Wear and tear on trouser cuffs

What you always wanted to know about Elegance, but were afraid to ask!
Guest

Sun Mar 09, 2008 4:13 pm

The one area of my trousers that has worn out is the bottom of the cuffs that drapes over the Achilles tendon (or back of the shoe). Do you know how this can be prevented? Are reinforcements sometimes added to the cuff/hem? By way of background, this occurred on my old suits; I certainly accelerated this wear and tear by wearing my suits too often (not enough of them to properly rotate, but I was just starting out then). I was concerned with my newer suits, but my tailor at the time didn't think any reinforcements were called for. Thanks for your observations or suggestions.
Guest

Sun Mar 09, 2008 4:27 pm

Your tailor can put 'cuff shields', usually a piece of leather, to protect the fabric from all the friction.

J
Guest

Sun Mar 09, 2008 7:05 pm

I've seen a type of ribbon with protruding edges that keeps the trousers away from the shoes.
NJS
Guest

Sun Mar 09, 2008 8:09 pm

It's very unusual to have trousers without such a protection at the hem.
It is usually a ribbon made of strong cotton or polyester.

It looks like this and comes in many colours:

Image

When the ribbon is worn it can easily be replaced. Every good tailor or alteration shop should have something like this in stock!


SG
Guest

Mon Mar 10, 2008 2:32 am

Thanks very much to all of you for the information. Upon closer inspection, I did find this on one of my trousers (but strangely, on the RTW one)!
Guest

Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:23 pm

I think you can use petersham on the cuff of the trouser leg to prevent it from wearing out. It's like a ribbed ribbon and should be available in any habidashery. Here's a link which may be helpful : http://www.thesewingplace.com/index.asp ... rodID=1027
Guest

Tue Mar 11, 2008 2:53 am

I had the same problem and now put these "cuff protectors" on all my better quality trousers.
Guest

Tue Mar 11, 2008 8:03 pm

so do you put this petersham on the inside of the cuff or does the petersham actually touch the shoe?
Guest

Tue Mar 11, 2008 9:37 pm

It goes on the inside of the trouser leg and extends an inch or two on either side of the rear (vertical) crease. Some like to allow the rib to extend just below the bottom edge of the trouser so that the vulnerable folded edge (of the turnup if present) does not wear against the shoe (or, heaven forbid, the ground).

- Couch
Guest

Wed Apr 16, 2008 6:11 am

if the color of the tape used is not a perfect color match it looks absurd, very amateurish. when you sit everyone can see it. and not many tailors can mount it correctly.
when the trousers are hemmed or cuffed there is some fabric left over. this can be used to create heel guards. about 4" of cloth to protect from wear rubbing against the shoe heel. sometimes there is wear from rubbing on the shoe laces. i always place both heel and toe guards on all my trousers. i find that there is no wear at the sides. heel and toe guards done this way are invisible to everyone except yourself. ask your tailor to give you the cut off cloth. thats so that when the guards wear you can replace them.
Guest

Wed Apr 16, 2008 5:46 pm

The ribbon SG writes about is called extra-fort in French - you will find it illustrated and explained down this webpage. Here it is used to reinforce a seam.
On trousers it is usually sewn all around on the inside of the hem, 1 mm short of the edge.
Image
On trousers made of very thin cloth, where its relative rigidity could interfere with the natural drape, it is only sewn as a heel guard at the back.

Costi
Guest

Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:57 pm

I think that any decent tailor should be able to apply such a tape to the trousers hem.
Only stretchy material may cause minor problems, which can be easily solved after some practice. In the end it should look like this, with the tape showing for at least 1mm. This way the fabric is well protected(see arrow)!
Of course this is how I learned to do it, there are other ways also.

Image

SG
Guest

Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:57 pm

Do SR suits come with a cuff shields or should one ask for it?
Guest

Thu Apr 17, 2008 1:21 am

Anonymous wrote:The ribbon SG writes about is called extra-fort in French - you will find it illustrated and explained down this webpage. Here it is used to reinforce a seam.
On trousers it is usually sewn all around on the inside of the hem, 1 mm short of the edge.
Image
On trousers made of very thin cloth, where its relative rigidity could interfere with the natural drape, it is only sewn as a heel guard at the back.

Costi
the picture shows what i was speaking of. this ribbon sewn 1mm above the bottom of the cuff is useless as protection from wear, as the bottom itself is exposed to wear. you can see that it is not protecting anything.
if that ribbon is there for some other purpose, thats fine. but the bottom will wear out.
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