The London Lounge

I have noticed that in one of my bespoke jackets the shoulders are fine but my arm seems to protrude at the sleeve and it looks quite strange. I have no idea why! Is the armscye too high? Are the sleeves too tight (tbh the sleeves look in proportion)? They all look in proportion apart from that protruding arm which causes the whole jacket to look awful.

Any comments will be much appreciated.

Is it both arms or only one - if it's only one it might be because you have a pronounced drop on that shoulder which has not been accounted for in the cutting and ftting.
NJS

Well it seems to be both (one is a bit more though). There are also two lines from the shoulder going down to the armpit on one side. He was the first tailor I tried and he obviously is not that great but I am really interested in knowing why those mistakes arose.

It can also be a case of the shoulder being cut too small.

If the shoulder doesn't extend to or past the widest part of your upper arm, there will be an indentation just below the shoulder pad.

This is true. Or he might have just cut the arms too short (or fitted them at the wrong angle for the way your arms hang) and, possibly not have made a drop allowance on one side. As for the extra seam on one side - weird indeed!
Nicholas.

Gentlemen i will be uploading some images of the jacket in a couple of minutes.

Thanks gentlemen! Your opinion and knowledge is greatly appreciated.

Looks like this started out as a nice piece of West of England tweed and mop buttons. I am afraid that the garment looks as though it was made for someone else. It is too small across the shoulders and shoulder blades and the armholes are too small and it may, therefore, be irremediable. The stitching with West of England is correct but I should have gone for a non-contrasting colour. I think that, regretfully, one would have to say - start again - probably with someone else. Sorry.
Nicholas.

Thanks.

How about all those bunching lines at the back?

On reflexion, I think that the main problem here is that the arm holes are too small and that, with attention to those and altering the sleeves, accoringly, it might all fall into place in a passable way but I don't think, with respect, that this chap is going to win any cutting competitions!
best,
nicholas.

I take a different view. The shoulders look about 3/8" too broad, taking them in should result in a more natural shoulder and avoid the bagging under the shoulder seam.

As to the "bunching" in the back, it looks like that needs to be let out and relaxed a bit - while there is good drape in the chest, there is none in the back. I'll be that the jacket is constricting when you drive or bend over to tie your shoes.

When you try on a jacket, you need to move your arms around in a full range of motion. As a fitted garment, it will restrict movement at full extension but it should allow you to basically get there.

I will say this, one of the best things about a true bespoke process is that you can go back to your tailor and have the alterations done. Do not be angry, rather be patient and explain your views and desires. If the tailor doesn't seek to work it out with you, then you might move on to another. For the tailor, the alterations are a means of working out and making adjustments for a new garment.

Good luck,
DDM

On further reflexion and reading the immediately above, I retract my harsh comments.
Nicholas.