The Flap of Cloth Sewn Under the Collar

[Guest]

I have noticed that some of my suits have a flap of the suit cloth folded over and sewn under the collar on top of the collar melton. I have also noticed that other suits do not have this feature.

Does this method of finishing serve any purpose?

[Guest]

I have been wondering the same thing for a while tbh. I think the covered one is prettier but I have noticed that a lot of the tailors prefer to show the flap…

[Guest]

I have been wondering the same thing for a while tbh. I think the covered one is prettier but I have noticed that a lot of the tailors prefer to show the flap…

This is down to the collar construction but I'll let one of the tailors on here elaborate.....over to you gentlemen. Probably fair to say that the turnleaf construction is done by hand.

[Guest]

I have been wondering the same thing for a while tbh. I think the covered one is prettier but I have noticed that a lot of the tailors prefer to show the flap…

This is down to the collar construction but I'll let one of the tailors on here elaborate.....over to you gentlemen. Probably fair to say that the turnleaf construction is done by hand.

[Guest]

This is down to the collar construction but I'll let one of the tailors on here elaborate.....over to you gentlemen. Probably fair to say that the turnleaf construction is done by hand.

Yes, this haas been done by hand on my coats.

Questions:

1. Does it serve a purpose?

2. I have noticed that my Oxxford coats do not have this flap, but the collar is hand-sewn all around.

[Guest]

When done by hand it's most likely bespoke or had been altered.
On RTW and MTM the collar is most likely machine sewn.
But in bespoke the collar is usually fitted as well, so it's not cut after a computerized pattern, but adjusted on the customer. Therefore the collar is cut longer/ larger than necessary, resulting in this flap; Apart from this the major purpose would be avoiding the collar melton showing.




SG

[Guest]

In case you want to pop it?

[Guest]

this is just an alternate method of construction.