The London Lounge

Where is floating canvas used in the body of a jacket? Just in the front or should it also be used in the back of the jacket? I have just received my first tailored suit, which was measured at a shop locally, with the cutting and sewing done in Hong Kong. The back of the jacket is basically just the suit fabric and the lining--is this correct? The jacket is certainly comfortable and lightweight, but I am concerned about durability and longevity. Am I worrying needlessly?

Your first question should be 'do I like the suit?' If you do, who cares how it's made?

But yes, the construction used was the standard one.

It is not "standard", it is the only possible way to do it.

Anonymous wrote:It . . . is the only possible way to do it.

Unless we're to discuss those Kevlar-armored jobs that show up from time to time . . . .

RWS

Anonymous wrote: those Kevlar-armored jobs . . . .
RWS

- in which case durability of the suit in time is hardly an issue

C

And at times (summer jackets, for example) you will jackets only half-lined in the back.

Are you also asking how to determine if the canvas is in fact floating?

Yes, any additional information would be appreciated. I have read the explanation on the English Cut website on the difference between fused and floating canvas, and, as I understand it, you should feel a piece of cloth under the fabric which moves independently between the fabric and the lining.

If you doubt the quality of the workmanship on your suit, you should know that some tailors (hopefully not yours), although using a floating canvas construction to shape the chest, also apply fused interlining to the back of the cloth itself on the chest and/or on the lapels. To test for it try pinching the cloth (just the cloth, not the lining too) on the back (where the cloth is always bare) and then on the chest and lapels: if you feel the cloth is thicker and more "springy" than on the back, it means you have fused interlining. As for detecting the floating canvas, you got it right.
You might consider posting pictures of your suit to get more useful comments.

C

Hello!

Best thing to do is to check the lapels. There should be tiny little stitches(made by hand or a special machine) on the under-side.
They only make sense on floating canvas. If they miss, it's most likely fused.
To the point of durability: That depends mostly on how much you wear the suit and, of course on the quality of the fabric and lining. In most cases, fused or floating, the stiffening will last longer.


Hope I could help!

SG