Double breasted jacket with one lapel without a buttonhole

What you always wanted to know about Elegance, but were afraid to ask!
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Guest

Fri Jul 20, 2007 4:06 am

Is a double breasted jacket with one lapel without a buttonhole a serious faux-paus or an acceptable personal twist?
Guest

Fri Jul 20, 2007 1:49 pm

I would say that it's an "acceptable, personal twist."

Brooks Bros. "house style" for DB in MTM is one buttonhole. (Of course, they'll make two if requested.)

The photo of George Cleverley on the firm's brochure shows the late GC with one buttohole.

I personally prefer two.

I think no buttonholes makes the coat look unfinished and cheap. Alan Bennett, the tailor, has told me that when he apprenticed at Kigour, French & Stanbury, he wore one of his first suits with pride before the late Fred Stanbury. It did not have a buttonhole. Mr. Stanbury like the suit, but he took his chalk out of his pocket and marked-off the buttonhole. He told young Mr. Bennett, "now, go back and put-in a proper buttonhole."

MES
Guest

Fri Jul 20, 2007 3:56 pm

That's interesting, because the default from Kilgour's Entry Level is now for no boutonnieres whatever. They'll do it, but you have to ask.

Also, the late Chipp in NY used to hate installing them. Too much risk, and they felt that you never used them so why bother. Not sure I agree, but there it is.
Guest

Fri Jul 20, 2007 4:26 pm

Anonymous wrote:That's interesting, because the default from Kilgour's Entry Level is now for no boutonnieres whatever. They'll do it, but you have to ask.

Also, the late Chipp in NY used to hate installing them. Too much risk, and they felt that you never used them so why bother. Not sure I agree, but there it is.
That might be to do with the fact that the workshop in China doesn't cut one unless you ask for it (as I found out when my sample arrived). Their primary customer base is the US and a lot of US custom manufacturers don't have a button-hole unless one is requested. This includes sham buttonholes at the cuff.
Guest

Fri Jul 20, 2007 4:39 pm

Two lapel buttonholes are common, they do it for balance.

Tom Brokaw wore quite a few DBs with tow buttonholes on the lapels while on NBC News.

My DBs have just one on the left lapel, which I like just fine. :)

Best Regards,

Cufflink79
Guest

Fri Jul 20, 2007 10:46 pm

Forget about it. No one will notice it.
Guest

Sun Jul 22, 2007 1:03 pm

What does it matter what those who don't notice miss? We certainly don't dress for them, if at all for other's sake...
C
Guest

Fri Jul 27, 2007 3:52 am

I think it is preferable, as the second buttonhole will never, ever be used.

Symmetry is not really an issue for me - I do not insist on a breast pocket on both sides, for example!

-Bird
Guest

Tue Jul 31, 2007 4:23 am

Anonymous wrote:What does it matter what those who don't notice miss? We certainly don't dress for them, if at all for other's sake...
C
I dress, for none other than myself. Save my upon my sweet mother's request. She happens to like sartorial elegance as well so I usually have no complaints. Every once in awhile I'll throw in a different pocket square or add a flower on my lapel to finish it off......
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