Paper Patterns

[Guest]

I would like to dispense with in-person fittings and just rely on a perfected paper pattern to have suits/shirts made. Is this reliable or effective in your experience?

Are these paper patterns re-cut after the first fitting to reflect adjustments?

Are they re-made following weight change and changing posture?


TIA

[Guest]

Ah, the Holy Grail of Bespoke!

Seriously, I've had reasonable success with ordering shirts from afar. 'Not yet there with coats or trousers, let alone shoes.

RWS

[Guest]

I would like to dispense with in-person fittings and just rely on a perfected paper pattern to have suits/shirts made. Is this reliable or effective in your experience?

OK for shirts, a dubious practice for suits. If nothing else, not seeing you in person allows your tailor's attention to wander.

[Guest]

No, not effective.

Using a paper pattern only by a tailor helps getting only a 80% correct fit; the rest needs to be done in person.

There is no such thing as "perfecting" a fit through a paper pattern. It's just the starting point.

Don't think to buy bespoke without fittings.

[Guest]

A perfected paper pattern might help to start with a forward fitting and have the suit, coat, trousers, shirts finished after that one..
Fact is, every fabric is different and tailors differently, so small adjustments might become necessary.
In case you don't buy bespoke from one of the "all in one" tailors, chances are that every time you order a suit or shirt, different tailors will work on them and results will vary.
So, yes, fittings are best!
Same with adjustments of the patterns when a customer changes his shape, which is not only transferring the new measurements: Have a tailor/ cutter remeasure you.



SG

[Guest]

In addition to the good advice you received above, please also consider that you won't want all of your suits to look precisely the same: where the lapels roll, how wide they are, how much drape is built into the coat, how much the front quarters open etc. depend on the intended use of the suit, cloth type and weight, styling options and give the garment its distinct personality. This requires personal contact with the cutter, exchange of ideas and, of course, fittings.

C

[Guest]

yes any cutter worth his salt changes his pattern as the fittings are done. but then the next a garment is cut it must be fitted anew.
we did a few garments for old customers without fittings. about half the time needing only minor adjustments. mostly because of cloth working differently.

AD

[Guest]

Do they change the patterns? Somehow, I doubt it; first, patterns derive from simple measurements which are either right or wrong - and the fine adjustments are always effected by tugging around the nearly finished product as you stand there, Pymalion-esque, hoping that it will soon be over and you can have your lunch.........
NJS

[Guest]

have done this many times i can tell you that any change made at fitting can be changed on the pattern. please believe me its not magic. whatever lack or excess on the cloth at fitting represents a lack or excess on the pattern. the cutter either glues more paper or cuts off paper on the pattern. on the next suit the fittings are more easly done.

AD

[Guest]

OK.
NJS