Hi.
Should the bespoke jacket waist button closure be exactly at your natural waist (smallest part of your waist) or should it fasten higher or lower? Which is the correct position for it?
Many thanks.
waist button of a two buttons jacket
"Button point" as this is called is one of the basic ways to manipulate the visual proportions of the jacket to balance the figure. Whether you are long-waisted and short-legged, average, or short-waisted and long-legged; whether you are broad-shouldered for your height or the reverse; whether you are solidly built or slight; the number and configuration of buttons; whether the jacket is single or double breasted, whether it will be worn with a vest or not, and probably many other factors influence where you and your tailor will want to place the button point, along with the length of the jacket skirt, the shoulder expression, amount of drape, etc. These factors all work together.
I would venture to say that most Loungers prefer a button point at or above the natural waist, other things being equal. The low button stance of the early-'90s Armani-type cut was intended to look relaxed and degagé; it succeeded in that, but flattered very few men.
Some fashion-forward tailors and designers cut very low-waisted suit trousers and pair them with shortish jackets with appropriately high button points. This can be bad in the other direction, resulting in shirt flashing in the quarters below the buttoned jacket when moving--a look I find unappetizing. Suit trousers should be at or near the natural waist to allow the jacket button point to be situated appropriately.
- Couch
I would venture to say that most Loungers prefer a button point at or above the natural waist, other things being equal. The low button stance of the early-'90s Armani-type cut was intended to look relaxed and degagé; it succeeded in that, but flattered very few men.
Some fashion-forward tailors and designers cut very low-waisted suit trousers and pair them with shortish jackets with appropriately high button points. This can be bad in the other direction, resulting in shirt flashing in the quarters below the buttoned jacket when moving--a look I find unappetizing. Suit trousers should be at or near the natural waist to allow the jacket button point to be situated appropriately.
- Couch
If you will take a moment to read the posts on the LL, you will find many detailed discussions regarding the correct buttoning point.
Michael Alden
Michael Alden
if the belt is at the natural waist as it should be, then the waist button should be just above the waist. you would not want the button to ride on top of the belt and buckle.
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