The London Lounge

Different tailors apply different treatments.

Some use quite fine thread and minimize the space between the stiches.

Others allow much more space and a thicker spread.

Some pucker a bit; others are hardly noticeable.

What do we want to see in pick stiching and what does it depnd on?

It's a matter of individual taste.

Some people want bold stitches which can be seen from a block away. Others like a more subtle treatment that can only be discerned up close. I prefer the latter.

As for those who like bold pick stitches, I recall seeing pick stitching at the shoulder of a Ferragamo RTW suit! This is going over the top.

I like them to be pretty subdued, but I want them on every seam. I believe that they should be done in the normal thread without contrast.

Matt

A bigger stich saves time and work for the tailor.

But a bigger stich may also be more appropriate for a sports coat. Double pick stiching on the lapel and patch pockets is very nice indeed and artisanal looking.

I agree, no contrast color pick stiching. Yuck.

In Italy you can get hand stiching on every seam; including sleeve head, seam at back of coat, outside trouser seams, etc.

Italy's the only place that you can still get a completely hand stiched coat; It's great but is even nicer when done with a delicate, understated touch.