Cordovan premium

[Guest]

As with many other topics, I've learned a lot about cordovan on LL (would certainly love to visit the Carmina shop). I've also seen and felt cordovan hide at the local shoemaker's shop and loved it. Given its rarity, I expected it to cost a premium over calfskin. For a bespoke pair at this shop, cordovan was about 33% more than calfskin ($3900 vs $2900). Is that reasonable in your view?

[Guest]

I wouldn't pay that much, but if you can - reasonable. If you can find a cheaper bespoke maker (you can) maybe worth a try..

[Guest]

As I understand it, the premium isn't just from the extra cost of the material but also from the extra difficulty in working with it.

Still 33% seems highish but not unreasonably so.

--Cantab

[Guest]

I don't believe G&G has nearly that upcharge.

[Guest]

No I don't think it is fair, but it is standard for the trade. Like the difference between the price of silver and gold cufflinks of the same design is far more that the price difference of the materials. English bespoke shoemakers hate cordovan not only because it is hard to work with but also because the final product, in their opinion, looks cheap like corrected leather. They will do it if you want and make you pay. I have been told that cordovan would be ok for something that gets alot of wear like a polo boot. But for shoes you have to make them do it. Exception might be shoemakers with many German clients who seem to love the stuff.

KH

[Guest]

Cordovan is also supposed to last longer, what might perhaps justify the investiment.

Marcelo

[Guest]

Given that ready to wear shoe manufacturers have about a $200 upcharge for shell, I would have to wonder about the $1,000 price increase for bespoke. I know cordovan is harder to work with, but $800 should cover a lot of labor!

[Guest]

Given that ready to wear shoe manufacturers have about a $200 upcharge for shell, I would have to wonder about the $1,000 price increase for bespoke. I know cordovan is harder to work with, but $800 should cover a lot of labor!

I do not think it is only the hand working involved which makes cordovan’s price so high. You have to take into consideration at least two things: calf leather is available in a far greater amount than horse leather. - Not many persons fancy the idea of eating horse hamburger, I think. Besides, only the so-called crupper is used for the fabrication of cordovan shoes, it means that a horse will yield two or three pairs of shoes alone; I once read that it would be only one pair of shoes per horse. Moreover, the tannage, it seems, is more complicated. Horween has an established reputation in this regard. Maybe they could give you further information on this point, and maybe you will share with us this piece of information in the future.

Marcelo

[Guest]

Not many persons fancy the idea of eating horse hamburger, I think.

They eat plenty on the continent. Besides, I suppose all horses (racehorses etc.) go the knacker's at some point.

NCW

[Guest]

... I suppose all horses (racehorses etc.) go the knacker's at some point.

NCW

Indeed, but in a far reduced number, anyway. This also explains why horse hair fabric is so expensive, albeit it is no less attractive than a well-made cordovan. Think of wearing a beautiful pair of cordovan, sitting in chair like this, upholstered with horse hair fabric weaved by John Boyd Textiles:



Oh, yes, don’t forget a good cigar…

Marcelo

[Guest]

How times change. In the Victorian era, they used horse hair matting as a cheap covering for floors (servants' accommodation etc.).

[Guest]

How times change. In the Victorian era, they used horse hair matting as a cheap covering for floors (servants' accommodation etc.).

... and the judges whigs in the court room.

[Guest]

How times change. In the Victorian era, they used horse hair matting as a cheap covering for floors (servants' accommodation etc.).

... and the judges whigs in the court room.

Marcelo