Reducing drape - tailor question

What you always wanted to know about Elegance, but were afraid to ask!
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Guest

Sun Feb 11, 2007 5:45 pm

Is it easy to reduce fullness over the chest to make a more clean jacket front? What about chest pocket etc.?
Guest

Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:31 pm

Hello!

Technically speaking: No!
But it is possible. If the question was meant like: Can everyone do it: No! You will need a very good tailor!
We do that from time to time in our tailorshop, but it is one of the biggest alterations one can have. It depends on the cut of that jacket: In Germany one jacket half is made of 3 pieces, which makes changes easier. The traditional cut is of two pieces with a dart, that makes it a bit trickier. If you have to cut away a bit from the center edges, forget it.
1. Mark the area, where the fullness is too much
2. Remove the sleeves
3. Depending on the cut of the jacket, reduce the front part from the armhole down to the waist or enlarge the dart in same area.
4. You might have to give the armhole a new shape as well, but don't take away too much, otherwise the chest pocket will be too close to the armhole
4. In worst case you have to "lift" or "raise" the front part a bit at the shoulder to reduce length
5. In that case the collar is effected(too long) , causing more work.
6. measure the size of the new armhole, compare it with the sleeves, put them in.
7. If you still have a little bit too much fullness, use a heavy iron(anything around 5 to 7 kg will do the trick) to flatten the chest area. This only works on soft, woolen cloths and floating canvas.

So, after this, you might consider to get a new jacket instead, because counting the hours for this alteration( the outcome might turn out to be unsatisfying) you could be half way to it.

Hope I could help,


SG
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