custom v. bespoke

[Guest]

A new thread in the "Dressing Room" forum has left me confused. What is the distinction between a "custom" tailor and a "bespoke" tailor and why does it matter?

[Guest]

Strictly speaking, there is or should be no difference.

In fact, "custom" is sometimes used to refer to a level of service that is a little more personalized than pure off the rack, but doesn't involve much unique design. "Customized" might be the more correct word for this service, its weaselly meaninglessness often corresponding well to the product one gets at the end. "Made to measure" is another term that has come to mean this kind of treatment. It is basically a modified factory design, which can end up fitting quite well if the salesman asking for modifications knows how to work the system.

Bespoke (or "custom" or in English usage "made to measure") really means made for you, and nobody else. That implies a huge range of choice in fabric and style, of course, but also a pattern that is genuinely , uniquely yours and not a 42L with a slight right shoulder drop and a ticket pocket added.

[Guest]

I would say at least 20-30 years ago the American usage of custom tailor was equivalent to the British term, bespoke. Like a bespoke tailor, a custom tailor made the clothes from scratch; it was making a suit for an individual by an individual. It involved making and adjusting a pattern made specifically for the individual and fittings.

In the USA the term 'custom" began to get fuzy when made to measure (MTM) clothing became more popular and more prevalent. The term was appropriated by merchants who sought to pass-off their goods as bespoke. "Custom" began to be used for MTM and stock specials.

In essence, the term "custom" has been blurred to mean anything that is ordered to be made for a customer's order and is not ready to wear.

Due to this blurring of the term, many of the real bespoke tailors use the term bespoke rather than custom. Many of the Savile Row tailors call themselves "bespoke tailors" rather than "custom tailors."

[Guest]

In Canada and the US the term "bespoke" is not commonly used (although it is growing in popularity). "Custom" is used instead. Custom is not as specific a term as bespoke so you need to ask the shop what it means to them.