Overcoat dilemmas

What you always wanted to know about Elegance, but were afraid to ask!
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Guest

Sun Mar 23, 2008 10:55 pm

Dear Gentlemen,

I shall be commissioning a new bespoke overcoat very soon (in order to be ready by next winter) and I have decided to go with a raglan coat this time around. Ever since I saw this illustration somewhere in the lounge I have been thinking very seriously to have it made in this colour (should I call it bone beige?). I would really appreciate your opinion on both the colour and what fabric would you suggest?


Image

Kindest regards
Guest

Sun Mar 23, 2008 10:56 pm

Further to my post...I am assuming this is not a gabardine raincoat...
Guest

Sun Mar 23, 2008 11:33 pm

You should line up an excellent drycleaner.

Even one trip on the train with a newspaper will leave its mark on that garment.
Guest

Sun Mar 23, 2008 11:33 pm

I believe it is not a raincoat - if it were, it would likely have had a capelet. But someone with the original illustration and text could let you know with certainty.

I have nothing to offer by way of answer to your question, but note the flapped patch "ticket" pocket. It is a rare example. The shaping of the sleeve cuff straps are nice, too, though it seems gratuitous here and I would have made the straps plain.

dopey
Guest

Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:20 am

i rarely travel by trains. I guess I dont mind the dry cleaning costs. I would just like your opinion regarding this look..
Guest

Mon Mar 24, 2008 8:42 am

The cloth used may very well be the traditional loden cloth known as Schladminger (see link below.) It is a light gray base with a lot of marbling as you can see from the picure. The 1000 gms version is particularly interesting and I plan on using it soon on a raglan project.

As regards the style, I would have to say that it is complicated by a few too many gadgets for my taste. Leave off the patch and ticket pockets straight away. A raglan will have the tendency to make the wearer look wider than he actually is, so no reason to make the coat look wider too.

http://www.loden-steiner.at/v_steiner_4 ... inger.html

M Alden
Guest

Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:21 pm

Take a look a "covert cloths", they have a couple of very useful beiges that work in an urban setting. Minnis has a decent book of 18 oz cloth (cf. [url:/]http://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/hardy ... o=M?cate=Q?[/url])


DDM
Guest

Mon Mar 24, 2008 2:37 pm

Very interesting Mr Alen..I was not aware of this cloth but from the link you have provided it seems to have the most outstanding texture..
Thanks
Guest

Tue Mar 25, 2008 1:42 pm

Mr Alden, further to my last post I have phoned up the London Loden supplier and was informed that they only wholesale. Do you know of a particular place that I could get hold of this fabric as a private customer?
cheers
Guest

Tue Mar 25, 2008 6:38 pm

It might be that they mean that they deal only with tailors and not direct with the public and so maybe your tailor would have more luck with them.
NJS
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