course we are talking a couple of centimeters here, not exaggerations.

Costi

You know, I think that you have made me realize that my observation is based on my own build - although I am of very average height (5'10") and slim (12 stone), I do have a short torso. Indeed, when the cutter first took my measurements, he couldn't believe my inside leg measurement and did it again, muttering "that can't be right" - it is longer than that of a former colleague of mine who was 6'5". Having already mentioned the drop on my left shoulder, I plainly need a good tailor!
NJS