suit layers

[Guest]

hello. just a quick question from a newbie. In a bespoke suit is the floating canvas present in the main body of the jacket, the lapels and collars? Is anything else placed together with the canvas to make the suit even stronger..? Is the same type of canvas used for the main body, lapels and collars? thanks

[Guest]

anyone?

[Guest]

Hello!

Here a quick answer:

The reason why it's called floating is that the canvas is only attached to the front part through the padding of the lapels, the armholes and the front edges. Some tailors might stitch the chest welt pocket through the canvas!
Depending on the tailor there will be some extra chest piece for more structure and support of the shoulder area(see image). The chest piece canvas is often, but not necessarily, stronger than the one used for the front parts.
Here you can see one way to do the canvas:


As you can see, the canvas is smaller than the front part. There might be canvas in the under collar or not, depending on tailor and cloth.

Hope this was helpful!

SG

[Guest]

Thanks alot! This was very informative...This jacket seems to have two different canvases (one white and one beige/browny)...is there a reason for this? Or is the one in the lapel which is browny beige not canvas? Thanks

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102 ... cture3.jpg" border="0" alt="Photo Sharing and Video Hosting at Photobucket"></a>

[Guest]

please use the direct link then as this one isnt working

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102 ... cture3.jpg

[Guest]

Hello!

The one in the lapel is definitely canvas, as far as I can see a finer, lighter one(they come in different weights and stiffness).
The darker material of the padded under collar could be sort of felt.


SG

[Guest]

heres another one I just found of a different tailor..why felt though? does this look like felt to you too? it seems like canvas to me...

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102 ... /Aboyd.jpg

[Guest]

This is canvas, and already padded!
Most tailors use this kind of under collar for their first fittings. It's a sort of one size fits all collar. Most tailors use canvas and felt for the under collar, with the felt showing on the outside of the finished garment(just lift the collar of any ready to wear coat). In this picture the felt is probably underneath the canvas, attached with the stitches that can be seen!
Why felt? I guess because it is cheaper than the cloth and easier to shape!


SG

[Guest]

Would you say using fabric rather than felt is nicer? I think Kilgour use fabric and not felt? I have seen some good tailors’ work and they use felt and I doubt it’s a cost factor...maybe felt looks better to the eye when the lapel is lifted up.

[Guest]

I think that they are just two different kind of canvases...one being darker and stronger. Anyone have a definite answer?

[Guest]

Actually, an undercollar is usually made from felt and a specific type of linen, that is only used for collars. The reason is partly that the handpadded felt/linen undercollar behaves better and shapes better. In those pics, methinks that both are collarlinen, judging by the look of it.

As for Guest's original question: That could be a very very long answer. There are innumerous different types of canvass, some with camel hair, goats' hair or even horses tail hair woven into it. Each have their own different characteristics. The choice of which to use for the body canvass combined with chestpiece depends on what type of coat the customer wants, (Lots of drape/very clean, very very soft and slightly casual looking or stiffer and impeccably correct), and the type of cloth that is being used.

Also, the placement of the the canvass pieces can differ. Some coats have a body canvass that extends all along the armhole, behind the arm, up to the shoulder seem. This is quite a classic way of cutting canvass, and makes for a very nice and smooth blade. Also the way the upper chest is done can vary a lot. If someone has forward shoulders with the joint protruding, there might be a horizontal seem in the canvass, cut with hollowed lines so that space is created in the shoulder, at the place of the joint.

Generally, only two or three layers of canvassed are used though. How they are cut and from what material? You'll have to open different coats or see different pieces in a tailor's to know.


Martin Stall