...really confused!

[Guest]

I have finally received my first bespoke suit! (after many years of highly-paying for cheap designer stuff). Everything seems fine and there has been lots of hand work done on the suit.

I have, however, compared one feature of this bespoke jacket, with all my other ready made jackets. I have also compared it to my friends’ bespoke jackets. This feature is, stitching done on the outside of the lapel (where the two faces meet). I am really confused as I have not seen this anywhere else. Is this correct?

Gentlemen do your jackets also have this outside visible tiny stitches too (the two faces aren’t just folded on the inside and sewn)?

Thanking you in advance for all your valued replies.

[Guest]

anyone? please

[Guest]

It's perfectly acceptable to most men, I think. I prefer that such topstitching be nearly invisible (as I do not like showiness) but content myself with the thought that it does -- may? -- at the least reinforce the construction.

RWS

[Guest]

Thanks RWS. So what you are saying is there needs to be top-stitching in a bespoke jacket but it would be nicer if the stitching is almost indistinguishable? TBH mine are not that big...but you do see them well when you observe the lapel more closely. Until now I thought the lapel faces were only done from the inside.

Thanks again.

[Guest]

That is a very nice illustration; how did you make that?

Anyway....I have never seen stiching such as in your illustration. It seems very unusual in my experience.

Who was the tailor who did such extensive handwork for you?

There are many different tastes on this site so don't be discouraged if your tastes differ from some of those here.

[Guest]

Need there be topstitching? I don't think so but don't really know; I'll try to remember to look at my coats when I return home this weekend.

As the anonymous poster stated, OP, Loungers have widely varying tastes. I prefer that topstitching be very subtle (obvious topstitching looks crass to me and reminds me of the sportcoats I've seen on rodeo riders in Texas), but: to each his own. Isn't that part of the glory of individually-made clothing?

RWS

[Guest]

I'm a bit confused,too!

Usually there will be topstitching visible on the outside of the coats edges, sometimes only on the inner side of the facing/ lapel! In both cases it can be used either for decoration(more visible) or merely fixing/ holding the edges(less visible)!

Another possibility would be the facing hand felled to the coats front part, which is contrary to machined sewing and is requiring a lot of work and time!

Image 1: stitching on the inner side of the facing not showing on the outside



Image 2: stitching on the outside(looks pretty much the same, might show tiny stitching on the under side:



Image 3: felling of the facing:



Which one is it?

Is top stitching needed? In terms of bespoke construction: Yes!, I think.
The edges will stay flat! If you don't like the stitching to be visible your tailor might do very tiny stitches, which will hardly be seen!
In MTM or RTW the edges are sort of glued together, so there will be no stitching necessary. Still some producers use the AMF- edge(done by a special machine) to create the optics of a handmade product. Can be easily detected by longer stitches(very visible) on the under side of the edges!

SG

[Guest]

Gentlemen, I have compared my jacket to all three photos and I am sure it is the third one 'felling of the facing'. There is no huge space between each thread though, the threads are very compactly sewn.

[Guest]

Oh, and as for the illustration. Very easy, made it with Microsoft Paint.

[Guest]

In that case the stitching was well done and has to be there!
In any case it's a heck a lot of work. I have only seen this method of attaching the facing in a few old tailoring books, and there it was used for silk facings(smoking)!
Usually it's done with a machine nowadays, so you've got a "real" bespoke coat!



SG

[Guest]

. . . . Who was the tailor who did such extensive handwork for you? . . . .

I, too, would be interested in reading about the tailor. Who is he, and where does he work?

RWS

[Guest]

He is actually a 20 year old boy who has been training as a tailor since the age of 9. He does a lot of handwork (more than I have seen on many of my other bespoke jackets). He has now promised to make me a fully hand made suit. Also a friend of mine is having his first meeting with him in two weeks.

I actually saw him doing buttonholes in Starbucks (of all places) one day and I could not help myself but to immediately start a conversation with him. I never thought I would learn so much history from a boy so young. I immediately decided to give him a try. He truly loves what he does!

[Guest]

Cool story!

[Guest]

He is actually a 20 year old boy who has been training as a tailor since the age of 9. He does a lot of handwork (more than I have seen on many of my other bespoke jackets). He has now promised to make me a fully hand made suit. Also a friend of mine is having his first meeting with him in two weeks.

I actually saw him doing buttonholes in Starbucks (of all places) one day and I could not help myself but to immediately start a conversation with him. I never thought I would learn so much history from a boy so young. I immediately decided to give him a try. He truly loves what he does!

In which city did you meet the young man?

Thanks

[Guest]

He lives in London. From what I remember from our conversation, he was born here but grew up in Seattle, Washington. His father apparently has something to do with Airbus (aeroplanes) so he is a well off kid, and travels all the time. I have emailed him after our conversation and he has informed me that he is working on a big project at the moment which should be ready soon.

His father is financing him to build a company where everything is handmade and bespoke. The kid is obsessed I tell you! Suits, shirts, shoes and luggage. I think the shirts will be made by an Italian guy and will be entirely handmade. He is a very determined kid. Sometimes he gives me the creeps. But he is a joy to talk to.