Title says it all: How tight are the shoulders and armholes on your new bespoke jackets?
Do they need to be broken in before they are comfortable?
Or are they perfectly comfortable as soon as you receive them?
How tight are the shoulders on your new bespoke jackets?
-
Guest
My best coats not only are comfortable from the first wearing, the feel of the coats scarcely changes over the years (except, of course, that the thrill of a new garment does soon pass).
RWS
RWS
-
Guest
they should be comfortable. are you sure that its not just the new feel that is different from your other garments?
AD
AD
-
Guest
I agree with the responses so far. It might be useful to know where and in what way the jacket feels tight. If you have never had a jacket with relatively high-cut armholes, just the fact that you can detect the presence of the lower edge of the armholes may be uncomfortably new for a while. But if you feel the jacket pulling across the top of the shoulders or upper back, or if your arms seem restricted when you move them moderately, or the front edge of the armhole seems to "cut" when you move your arms forward or begin to raise them, then the fit may not be what it should yet. Certainly you should not feel any constriction around the circumference of the arms at any point.
If you have chosen a fashionably narrow shoulder (point-to-point), a small/high armhole, and a "clean" trim cut with little or no drape, then there's very little room for error in the best of circumstances. If that is not a cut you've worn before, it may be hard to tell whether the fit needs adjusting or you need to adjust to the new cut. If you have chosen a more traditional silhouette with a little drape at the blades and chest, high armholes, and normal shoulder width, you should definitely not be feeling any constriction at all when standing at rest, and very little when moving.
If you have chosen a fashionably narrow shoulder (point-to-point), a small/high armhole, and a "clean" trim cut with little or no drape, then there's very little room for error in the best of circumstances. If that is not a cut you've worn before, it may be hard to tell whether the fit needs adjusting or you need to adjust to the new cut. If you have chosen a more traditional silhouette with a little drape at the blades and chest, high armholes, and normal shoulder width, you should definitely not be feeling any constriction at all when standing at rest, and very little when moving.
-
Guest
If you want comfort, opt for pajamas or sweats.
A well tailored suit will be cut to exacting proportions, close to your body.
It is only the mediocre tailors who cut with such large allowances that your suit could fit any generic figure, one size larger or smaller than yours.
Let's get real, comfort is much too overdone and touted on message boards and is only an extension of an American concept adapted to bespoke clothing.
You must be psychically comfortable in your clothes to be truly comfortable, not to be confused with wearing blousy coats and trousers.
A well tailored suit will be cut to exacting proportions, close to your body.
It is only the mediocre tailors who cut with such large allowances that your suit could fit any generic figure, one size larger or smaller than yours.
Let's get real, comfort is much too overdone and touted on message boards and is only an extension of an American concept adapted to bespoke clothing.
You must be psychically comfortable in your clothes to be truly comfortable, not to be confused with wearing blousy coats and trousers.
-
Guest
The main point about bespoke clothing is that it fits - whether requested to be second skin or easy-fitting! Everything else is secondary; materials etc.. If you feel (or even look) uncomfortable in bespoke clothing, you are wasting your money.
NJS.
NJS.
-
Guest
I thought straitjackets had a different purpose than being worn by elegant men who want to move freely without the constant threat of a seam breaking or a button popping upon a sneeze, a healthy burst of laughter or a bend to pick up the handkerchief a lady accidentally (or purposefully) dropped on the floor... 
Costi
Costi
-
Guest
No one has ever played the handkerchief trick on me but a woman did once approach me at a railway station with a speck in her eye.........
NJS
NJS
-
Guest
........ but my coat was too tight and I couldn't get at my handkerchief................
NJS
NJS
-
Guest
Ha! Best laugh (thank goodness I'm not wearing Huntsman!) I've had all day.storeynicholas wrote:........ but my coat was too tight and I couldn't get at my handkerchief................
NJS
RWS
-
Guest
It's best to avoid all Italian bespoke clothing because it is simply too tight for the thinking man who wants to bend.
Best to go with a tailor who will give you an approximation of a suit which fits and into which we can grow with the passing years.
As to the Q of the original poster, the shoulders should not be tight, but quite wide ala the Anderson Sheppard style to give you that manly, military V look should you need to bend down to pick up the handerkerchief of some imaginary damsel or, more likely, want to tie your shoe.
You will also want a good bit of room in the shoulder blades so that you can move with casualness, full movement and English elan.
Best to go with a tailor who will give you an approximation of a suit which fits and into which we can grow with the passing years.
As to the Q of the original poster, the shoulders should not be tight, but quite wide ala the Anderson Sheppard style to give you that manly, military V look should you need to bend down to pick up the handerkerchief of some imaginary damsel or, more likely, want to tie your shoe.
You will also want a good bit of room in the shoulder blades so that you can move with casualness, full movement and English elan.
-
Guest
All purpose response today (see Cary Grant thread):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images ... 55&s=books
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images ... 55&s=books
-
- Information
-
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 47 guests