...just curious!

[Guest]

Gentlemen,
I am on a mission to understand the art of bespoke, so I have to begin by opening up one of my old bespoke jackets. I have noticed that there is also a little horizontal piece of haircanvas at the back (where the collar melton meets the main back). Is this correct? Is canvas supposed to be present there (is it not just present at the front main part of the jacket?)?

Thanking you in advance.

[Guest]

This piece of canvas is usually shaped like the rear neck hole and was/ is used to support and preserve the shape of the neck hole. Some tailors only sew a tape of lining onto the edge of the neckhole, again to preserve it's shape(to avoid stretching the neckhole, which might result in a collar standing away from the neck).
In RTW and MTM clothing mostly replaced by fusible canvas or alike!



SG

[Guest]

So is this canvas (at the neck) supposed to be finishing under the centre back seam or should it be on top of the seam and hung free? Thanks

[Guest]

Hello!

This is how I would do it, other tailors might do it differently.
The canvas is cut as one piece, but slightly oblique. This way it is straight where the neck hole is rounded, so it won't stretch out that much.



Instead of basting one can use the machine instead, of course! It's faster and lasts longer.


SG

[Guest]

Dear SG your knowledge on bespoke tailoring is amazing (I have noticed a few of your other replies).

For this reason I will ask a different question: I have recently received a canvas sample book from a haberdashery in London and it has about ten different kinds of haircanvases in it. The canvas may have in it hair, wool, cotton, fibro, viscose and poly at different percentages.

For winter suits what type of canvas would be best to choose? One with higher percentage of wool percentage? Or with more hair?

Thanks again!

[Guest]

I must admit that I never came across such a vast choice of canvas material.
But although it may contribute to the warmth of a garment, the composition of the material would be more influential on the structure(more horsehair in it will mean it's stiffer).
If it is for real bespoke go for the most natural material.
If you already use a thick and heavy cloth you might want to avoid a heavy floating canvas construction, so go for a lighter material. You might use a heavier lining instead(heavy satin or serge).

Again, this reflects my preferences. It's up to the personal likes or the supplying situation of other tailors.

SG

[Guest]

I'm encouraged by this discussion of tailor's canvas to ask if Schneider Gott or another could recommend a supplier of good, light canvas: I've a tailor whose work I like in Buenos Aires, but prohibitive import duties restrict canvasses available to him to just two weights: heavy, and heavier. As I prefer a light, supple construction, I'd be glad if I could bring him some canvas (at 185 cm. and 65 or 70 kg., how much might that be for a suit or sport coat?) -- and could do so without duties, under Argentine law for visitors.

RWS

(Ideally, the supplier would be in the United States; but I wouldn't mind approaching a manufacturer elsewhere.)

[Guest]

@RWS:
Measure the length of the front part of your longest jacket/ coat and add some cm/ inches!
Basically I would think 1,3m to be sufficient(including some material for the shoulder pieces), depending on the material's width.(The canvas pieces should not be cut doubled like cloth, but laid out in opposite directions. This way both pieces will roll the same way).

I have some "Hänsel Orange" horsehair in my private stock, but I don't know if it's light enough. I would think it's medium, because there are some very light italian canvasses for sale. Only problem is that they are very plain, so they do not stick to the cloth very well.
I have checked DHL in Germany, as they are the only ones who deliver worldwide. Depending on the weight of the package, prices for shipping go up to almost 40,- Euro or $60,- . If that would not be the case I could send you some meters of my Hänsel horsehair or some of my dark canvas(mixture of materials), which is a bit lighter. But I don't know about customs in Argentina. Will they let it through when shipped to a private address?
You might try to get some canvas material at fabric shops in the USA, though!
Somewhere here in the LL there was similar question posted by a young man from Finland and Mr. Alden gave him a London phone number. Here is the link to it:
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/vie ... ght=#23818


SG

[Guest]

the selection of canvasses in Europe is far greater than in the USA.